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Just a thought, have been looking at this myself, why not fit a second alternator to power the auxillaries, brackets and belts are available, and it bolts on the aircon mounts at the top, out of harms way....

Not sure on the head skim etc, but if you pop into your local factors, i think its Mill auto parts down your way, they may be able to tell you, or be able to contact a "friendly" garage who can advise on who they use. Or try Federation of engine remanufacturers for any local members who can...

get the comp tested, although you have done the head , gasket and all, doesnt mean to say that its not at fault again, had water blowing past my expansion tank cap, and that was the start of it, did you replace thermostat too.. I know its not what you want to hear, but do get it checked....

sounds airlocked, did you top up thru the header tank or the top filler plug (on top of thermostat), was the heater control set to hot??.. I had same thing on mine, cured it by jacking front up a little, or parking front end up a slope, topping up, running engine for 10-15 mins, let it go...

I used a motaquip one, mainly coz i work for a factors and it was cheaper. but no probs with it at all, they all have to manufactured to a tolerance of +/- 0.5% or thereabouts maybe less, so all should be on a par, but AE/Payen/BGI are pretty good too....

Take it to a big carpark, and do tight turn (as tight as you can with a landy anyway) both left and right, should give an indication which cv is breaking up under load...

I put the blanking plate on and bolted the egr back up to it, at least then if mr mot tester looks to see if its there, it is, although not actually doing anything....

Having just done the rod ends on mine, as long as the overall length between the centres of the rod ends is right, i believe the linkage can go either way round, as long as the joints are the right way up. Although i feel sure someone will put me right on this..

With ref to the brake pad, with or without wire, you could go for the wired option if your not sure, only be pence in the cost, or should be, if you dont need the wire, cut it off, wont harm the pads...

They do come as a seperate kit, and definately do not have to take caliper off to do this. There are a couple of different patterns of pads though so if your local motor factors is nearby, or if you have got access to another vehicle, take an old pad with you. Simples....

after reading a previous thread about calipers etc on tdi300 discos was conflicting advice on size of socket to undo the star headed bolt. but sorted today by borrow both sizes quoted. Its definately 13mm multihex socket. Although i may at some stage replace the bolts with a more usual...

Could be anything, drivebelt(fanbelt) tensioner, do you have air con? if so is it on at the time, could be the tensioner on that or the compressor.. maybe wheel bearings or tyre noise.... the list of possibilities could go on!!

As to the misfore, id start with the plugs, and work back from there, when were thay last changed cleaned or gapped? With that rad, it is possible to recore, BUT, from i found when i had mine done, a recore was only a couple of quid cheaper than getting a new rad, shop around a little..

As both the rear calipers on my trusty disco are seized rock solid, even bent the ear on the pads trying to pry them out. I have bought a couple of new/recond calipers from work to replace them with. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, have noticed the thread about the socket size, so...

i took mine for mot with mud tyres on, and it passed, as long as its got the required minimum depth etc etc and the tyres have all the right speed ratings, etc you should be ok

i get them same thing when i click on my profile it shows user name as similar to mine, and some of the details that i did input, like current vehicle and dream vehicle, but shows posts as 8, and not been active since 2009. think im up to 22 posts now, and im still active, unlike my disco...

Replaced all four track rod ends, and hopefully set it back up again, just waiting on the new steering damper now !!

if its still loosing water, could be our old friend the "P" gasket, are there water/rust stains behind the waterpump down towards the pas pump...

one end should of had a left handed thread on the track rod end, so when turning the bar the overall length should either get shorter or longer

If it helps, I bought one a few years ago from Bearmach, in Cardiff, may be worth checking them out!!