Search results

That's a common area of rust. On the offside it would be near the battery carrier to the front or servo near the rear. So that rust could be within 300mm of those items. I don't think there is anything on the near side that would be affected. YRM has panels for that repair or you could patch...

Just refil the same cartridge / can.

Limitation is the minimum height of 195mm. The CTJ3000G goes down to 120mm so you can use it for saloon cars. Very good jack I find.

It looks fine to me. Install it and if there are no cracks it will hold the pressure.

I don't think that will remove the crank shaft sprocket to do the oil seal. Those bolts can be obtained as an add on.

If you just bought a 300Tdi, the timing will need checking along with the belt just for peace of mind. The timing appears to be the only thing you haven't checked.

The brake hose clamps will prevent the loss of diesel. These are readily available.

The matrix may need cleaning out. Connect the matrix with a hose and flush through in the reverse direction of flow to clear any sludge out. You will be amazed how much sludge builds up. Refill and then follow the bleeding process. This may help.

Owning a Land Rover and not being mechanically minded was your first major mistake. If you will not make the effort you have to pay the price. The only control you have is the labour element. Wheel bearings and brakes are relatively easy to fix. Remember, when one side goes you should always...

A long 15mm spanner releases the belt tension which enables you to slip the belt off. Do the same and slip the belt on and release the automatic tensioner. Maybe 30 seconds to release the belt and 2 minutes to route the belt and refit on the tensioner. Hopefully you made a note of the route...

Try soaking the injector in a cleaner such as petrol. It might clear it. However, replacement injectors for the 300Tdi is relatively cheap. New they are £65 and second hand, can be bought for £25.

Agree with all of the above but do not spool up the turbo unless you are certain oil is getting to the bearings. More likely it is the switch that is defective. If the oil pump was not generating enough pressure you would get rumbling from the big end bearings when under load.

Thinking about it, traction control comes in when 1 or more wheels start to slip. In this case there is no drive so TC will not engage but the ecu is showing a fault. This will probably clear where drive has been restored and the ABS sensor has been replaced.

If it is written off, buy it back and do the repairs. You should be able to do most of the repairs yourself. Should make a nice project.:)

You have not mentioned you have tried the difflock. With the CV joint damaged, you need to lock the centre differential to get drive (through the rear axle). The ABS sensor may also be damaged but that may only be apparent when the fault codes are reset after repairing the damage. To reset you...

Definitely a problem on the front axle. CV joint most likely followed by half shaft and differential. It is an easy fix if you can do some mechanics.:)

Early swivels (Discovery 1)need hypoid oil to lubricate the upper bush. I tend to use both, i.e. top up with hypoid oil. However, CV joints must be packed with grease.

Irwin extractors are useful but you may need some heat as well.

you may find this useful as pictures are very helpful Difflock :: View topic - tbox selector with pics

Grit in the bearings is going to wear them very quickly. Clean and repack with grease or replace them as soon as possible. Have you checked there is no residual grit that has now bed into the new pads?