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As much as I can admire the level of work that's clearly gone into that, I have to say that apart from being something different, it doesn't make sense to supercharge a diesel engine. Turbochargers provide on demand power, since the boost pressures are directly related to engine load...

Well I won't mind coming to help, but like I say, will be a few weeks. So if you don't get a more immediate offer, I'll help (if you want) and show a few things too. (again if you want)

I would be happy to help you, but am quite busy for the next couple of weeks. How desperate is it?

I remember seeing that for sale for some time. I was contemplating going to have a look at it actually. Looks to have had a bit of a poor paint job though?

Has it been misfiring? Check to see if there's oil in the ECU plug under the seat. Is the turbo boosting okay? You may need to get a diagnostic machine plugged in to see if there's a fault, and how the turbo's doing. It could be a stuck turbo actuator if it's not boosting well.

The P38 wasn't built, or even designed in 1988! Is it a P38 with a BMW 6 pot diesel, or is it a Range Rover Classic with a converted TDi?

Yes. I fitted 5 of that size in my dad's Disco with the rear seats down and other off-road clobber.

Hideously overpriced. But catastrophically cool! :cool:

It won't be the clutch, it's an engine related problem. Has the MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor been changed recently?

As above really, they look fine to me. Just check for drips down the hub to see if it gets any worse. Once they're scored slightly they all get grubby like that. The grub actually seals them up from leaking any further :D

Oh and you'll also need to replace the timing belt because it will be contaminated. If it's as bad as you're saying it could go any moment so I'd say stop using it until it's fixed.

Sounds to me like 2 un-related problems. The blue smoke will either be piston rings or valve stem seals/guides. If you have a diesel compression tester, or have access to one, you could test this with some machine oil to see if the pressure drops before and after some oil is entered into the...

Why have you dug up an ancient, and largely un-related thread? Post a request in the parts section. It doesn't have to be from an MPI, it just needs to be from another 90 (assuming you haven't retrofitted it into a 110) with the right ratio and splines.

Brilliant tools, just to concur with that what has been said. I've used them plenty of times, especially on nasty old brake pipe unions!

I think unless it's specifically commercial it isn't. Might be wrong though

I started modifying an old salvaged loom by doing what was suggested before, adding lengths of wire onto the existing (salvaged) loom. I was planning on relocating the ECU into a box I would have located on the side of the van panel, just behind the driver's seat. When the new loom was ready, I...

Yep. And I don't know of any type approved detachable towbar on the market :( So if you own a post 98 vehicle and want to off-road without the towbar acting like a plough, yet still want to tow things on-road, you're a bit f**cked really. Unless you fancy physically fitting and then unfitting...

Not always going to give you an answer though. If a gasket has failed between a cylinder and a water gallery (for example) and had been 'blown open' all a tightening of the head will do is compress it down in that state, it won't always close an open gap..... if that makes sense.

Beat me to it :D

Well, if it's an extended prop, you would assume that it'd also be wide angle yoke on the UJs. So check that, or take a photo and post it up.