track rod end

just changed one, what a nightmare , done loads before on other cars but this is something different, usualy u undo a nut a couple of turns seperate the ball and unscew be hand, not so on the freelander, undo pinch bolt, that broke, so chisel in slot to open, seperate ball easy then try to unscrew, now on most cars easy but on thease the threads are open to all road crap so either soak with wd or heat up,try to remove really stiff mole grips anything to try to turn it, eventualy 2hours later off, screw in new one put back easy. then u realise that if u have not got it dead in the same position although u marked it and counted turns that to track it up there is another pinch bolt on the steering rack locking the adjuster,now if u try to undo that and it breaks u are going to have to drill it out and put a bolt and nut on it, now that would be hard . i left mine alone,Now if its out when i take it for tracking they might break the bolt to adjust it but the adjuster will not be locked, so i am goimg to ask how much out and which way, take it home seperate ball joint and adjust by screwing track rod in or out.

i did mine last month, they came off relatively easy but even with lots of heat i couldn't budge the drivers side adjuster.

my steering wheel isn't central now as they could only track on the passenger side one

i'll take off the wheel and put it back in the centre position.

Couple of big pairs of stilsons usually works after a good soaking. Don't like using too much heat on steering parts as you don't know what's happening to the metal.

I normally undo both pinch bolts one one side. One will always turn easier than the other, normally the inner. Then again i can always borrow 4 wheel aligner so i dont have to worry about counting threads

Bit of a thread revival! But ive just changed the track rod ends on my freelander 1, but even when the pinch screw is massively tightened it still spins, obviously not going anywhere but my worry is it could be pulled off the threads, should it be like this or have i maybe got the wrong part? Cheers!

Jbridges522 said:

Bit of a thread revival! But ive just changed the track rod ends on my freelander 1, but even when the pinch screw is massively tightened it still spins, obviously not going anywhere but my worry is it could be pulled off the threads, should it be like this or have i maybe got the wrong part? Cheers!

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You mean the taper isn't locking in the steering arm on the strut?

Nodge68 said:

You mean the taper isn't locking in the steering arm on the strut?

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Basically even when everything is tightened up i can still spin the track rod end on the threaded bar. It cant unscrew cause its bolted to the strut but just worried it should be tighter on the threaded bar.

thanks

Just wondering if anyone has done the same an experienced the same

Jbridges522 said:

Basically even when everything is tightened up i can still spin the track rod end on the threaded bar.

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The track rod end locking bolt, should lock the thread solid. If it can't be locked solid, then although it can't unscrew, the thread will fret and eventually fail. There's obviously an issue, which needs sorting.

You could just replace the whole track rod, complete with correctly fitting track rod end. The whole assembly used to be available for about £30 from Advanced Factors in Southampton, which is my go to place for LR parts.

Nodge68 said:

The track rod end locking bolt, should lock the thread solid. If it can't be locked solid, then although it can't unscrew, the thread will fret and eventually fail. There's obviously an issue, which needs sorting.

You could just replace the whole track rod, complete with correctly fitting track rod end. The whole assembly used to be available for about £30 from Advanced Factors in Southampton, which is my go to place for LR parts.

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Thanks very much, I thought as much tbh, ill have a look and see

Thought I would resurrect this thread rather than start a new one.

Failed MOT ( amongst other things ) on NS track rod end.
Easy Peasy to change, undid pinch bolt, nut came straight off ball joint, couple of taps and ball joint came out.
Chucked new one on ( counted threads so it will be close but will need tracking doing).

Then I thought should I do the other one...already have part ...but its cold and wet and doesn't need it doing for its MOT so I could do it later....( I know...I'm bad )

Had a quick look to see if its ok, ball joint looked in good condition.....then out of the corner of my eye noticed pinch bolt had been sheared off......well that aint getting tracked...

Needless to say when I tried to undo the ball joint nut the whole bloody thing spins...aaaaarrrgggghh !

Kevm said:

Needless to say when I tried to undo the ball joint nut the whole bloody thing spins...aaaaarrrgggghh !

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Just replace the whole track rod. They're not expensive, and readily available from good LR parts suppliers.

Kevm said:

Needless to say when I tried to undo the ball joint nut the whole bloody thing spins...aaaaarrrgggghh

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Use a G clamp to force the taper into the strut hole. Clamp between flat base (actually at the top!) of the joint and the strut, tighten, remove nut.

andyfreelandy said:

Use a G clamp to force the taper into the strut hole. Clamp between flat base (actually at the top!) of the joint and the strut, tighten, remove nut.

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Do this.

Somehow I misunderstood the issue.

Used to put a jack under them, but the Freelander has them upside down!!

Used nut splitter to remove nut....now ball joint out but difficult to get it off the rod.

As mention the pinch bolt has had its head snapped off....some time ago looking at rust.

Think I have wedged it open a bit but difficult as bolt still in it also very difficult to get any leverage on it to turn it.

Going to have another go at it tomorrow.....probably get dremel out and just have at it....

Kevm said:

Going to have another go at it tomorrow.....probably get dremel out and just have at it..

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Just order a replacement from AF.
You'll have it in a couple of days. https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/qfk000080-part-of-ta2702-delphi-track-rod-end-inner-left-664-p.asp

Found how to get easy leverage on the Track Rod End when rusted on.
Stick bar through and turn.....easy peasy....

You're actually using that ball joint splitter upside down, the moving part is meant to act on the top of the pin to push it out of the taper seat.

Jayridium said:

You're actually using that ball joint splitter upside down,

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I guess it’s the right way up for what he was using it for, not breaking ball joint tapers..

J