EAS Mind of its own

sandyt · Jun 18, 2013

wammers said:
Think that maybe a good idea if they are that bad. I used those teeth flossing brushes you can get with contact cleaner for cleaning out the female connectors.

Hope you are not admitting that your teeth are in a glass by your bed and this was the only use for said brushes

Datatek · Jun 18, 2013

Jelleyman said:
ok guys after a weeks holiday I have now had a look at this tonight and believe the white connector is where the problem lies. Taking it apart it was badly corroded but using the wifes nail file I was able to clean the pins but can't get into the holes with anything. So with the car running and at normal height if I move the white plug I can make it rise, so this isn't good. Should I just cut the blocks off and crimp on some connectors to make the joins?

Cheers

Solder and heat shrink tube would be better than crimps. If you use crimps fill the ends with silicon or the will rot inside.

wammers · Jun 18, 2013

sandyt said:
Hope you are not admitting that your teeth are in a glass by your bed and this was the only use for said brushes

Nope all my teeth are firmly positioned in their correct position. But did find my flossing brushes ideal for cleaning electrical connectors.

tomcatrr · Jun 20, 2013

wammers said:
Did you read the bit in the "How To" about the white connector at passenger side?

Tanks @wammers and others, I have be "fighting" with this issue since I bought it 5 years ago!
(Also try with others used drive pack.... working in others RR)....

Since "we" have Left and Right Hand drive..., can you please share a photo, where is this infamous white connector!
(just the zone where he is).

Thanks

wammers · Jun 20, 2013

RHD. L/H side of passenger foot well at base of A post. The post that the door is hinged to. Plastic trim held by one central screw. Remove that two white plugs behind it the larger one is the one you are looking for. But clean both if they are corroded. Same place on LHD as far as i know. But it would be driver foot well.

Jelleyman · Jul 7, 2013

Hi Guys,
I eventually got round to cutting out the white plug and did solder and heat shrink. drove for about 3 miles just as I thought i'd fixed it on comes the light on the dash and then up to full height. Checked the eas software and no codes so any suggestions on what to do next??
Cheers
Phil

wammers · Jul 7, 2013

Jelleyman said:
Hi Guys,
I eventually got round to cutting out the white plug and did solder and heat shrink. drove for about 3 miles just as I thought i'd fixed it on comes the light on the dash and then up to full height. Checked the eas software and no codes so any suggestions on what to do next??
Cheers
Phil

Selector switch.

Datatek · Jul 8, 2013

Jelleyman said:
Hi Guys,
I eventually got round to cutting out the white plug and did solder and heat shrink. drove for about 3 miles just as I thought i'd fixed it on comes the light on the dash and then up to full height. Checked the eas software and no codes so any suggestions on what to do next??
Cheers
Phil

Driver pack. Leave the lid off the EAS box for a bit and see if it affects it. Since I put cooling holes in the lid of mine I've had no more problems, could be coinicidence of course but it's just done a 1065 mile round trip to the UK without faulting.

p38 prius lol · Jul 8, 2013

It was the driver pack on both my late thor p8's

Datatek · Jul 8, 2013

p38 prius lol said:
It was the driver pack on both my late thor p8's

I think it's the electrolytic capacitors in the driver pack that fail, they don't have a very good heat tolerance rating, reducing the temperature in the box may improve things for a while.

Jelleyman · Jul 8, 2013

i'll try it without the lid on to see how it goes, if not i presume the driver pack is the next thing to replace? If so is that the all the kit in the EAS box in the engine bay?

Cheers
Phil

tomcatrr · Jul 8, 2013

Datatek said:
Driver pack. Leave the lid off the EAS box for a bit and see if it affects it. Since I put cooling holes in the lid of mine I've had no more problems, could be coincidence of course but it's just done a 1065 mile round trip to the UK without faulting.

Datatek, it could be also coincidence, but, since I remove the "rubber side" of the hood/bonnet, the problem is "gone"...

Datatek · Jul 8, 2013

Jelleyman said:
i'll try it without the lid on to see how it goes, if not i presume the driver pack is the next thing to replace? If so is that the all the kit in the EAS box in the engine bay?

Cheers
Phil

The driver pack is bolted to the side of the valve block in the EAS box next to the compressor. Worth cleaning the connectors before you replace it.

Jelleyman · Jul 8, 2013

ok connectors cleaned will check tomorrow. On another note the pump was hot to touch is this normal?

Cheers
Phil

wammers · Jul 8, 2013

Jelleyman said:
ok connectors cleaned will check tomorrow. On another note the pump was hot to touch is this normal?

Cheers
Phil

Is it servicing a leak?

p38 prius lol · Jul 8, 2013

none of my 95 -99 gems p38's have had any driver pack issues
in fact I fixed both my later thor p38's by swapping the driver packs from my old thor p38's
Just to have proof positive I fitted the faulty driver packs from the thor RR's to the gems ones and the random suspension faults moved with them

Jelleyman · Jul 8, 2013

Wammers, no leaks that I know of, I get no sagging or dropping over night. Have to hunt for a drivers pack I think

wammers · Jul 8, 2013

Jelleyman said:
Wammers, no leaks that I know of, I get no sagging or dropping over night. Have to hunt for a drivers pack I think

Driver can cause problems if it's starts doing it's own thing without signals from ECU that's for sure. It can allegedly cause pressure switch faults which it has no connection to, so it is very clever. Mine used to jump from standard to high on occasion randomly. And even go up to high overnight. Cleaning white plug cured that, it has never happened since. So there are several possible causes. It is not always the driver pack. It's worth trying everything else before spending that sort of money.

Datatek · Jul 9, 2013

wammers said:
driver can cause problems if it's starts doing it's own thing without signals from ecu that's for sure. It can allegedly cause pressure switch faults which it has no connection to, so it is very clever. Mine used to jump from standard to high on occasion randomly. And even go up to high overnight. Cleaning white plug cured that, it has never happened since. So there are several possible causes. It is not always the driver pack. It's worth trying everything else before spending that sort of money.

+1

Datatek · Jul 9, 2013

Jelleyman said:
ok connectors cleaned will check tomorrow. On another note the pump was hot to touch is this normal?

Cheers
Phil

If the compressor has been working it will get hot, up to 120C

However, as Wammers said, unless there is a leak it should only run intermittantly.

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