OK....
The short story is that its fixed. The long story is that it wasn't totally straightforward.
Stripping the door panel and trim
The spire clips were awkward to get out and I broke one.
On the door outside there is a rubber seal between the plastic panel and the metal door. It helps to take this off first as it allows better access to level the spire clips out.
It is helpful to remove the window seal completely - a couple of bolts, one at each end hold it in place. This allows better visual access to stuff you need to do and makes getting the plastic interior trim off easier.
Behind the panel there is a foam plastic sheet, which is held on in my case by a bead of tacky stuff. Carefully prise this off so you can fold the thing down.
Removing the window
..is nigh impossible unless the window is halfway down...
...Unless you loosen the motor assembly bolts, partially withdraw the motor and cut the Bowden cables with bolt cutters. A second pair of hands is helpful - or chock the window.
Then, after taking the screen heater connectors off, you can finally get a socket head onto the dreadfully corroded clamp bolts...
.. and then in my case there was a spire clip/cable the holding the heater wires to the right hand window clamp. Since the new regulator was different, we cut this one away.
Unscrewing the bolts on the rails - two nuts at top, one be at the base of each, enables everything to be removed except the cable to the motor is a pain to get off as the connector has a lock and is tight.
Now for some interesting stuff.
Problems with the replacement regulator
Having got the old one out it was apparent that the
new one was not the same in some important respects.
- The window clamps were pressed steel, not mezac castings.
- The rails were a bit different
- The motor socket was under the motor instead of above it.
- it did not include the spacer studs for the lower bolts - these were retained from the old regulator assembly: Put them into the new one to the same depth as they were.
In the end the third point was the worst, because the wiring loom wouldn't reach the socket without removing two locating clips, turning one at the top round, and replacing the one nearest the motor with a tie wrap.
The new window clamps had no way to tie the window heater wires to the clamp, until I felt a little lug at the base - there was just room to get a little thin tie wrap round this lug and hold the heater wires firmly to it.
Setting up the window
We spent a long time with the bolts part loose getting the window in the correct place in the clamps and the clamp guide rails in the right place.
The trick is roughly as follows, bearing in mind you need the tailgate closed before the damned window will operate fully!! A friend is also almost mandatory.
(i) Get the clamps about halfway down somehow. Drop the window carefully into the clamps and centralise it roughly by eye. Not having the sealing strip around the window base helps enormously here.
(ii) Shut tailgate and close the window. If the auto-zeroing thing is all out, try lowering window and holding button down for 5 seconds, then switching off and on on the ignition and running the window up and holding it at the top for 5 seconds. Once window is fully closed, check lateral alignment, and the drop the window to 50% and realign window laterally before tightening the clamps.
(iii) Once in correct lateral alignment fully tighten the top bolts on the slider rails and then lower the window fully. Then tighten the lower bolts on the slider rails.
Reassembly
Is the reverse of disassembly.
Refit the foam plastic curtain thing using the original sticky gunk
Fit the sealing strip to the plastic panel outer edge and hang the panel on the top clips and tap the spire clips back into place.
Refit the 4 screws at the panel base.
Refit the window seal - this is a fiddle and best done with the window fully down.
Now check the rear wiper and washer work with the window fully up, and that the drop down works when you open the tailgate. If anything isn't quite right I think that the lower and hold, raise and hold sequence on the console switch will sort it.
AND THAT'S IT!!
Damned window even winds down on the remote locking fob if you hold the unlock button down. Can't get it to go back up mind you ;-)
