Rear window doesn't work

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S

Sleves

New Member
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7
Just noticed that the offside rear window has stopped working on my TD4.

All the others - which get regular use - are working fine. This one is used rarely. I've taken the door panel off and I'm definitely getting +/-12V to the motor(?) - the thing with the red and blue wires to it anyway - when the switch is pressed.

No sounds are heard when the switch is pressed and so I'm guessing the motor? Any clues as to how do you get at it and ideas for fixing the problem?

Cheers
 
If it's a 3 door check micro-switch at base of C-Post behind trim panel, if not check across poz and neg ( not to body when on neg.)
 
Sorry, probably didn't make that clear - it is the offside rear door window on a 5-door - not the boot window.

Not sure what you mean by check across +ve/-ve. If I stick a multimeter across the connector with the red and blue wires it shows +12v or -12v depending on which side of the rocker switch is pressed.

The whole unit seems to be sat inside the door skin and attached with two bolts - if I undo the bolts can I get the unit out of the bottom? How is the window attached to the unit?

Cheers
 
I've got exactly the same problem... I've not had the trim off mine yet, but I was guessing a loose connection.

At least this time it's stuck "up"... last year the cable guide broke on the same windoe with the window right down just as a thunderstorm started... managed to get it back up but ended up soaked to the skin!
 
Sleves said:
Sorry, probably didn't make that clear - it is the offside rear door window on a 5-door - not the boot window.

Not sure what you mean by check across +ve/-ve. If I stick a multimeter across the connector with the red and blue wires it shows +12v or -12v depending on which side of the rocker switch is pressed.

The whole unit seems to be sat inside the door skin and attached with two bolts - if I undo the bolts can I get the unit out of the bottom? How is the window attached to the unit?

Cheers
Click to expand...

You need to get the window down to remove the glass... it's connected by two clamps. It's a bit awkward getting it out, but you should manage it after a bit of fiddling. Getting the window down in the first place seems to be the first problem...
 
Your problem does sound electrical possibly with the switch.

Its better then the problem i have just fixed.

My wifes TD4 5 door had the horrible grinding sound from the drivers window on wind down, i dismantled it to find the shorter of the 2 cables coming apart, i fixed it with a bike brake cable but what a ball ache of a job.
 
It's definitely the motor... switches both work fine, over 12V at the terminals.

Water present on the terminals on mine.

I'll strip mine out this weekend and see if it can be fixed, but as with most things on a Landy I doubt it's waterproof! :(
 
So do I have to be able to wind the window down before removing the motor or can it be removed with the window up?
 
yeah, you need to get the window down to get to the bolts that hold it to the regulator, i just cut the cables if I'm replacing the regulator
 
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