Davies Craig EWP - FINALLY SORTED!!!

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WLJayne

Well-Known Member
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Derpyshurr
Hey guys,

Well looks like I can write the final chapter of the EWP saga now :)! This morning DD and I calibrated the temp sensor - we ended up soldering two 20k resistors in. This brought the accuracy of the sensor to within a few degrees of actual measured temp.

I then did a 100 mile round trip and it didn't miss a beat once, the needle did not budge one iota and the cabin heater was hot enough to fire clay in. In fact it was so hot I had to turn it to the halfway mark to get a comfortable ambient temperature even with the blowers off!

The target temp is set to 80 degrees on the controller which means that the actual coolant temperature stay at about 84 degrees which is perfect. I can go hotter if I want now but I'm happy with it now.

So I can now say that it's doing its job and boy it's good!! Tomorrow I will be able to see how warming up from cold has been affected - if it's still a bit slow I will fit an small auxillary heater pump but I suspect it will be fine. As long as the EWP is in continuous run mode (which it always is now once it has warmed up) then the heater gets plenty of hot water.

At the moment we have no plans to wire a fan up to the controller as it seems to be doing its job just fine without it but we'll see how it copes when next summer comes and we can always fit one if needed - the ECU will always kick the fans in at 104 degrees anyway so it's no biggy.

I'm dead chuffed! Thanks to all of you who offered advice, support and ideas. Especially huge thanks go to DD, I just couldn't have done this without him and he's been super cool about it all.

:D.
 
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Ace! glad it is all settled. All we need now is a "how to" ;) or a "how not to". I am glad that my analysis has been proved to be correct, but you had the hard work & stamina to make it happen.

:praise:
 
Have been following (the bits I understand at least) on your other thread, congrats on getting it sorted.

Any idea why it had to be modified to be accurate? Shouldn't it have been accurate out of the box?
 
Any idea why it had to be modified to be accurate? Shouldn't it have been accurate out of the box?

Indeed it should, however Davies Craig are not a big company and buying one of these is not the same as buying a new stereo from Halfrauds - it's still new technology and you have to think for yosuelf a bit. Or alot, in this case.

I have fed back to them about it, and they seem like the sort of guys who appreciate people responding with their experiences so they can make it a better product :).
 
I tried to keep up with it all but most of it went over my head a bit.

glad that your all sorted now. :5bcheers2:
 
I've loved your thread, it's nice to get your teeth into something. The one question I've got to ask, what would this cost, now that you've been the guinea pig?

:behindsofa:
 
Well done
1sm060respekt.gif
 
Thanks for all the congrats guys, nice to see people have been interested :).

The one question I've got to ask, what would this cost, now that you've been the guinea pig?

Well, at a rough estimate here it is - assuming you fit it yourself.

MAW Solutions:

EWP + Controller combo - £270

Car Builder Solutions:

Universal Modular Hose Tail 15mm (UCH15) - £6
32mm Universal Modular T Outlet (UCT32) - £8.40
Hose Clip 13 - 20mm (H13ZN) x 3 - £1.50
Black Nylon Equal T 15mm (TEE15) - £4.20

Paddock Spares:
Top radiator hose PCH117860 (pre-PRT style) - £13.96
Bottom radiator hose PCH116360 (pre-PRT style)- £9.48
Metal coolant rail PEP102160L - £35.32
Heater inlet hose PCH115070 - £13.44
Heater outlet hose PCH114900 - £14.20

Ebay:

16mm 5/8" CAR HEATER & WATER COOLANT HOSE PIPE 1 METRE - £7.40
Infrared Thermometer Gun - £16.00

PROJECT GRAND TOTAL (Excl P&P): £399.90

Seems like alot, but I really am confident that HGF will be a very unlikely event now. The bits from paddock are optional but almost every petrol Freelander now has manky hosework after 6 years or more. You don't want to be chasing leaks around your system after you've installed and EWP.

Installing the pump itself isn't hard - running wires through the bulkhead is tricky and requires some finesse but it's worth it to tuck the controller neatly away in the driver cubby. It looks factory fitted :).

Will.
 
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Good work Will, and DD too. It's so gratifying to tackle and solve a problem, especially as you were at your wits end on occasion......... but you saw it through. I tip my cap to you two!

:clap2:
 
Thanks man, I just really hope this now solves the issue with the engine. You've got your steel dowerls which help prevent head travel, your MLS which is just more durable in general and now the EWP should take care of cavitation and heat soak. If that doesn't solve it then there really is no saving the K series :eek:.

But as mine is now at 120k with only one HGF that I know of I'd say that's pretty good going :).
 
Ok here are the results of the warm up trial :).

Now before we fixed the sensor I would do my normal route and within two minutes the controller would give me the "not hot enough yet" fault (i.e. the controller is reading that after 2 mins the temp is stil 30 degrees below set point.) Then the heater would take ages to get warm and then it would be patchy.

No such trouble today, even with a busy junction and two sets of lights I didn't get the fault. The needle to to half way at abpout 4-5 mins, so I would say you're looking at 2-3 mins if you start on a quiet road with no lights. Also, the heater got kinda warm while the needle was creeping up but the second that the pump went to continuous run mode I got a big hit of hot air and it stayed hot.

So I'm going to look into the EBP now as it's clear that the heater will become very quick with the edition of the auxilliary pump :).

Fantastic results all round!

We is waiting for the VCU, rear diff mounts and cracked chassis now, are we? .

Yep that's about it, already done the centre diff mount but at least we know all that needs to be seen to so it won't take me by surprise. Surely after this I must have dealt with nearly every common fault :eek:?

Will.
 
Thanks for all the congrats guys, nice to see people have been interested :).



Well, at a rough estimate here it is - assuming you fit it yourself.

MAW Solutions:

EWP + Controller combo - £270

Car Builder Solutions:

Universal Modular Hose Tail 15mm (UCH15) - £6
32mm Universal Modular T Outlet (UCT32) - £8.40
Hose Clip 13 - 20mm (H13ZN) x 3 - £1.50
Black Nylon Equal T 15mm (TEE15) - £4.20

Paddock Spares:
Top radiator hose PCH117860 (pre-PRT style) - £13.96
Bottom radiator hose PCH116360 (pre-PRT style)- £9.48
Metal coolant rail PEP102160L - £35.32
Heater inlet hose PCH115070 - £13.44
Heater outlet hose PCH114900 - £14.20

Ebay:

16mm 5/8" CAR HEATER & WATER COOLANT HOSE PIPE 1 METRE - £7.40
Infrared Thermometer Gun - £16.00

PROJECT GRAND TOTAL (Excl P&P): £399.90

Seems like alot, but I really am confident that HGF will be a very unlikely event now. The bits from paddock are optional but almost every petrol Freelander now has manky hosework after 6 years or more. You don't want to be chasing leaks around your system after you've installed and EWP.

Installing the pump itself isn't hard - running wires through the bulkhead is tricky and requires some finesse but it's worth it to tuck the controller neatly away in the driver cubby. It looks factory fitted :).

Will.

Ahem! You forgot water pump and cambelt change cos you have to cut the pump impeller off:D
Oh and me I'm priceless;)


DD
 
Ace! glad it is all settled. All we need now is a "how to" ;) or a "how not to". I am glad that my analysis has been proved to be correct, but you had the hard work & stamina to make it happen.

:praise:

How too? This was all your idea! You've got a lot to answer for;) sleepless nights! Crying into beer! :D think I'll recommend an electric turbo to someone!!!


DD
 
Ah yes cambelt and pump!

We went to Bolsover for a halloween spook-tour tonight and it was fine the whole way and back. Nice and toasty! Still think I need that EBP though takes ages to get hot air.

Will.
 
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