discovery engine and gear box in ex mod s3

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Stuartf32

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I'm looking at putting a discovery engine and gear box into a ex mod 109 and running with full time 4 x 4 , any helpful advise

Looking at other threads it seem the 200 tdi will fit straight in on to the s3 gear box but I'm a 5th gear .

Is it advisable to change out the series gear box and transmission to get full time 4 x 4

? Any ideas ?
Stuart
 
forget the disco gearbox unless you want the gearstick under your elbow, the bellhousing is way longer than a Series, even a 90 "longstick" LT77 gearbox is longer than a Series gearbox but those will fit
 
I'm doing this, purely because I have the bits and the seller who sold me the box lied.

Still a recon box unused for £250 but disco not fender :mad:

I'm moving rear bulkhead back, making super king cab, moving seats back and doing this as below with new seat box.

Essentially like a tomcat inside. Will also be moving the gear lever a little, can convert it to defender spec for about £200 so worth it on my part given the box condition but cba and would rather have some more cab space

12091027hp.jpg


12091040cb.jpg
 
full time 4x4 will kill your front axle / drivetrain, it has no cv joints and can't cope

cheers steve

that's strange, i know one person that has exactly that and the thing that has died in his Series is the LT77, not had any problems with his front axle

where the problem comes in more than anything is with a Series transmission is that there's NO centre diff, so slowly your front wheels /diff turns at a very slightly different rate to the rear wheels/diff

being as there's NO centre diff in a Series transfer box you would end up scrubbing the front or rear tyres along which in turn increases the stress on both diffs and the uj's in the front axle

the centre diff in an LT230 removes that problem by allowing the front diff to rotate at a different speed to the rear diff

it's how diffs work, Simples

the only thing you MIGHT get is a little kickback on the steering wheel on tighter locks on tarmac/hard packed ground, uj's can cope but just not as well as cv's
 
that's strange, i know one person that has exactly that and the thing that has died in his Series is the LT77, not had any problems with his front axle

where the problem comes in more than anything is with a Series transmission is that there's NO centre diff, so slowly your front wheels /diff turns at a very slightly different rate to the rear wheels/diff

being as there's NO centre diff in a Series transfer box you would end up scrubbing the front or rear tyres along which in turn increases the stress on both diffs and the uj's in the front axle

the centre diff in an LT230 removes that problem by allowing the front diff to rotate at a different speed to the rear diff

it's how diffs work, Simples

the only thing you MIGHT get is a little kickback on the steering wheel on tighter locks on tarmac/hard packed ground, uj's can cope but just not as well as cv's

With mine I also have fwh's at the front so will be using them until I can get hold of some D1 axles or fender ones to put in

Easy enough to mod as theres a guide on here
 
full time 4x4 will kill your front axle / drivetrain, it has no cv joints and can't cope

unless you can source a stage 1 v8 front axle

cheers steve

Have you "Actually" fitted a LT77 to a series AND had it kill the front axle...
OR are you just quoting hearsay ???

I have run a 88" with LT77 behind a 200Tdi for the last 3 years (And the previous owner for several years before we bought it )

AND the front axle is still fine ...the sky hasn't fallen down nor has the earth ceased to turn .

Ok the steering is a tad notchy on tight low speed turns (tesco's car park etc) but other than that ...
cock all in the way of problems ...no free wheel hubs etc just plain old series running gear .
 
i suggest you leave your freewheel hubs in 4x4 and NOT drive it with the centre diff permanently in "locked"

i won't swear this is true but i am led to believe the centre diff doesn't respond favourably to being permanently locked
 
i suggest you leave your freewheel hubs in 4x4 and NOT drive it with the centre diff permanently in "locked"

i won't swear this is true but i am led to believe the centre diff doesn't respond favourably to being permanently locked

you on about me ?

never said I was going to lock the centre diff! I know how they work, idea is you take strain off the joins by having the hubs free to turn as well as the centre diff as it'll take a lot of strain off everything

plus it should help economy a bit too given that its only really having to provide power to the rear then
 
you on about me ?

never said I was going to lock the centre diff! I know how they work, idea is you take strain off the joins by having the hubs free to turn as well as the centre diff as it'll take a lot of strain off everything

plus it should help economy a bit too given that its only really having to provide power to the rear then

ermm

i think that if you run an lt77/230 combo and freewheel hubs on the front axle with them set to 4x2 you'll find yourself wondering why your not going anywhere without the centre diff locked (unless you happen to be parked on a really steep hill)

there is a slim chance that i could be wrong and that the centre diff is powered from the rear of it thus primary power is fed to the rear wheels before being shoved through the centre diff to power the front axle

i'll make the obvious statement that i've not actually owned/stripped or otherwise looked at the LT77 to any degree, so if i'm wrong in how the centre diff works i'll apologise right now for being an irritating prick :eek:
 
ermm

i think that if you run an lt77/230 combo and freewheel hubs on the front axle with them set to 4x2 you'll find yourself wondering why your not going anywhere without the centre diff locked (unless you happen to be parked on a really steep hill)

there is a slim chance that i could be wrong and that the centre diff is powered from the rear of it thus primary power is fed to the rear wheels before being shoved through the centre diff to power the front axle

i'll make the obvious statement that i've not actually owned/stripped or otherwise looked at the LT77 to any degree, so if i'm wrong in how the centre diff works i'll apologise right now for being an irritating prick :eek:

I'm on a 380/230 combo but in theory both sides of the diff will have resistance so it should drive or thats what I'm basing my theory on, could be wrong as could you ;). The diff still has to cope with the weight and resistance of turning the prop, diff and half shafts its only the wheels at the end that aren't connected so it could work but if not then I'll have to engage the FWH's
Will find out which works in due course, hope to have the box in and custom prop shafts made up soon enough so I can test the bugger
 
looking forward to hearing your progress

have you actually got a build thread going and pictures, these builds shouldn't be undertaken without sharing your work :D
 
This is the current build/**** take thread. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f37/its-here-211121.html

New engine is in, new clutch and recon box is going in on sat and will begin welding in the new gearbox mounts this weekend if I get a chance.

Got to measure it up then and see how far back I need to chop it and mod the seat box area, think it'll want moving back about 7 inches then a new cab fitting.
 
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Have you "Actually" fitted a LT77 to a series AND had it kill the front axle...

no........ but an r380 behind a 300 tdi....hence i eventually fitted a disco front axle, plus far better set up, no 'torque steer' effects, however i was regularly at off road sites so the series axles was getting a fuller than average workout....

maybe landrover should have stuck with a series front axle for coilers and the stage 1 v8 and saved all that money wasted on development damn fools that they are :)

cheers steve
 
could be wrong as could you .

Spot on there

The diff still has to cope with the weight and resistance of turning the prop, diff and half shafts its only the wheels at the end that aren't connected so it could work but if not then I'll have to engage the FWH's
Will find out which works in due course, hope to have the box in and custom prop shafts made up soon enough so I can test the bugger

This will make no odds, the situation described is the same as breaking a half shaft up front, the diff etc must still be turned providing resistance as stated but you will go absolutely nowhere unless you engage diff lock, now in theory diff locked but freewheeling hubs released will mean no appreciable wind up but the box isn't designed to run that way permenantly, again look at Ashcroft, they do a kit to convert the transfer box from 4wd to 2 that may be of use

Cheers Steve
 
Spot on there



This will make no odds, the situation described is the same as breaking a half shaft up front, the diff etc must still be turned providing resistance as stated but you will go absolutely nowhere unless you engage diff lock, now in theory diff locked but freewheeling hubs released will mean no appreciable wind up but the box isn't designed to run that way permenantly, again look at Ashcroft, they do a kit to convert the transfer box from 4wd to 2 that may be of use

Cheers Steve
the kit is a freewheel hub kit bearmach do for def/disco except you dont use the free wheel hubs
 
If his box is good like mine and he can be arsed taking it apart he could convert to defender spec with FTC4588, FTC5120, defender selector housing on top, short pinion if V8 and stumpy housing

Dave at Ashcroft made a post about it on another forum, cant remember the link though
 
If his box is good like mine and he can be arsed taking it apart he could convert to defender spec with FTC4588, FTC5120, defender selector housing on top, short pinion if V8 and stumpy housing

Dave at Ashcroft made a post about it on another forum, cant remember the link though
do ashcroft make short bell housing v8 spec lr never did ,though obviuisly they did 4 cylinder diesel ?
 
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