p38 balljoint removal

Hi there,does anybody have a balljoint removal/refitting tool ,i would be happy to pay rental and postage,cheers cliff

Where are yu?? Also for what they cost, it'd be cheaper to just buy one then have to pay postage both ways?

always used a big hammer meself!

i'm up in the highland's of scotland

Deffo cheaper to buy a new one or as said big hammer and a pry bar will get them out. There is no replacement tool you just insert them and tighten the nut up. If they turn as your tightening them (some do) a jack underneath it to lock it in to the hole works everytime.

Which balljoint is it you are talking about. If its the hub ball joints, its a right pig of a job as the joints have to be pressed in then the hub aligned with the axle to make sure everything runs centrally. I searched on here and found little info other than its a pig and will cost a fortune if you pay to have it done.

I would recommend changing upper and lower at the same time while its all apart.

If you do find a tool that does the job, let me know, as I got an advisory on my MoT this year for a lower ball joint.

yea it's the upper and lower hub balljoints

just go halfords ask for ball joint spliter that will do the job for you

j the range said:

just go halfords ask for ball joint spliter that will do the job for you

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I think you need to understand whats involved with the set up on these joints before you make a comment like that, or try searching on here to find the limited amount of info on the subject.

A lot of indies wont even take the job on and it can be getting on for a grand a side at main stealers

is there confusion here betwwen ball joints and wheel bearings?

There used to be a place up in Manchester that had one for hire and listed it on Ebay a few months ago. Hopefully Gemsdad may know of them or be able to get more info.
I made my own, together with the centralising tool but it will need loads of heat on the axle yokes to shift them as well. Luckily mine are ok..made them at work before I retired (Just in case) and then bought a brand new front axle case complete with swivels fitted off Ebay for £25. The bottom joint is height adjustable and as Dorset says..you need the centralising jig otherwise the halfshaft oil seals won't last 5 minutes. The extractor I have weighs in very heavy..it needs to be to shift rusted, pressed in ball joints. Have a look on RAVE for the procedure..it aint easy..or for the faint hearted!!!!!

Hi Irish, do you still have the drawings / dimensions for the tooling you made??

I'm in engineering an can probably get myself something knocked up

:welcome2:

Send me a PM with your mail address and I'll sort something out:behindsofa:

PM on its way

As mentioned above this isnt a run of the mill job. The joints are pressed into the axle casing and need some serious pressure to get them out and in again. I have a design for a tool to do the job, just waiting to find the right hydraulic cylinder down the boot sale....

rewmer said:

As mentioned above this isnt a run of the mill job. The joints are pressed into the axle casing and need some serious pressure to get them out and in again. I have a design for a tool to do the job, just waiting to find the right hydraulic cylinder down the boot sale....

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Don't suppose you'd like to share the design???

What sort of hydraulic cylinder do you need? could a bottle jack be adapted in any way??

I started off down that route but they proved to be too big. The cylinder I am after is only 3" long and about 3" diameter but is rated at 50 tonnes - see here I cant share the design as its still in my head until I get a cylinder. When I get one, I will gladly post my drawings and details. But it will have to wait until I find one at the right price.

Ahhh I know the kind of thing you're on about.


If you get something sorted, I'd be very interested to see it.

You are probably looking at the "Pancake" power pack type cylinder.
The LR kit comprises of what I believe to be the standard Sykes Pickavant 10 ton hand operated ram which is used on their range of hydraulic bearing pullers.
As you know, the ball joints are usually siezed in and the exposed part of the body rusty as hell. The extractor I have made is constructed of D2 tool steel with 4 tie rods secured by high tensile bolts. The main drawbolt is 3/4" UNF high tensile.
I have no intention of attempting to push them out cold, the axle yokes are built like a brick sh*thouse an I would use plenty of heat to assist with removal, after all the old one's are scrap. My experience of P38 wheel bearing replacement is that when the bores are polished and lightly oiled, the new joints will go in a lot easier