p38 balljoint removal
- Thread starter cliffweld
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
- Posts
- 47,185
- Location
- in Baron Wet Bum's Slave pit..
Where are yu?? Also for what they cost, it'd be cheaper to just buy one then have to pay postage both ways?
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
- Posts
- 47,185
- Location
- in Baron Wet Bum's Slave pit..
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
- Posts
- 47,185
- Location
- in Baron Wet Bum's Slave pit..
Deffo cheaper to buy a new one or as said big hammer and a pry bar will get them out. There is no replacement tool you just insert them and tighten the nut up. If they turn as your tightening them (some do) a jack underneath it to lock it in to the hole works everytime.
Dorset VogueSE
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,259
Which balljoint is it you are talking about. If its the hub ball joints, its a right pig of a job as the joints have to be pressed in then the hub aligned with the axle to make sure everything runs centrally. I searched on here and found little info other than its a pig and will cost a fortune if you pay to have it done.
I would recommend changing upper and lower at the same time while its all apart.
If you do find a tool that does the job, let me know, as I got an advisory on my MoT this year for a lower ball joint.
I would recommend changing upper and lower at the same time while its all apart.
If you do find a tool that does the job, let me know, as I got an advisory on my MoT this year for a lower ball joint.
j the range
New Member
- Posts
- 3,927
- Location
- liverpool
just go halfords ask for ball joint spliter that will do the job for you
Dorset VogueSE
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,259
I think you need to understand whats involved with the set up on these joints before you make a comment like that, or try searching on here to find the limited amount of info on the subject.
A lot of indies wont even take the job on and it can be getting on for a grand a side at main stealers
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 11,939
- Location
- oldbury
is there confusion here betwwen ball joints and wheel bearings?
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,317
- Location
- La Trimouille, Vienne, France
There used to be a place up in Manchester that had one for hire and listed it on Ebay a few months ago. Hopefully Gemsdad may know of them or be able to get more info.
I made my own, together with the centralising tool but it will need loads of heat on the axle yokes to shift them as well. Luckily mine are ok..made them at work before I retired (Just in case) and then bought a brand new front axle case complete with swivels fitted off Ebay for £25. The bottom joint is height adjustable and as Dorset says..you need the centralising jig otherwise the halfshaft oil seals won't last 5 minutes. The extractor I have weighs in very heavy..it needs to be to shift rusted, pressed in ball joints. Have a look on RAVE for the procedure..it aint easy..or for the faint hearted!!!!!
I made my own, together with the centralising tool but it will need loads of heat on the axle yokes to shift them as well. Luckily mine are ok..made them at work before I retired (Just in case) and then bought a brand new front axle case complete with swivels fitted off Ebay for £25. The bottom joint is height adjustable and as Dorset says..you need the centralising jig otherwise the halfshaft oil seals won't last 5 minutes. The extractor I have weighs in very heavy..it needs to be to shift rusted, pressed in ball joints. Have a look on RAVE for the procedure..it aint easy..or for the faint hearted!!!!!
Dorset VogueSE
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,259
Hi Irish, do you still have the drawings / dimensions for the tooling you made??
I'm in engineering an can probably get myself something knocked up
I'm in engineering an can probably get myself something knocked up
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,317
- Location
- La Trimouille, Vienne, France
:welcome2:
Send me a PM with your mail address and I'll sort something out:behindsofa:
Send me a PM with your mail address and I'll sort something out:behindsofa:
Dorset VogueSE
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,259
PM on its way
rewmer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,082
- Location
- Clacton, Essex, UK
As mentioned above this isnt a run of the mill job. The joints are pressed into the axle casing and need some serious pressure to get them out and in again. I have a design for a tool to do the job, just waiting to find the right hydraulic cylinder down the boot sale....
Dorset VogueSE
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,259
Don't suppose you'd like to share the design???
What sort of hydraulic cylinder do you need? could a bottle jack be adapted in any way??
rewmer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,082
- Location
- Clacton, Essex, UK
I started off down that route but they proved to be too big. The cylinder I am after is only 3" long and about 3" diameter but is rated at 50 tonnes - see here I cant share the design as its still in my head until I get a cylinder. When I get one, I will gladly post my drawings and details. But it will have to wait until I find one at the right price.
Dorset VogueSE
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,259
Ahhh I know the kind of thing you're on about.
If you get something sorted, I'd be very interested to see it.
If you get something sorted, I'd be very interested to see it.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,317
- Location
- La Trimouille, Vienne, France
You are probably looking at the "Pancake" power pack type cylinder.
The LR kit comprises of what I believe to be the standard Sykes Pickavant 10 ton hand operated ram which is used on their range of hydraulic bearing pullers.
As you know, the ball joints are usually siezed in and the exposed part of the body rusty as hell. The extractor I have made is constructed of D2 tool steel with 4 tie rods secured by high tensile bolts. The main drawbolt is 3/4" UNF high tensile.
I have no intention of attempting to push them out cold, the axle yokes are built like a brick sh*thouse an I would use plenty of heat to assist with removal, after all the old one's are scrap. My experience of P38 wheel bearing replacement is that when the bores are polished and lightly oiled, the new joints will go in a lot easier
The LR kit comprises of what I believe to be the standard Sykes Pickavant 10 ton hand operated ram which is used on their range of hydraulic bearing pullers.
As you know, the ball joints are usually siezed in and the exposed part of the body rusty as hell. The extractor I have made is constructed of D2 tool steel with 4 tie rods secured by high tensile bolts. The main drawbolt is 3/4" UNF high tensile.
I have no intention of attempting to push them out cold, the axle yokes are built like a brick sh*thouse an I would use plenty of heat to assist with removal, after all the old one's are scrap. My experience of P38 wheel bearing replacement is that when the bores are polished and lightly oiled, the new joints will go in a lot easier
