LSE Fuel inertia shut off button?

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odyssey

Active Member
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364
Location
Derbyshire
It (4.2 '93 LSE) has been running fine for a while now, but has suddenly decided not to start.

Used it last Thursday, no problems. Next day, just wouldn't start. Cranks fine but not a peep, not even trying. Fuel at rail, but plugs are dry, can hear various relays clicking and pump priming in tank for 2 secs. Not been able to check sparks yet (no assistant available & arms not long enough).

Questionable (1.5v) voltage @ injectors, but since discovered my multimeter is reading low, so will have to recheck.

Before tearing into EFI loom, I wondered about the inertia fuel cutoff solenoid - but where the hell is it? Owners manual doesn't mention it (that I can find), Rave ('95 version) has it on the bulkhead near washer bottle, I thought it was under the RH seat, somewhere else had it as behind the drivers kick panel, but I'm b***** if I can find it . . .

Anyone?

TIA - Alastair
 
It's behind drivers kick panel. If the switch has tripped there will be a message on the display. Do you have the Glow Plug and "Injector" lights on the dash when you switch the ignition on ?....If not, good chance a security learn is required as the "Handshake" between Becm and Engine ECU has been lost.

Sorry...Just realised that you have the Classic !!!...The above relates to the P38
 
On my 95 softdash the cut out switch is mounted on the opposite side to where it is shown on RAVE as far as I can remember. I'll have a look again tonight when I get home to make sure I'm not confusing it with the alarm bonnet switch but I think thats it.
 
I just looked at RAVE again, I'm thinking of the correct button alright. The text in rave calls it off as the RH side of the engine bay but the photograph shows it on the left. Flip the photo and thats where it is on mine.

I must think of that possibility more often when I'm confused by RAVE. :doh:
 
Last edited:
odyssey said:
It (4.2 '93 LSE) has been running fine for a while now, but has suddenly decided not to start.

Used it last Thursday, no problems. Next day, just wouldn't start. Cranks fine but not a peep, not even trying. Fuel at rail, but plugs are dry, can hear various relays clicking and pump priming in tank for 2 secs. Not been able to check sparks yet (no assistant available & arms not long enough).

Questionable (1.5v) voltage @ injectors, but since discovered my multimeter is reading low, so will have to recheck.

Before tearing into EFI loom, I wondered about the inertia fuel cutoff solenoid - but where the hell is it? Owners manual doesn't mention it (that I can find), Rave ('95 version) has it on the bulkhead near washer bottle, I thought it was under the RH seat, somewhere else had it as behind the drivers kick panel, but I'm b***** if I can find it . . .

Anyone?

TIA - Alastair
Click to expand...
Check for sparks - if the fuel pump primes the inertia switch is not tripped.
 
Like Eight said, check for sparks first. If the injectors aren't firing there could be a problem with the trigger signal. I'm not sure if there are any significant differences with the later engines but generally the 3.9's and 4.2's used the 14CUX ECU which takes the injection signal off the ignition coil. Check the condition of the wires/connectors at the coil, they do corrode and as a result can stop you dead. No sparks and no injector pulse could be either broken wire at coil, duff ignition amplifier or faulty pick up in distributor.
 
the switch is under the rear of the passenger front seat, to the right hand side. cant see why that would be the problem though, i had this problem 2 years ago, turned out to be rubbish/faulty spark plugs that had only done 800 miles. also check all the ignition fuses.
 
Thanks very much all for your suggestions, it was a bad/corroded connection at the coil - cleaned them up and it started first time.

Thanks also to 1992lse - the fuel shutoff switch was exactly where you said - at least I know where it is now (by the way, your avatar seems to be a P38 - have you sold the LSE?) Sorry, just read your profile - you tease . . .

As a result of this problem I also have discovered that one of my multimeters is reading wrongly, they're both digital, and on a disconnected, fully charged 9 month old battery one reads 12.93v and the other 14.4v.

On a brand new 1.5v alkaline AA battery, one gives 1.52v and the other 1.72v. Can you test them without getting a third meter?

A
 
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a what??????? a P38, me ????? never in a million years would i touch one of those. thats my new supercharged sport!!!!!

glad you got her started, i do miss my LSE, but hey ho, she had to go sometime, longest i have ever had one vehicle, 3 years almost. about time you joined the classic boys, your invite was sent ages ago. and please no mentioning the 38 on there lol
 
As a result of this problem I also have discovered that one of my multimeters is reading wrongly, they're both digital, and on a disconnected, fully charged 9 month old battery one reads 12.93v and the other 14.4v.

On a brand new 1.5v alkaline AA battery, one gives 1.52v and the other 1.72v. Can you test them without getting a third meter?
Click to expand...
The one that's reading the higher is the one that's u/s. Throw it away. You can get new ones now from a fiver upwards.
 
'thats my new supercharged sport!!!!!'

Oh **** - sorry - didn't look closely enough at the pic, only enough to notice it wasn't an LSE. No offence intended.

That being the case, can you still justify saying "8 inches more than most"? :)

Alastair
 
Damnation!

Started it (with no probs at all) several times after getting it going on Weds. Didn't use it yesterday, went out today and not a peep again.

So presumably I must have jiggled something when cleaning connectors, is it possible to test the ignition amp and the distributor pickup? I may have spares somewhere.

Can I test the earth continuity in the EFI loom from the ecu to the coil?

I'll start digging out the wiring diagrams . . .

Bugger, bugger, bugger!
 
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