clicking pedal

started about a couple days ago, now we are not talking abs pedal judder this is like the pedal is sticking on partial push.

I believe it is the plastic washers inside the brake modulator are failing- I found a stainless steel repair kit from I think either Australia or new Zealand or Rover Renovations in usa.

Does anyone know if the repair kit can be bought in this country,

Bit ****ed off as it's Christmas and I'll have to use my vw instead

fanatic said:

started about a couple days ago, now we are not talking abs pedal judder this is like the pedal is sticking on partial push.

I believe it is the plastic washers inside the brake modulator are failing- I found a stainless steel repair kit from I think either Australia or new Zealand or Rover Renovations in usa.

Does anyone know if the repair kit can be bought in this country,

Bit ****ed off as it's Christmas and I'll have to use my vw instead

Click to expand...

Fanatic, takes 2/3 weeks for the kit to arrive from OZ....

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/all-p38-owners-vehicle-pre-mid-1999-should-read-65706.html

Thanks I take it you have a kit fitted? any tips on fitting?

Reading the clicking brake pedal thread makes me think this isn't isolated and is an extremely dangerous design fault-what were they thinking using plastic on such a critical component?

looks like a new year spending spree, as I need a set of cats too.:mad2:

I have the kit, but as yet haven't fitted it so can't comment how long it will take.

I think the longest part will be bleeding the brakes once the kits fitted.

What are the instructions like that come with it??

Is it possible to post them up or do a PDF of them or something. Id be interested to see the procedure or how to fix this problem.

-Wills

Hi Fanatic, have you got any further with this yet? I notice there seems to be more and more of these faults being reported. I have the same problem but only from time to time. How many complaints have to be made and to whom before this issue is looked at by the manufacturer?

wills said:

What are the instructions like that come with it??

Is it possible to post them up or do a PDF of them or something. Id be interested to see the procedure or how to fix this problem.

-Wills

Click to expand...

I'II see if I can attach them tomorrow, but I think the file size maybe to large.

Failing that pm me your address and I'II post you a copy..

Decided to get organized on 2nd of jan and order a kit.
For me this should be a recall as it's potentially lethal, please if you have this issue


DO NOT IGNORE IT:- you will have either hard pedal and no brakes or no pedal and fluid blown out and no brakes-this doesn't occur gradually

Really what is needed is several of these that are relatively new, maybe VOSA could advise on how recall system works-I'll email them, but I guess that Land Rover will say wear&tear (if you have any doubts how little "ford" care see:- explorer cruise control)

zzr1200 said:

I'II see if I can attach them tomorrow, but I think the file size maybe to large.

Failing that pm me your address and I'II post you a copy..

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Wills, the file is 81mb in a Word file form, theres 31 pages with photo's.

PM me your address and I'II copy the disc and post it to you (unless you can think of another way).

zzr

have received the kit and rebuilt the modulator, apart from needing to use my press on one part it's relatively straight forward. Total cost of repair £50 and 4 ltrs of brake fluid. bled brakes out as per rave.

Superb, to say the braking is amazing isn't doing it justice. shows how bad it was before. Interestingly the pedal as I de pressurized it felt even more horrendous than the clicking I felt

Sorry to drag this post back up to date, but can those that have done this rebuild give out any tips that may help me to do mine soon please ?
I have bought a spare modulator so i can get the kit fitted before taking out the old one, my modulator is part no anr2239.
I also see there is a anr2238,but i dont know what is different about that one!
While i wait for the kit from Russell,i checked today that all my bleed nipples are not seized.All good
When taking off the old modulator have those that have done it, undone the 4 bolts from inside or just undone the 2 bolts from the engine bay side to release the unit ?
Also what size brake spanners are needed, is it 11mm and 13mm ?
Any help appreciated guys :5bcheers2:

Russell Botha has a a full guide on cd with the kit-really comprehensive.

Only point I would make, part of the sticky pedal on mine was where the washer had allowed assembly to tip slightly-a very light grade wet and dry paper took the burr off.( 600-1200 grit and make sure you clean it thoroughly)

Also handy to have second pair of hands (assistant)

Cheers Fanatic,got some wet and dry at hand.
Just wish i had a spare set of hands that doesnt have pmt and a lack of interest in cars

Andyp38 said:

Cheers Fanatic,got some wet and dry at hand.
Just wish i had a spare set of hands that doesnt have pmt and a lack of interest in cars

Click to expand...

ask her if she likes walking

I've had my brake pads and discs replaced all round and I've still got the pedal click. To date my brakes work every time I use them and I've given them a hard time just to be sure but I'd really like to get the fix done. Sadly though I have about as much mechanical know-how as a stunned carrot. Does anyone know of anyone in the UK (preferably in Lincs or Notts) that can carry out the mod and how much it might cost?

I'm surprised that nobody in the UK officially does this, slightly fiddly-but bleed as per rave. Brakes are superb

Probably because of the possible come-back if there was a problem with the brakes that could be traced back to the repair. Land Rover recommends complete replacement of the modulator as you know so for someone to do a repair 'officially' is going against that and leaving themselves wide open. I've got the kit as well to fit as I have a very very slight click. Hopefully I'll be doing it next time back home. Brakes work fine but, having said that, they take a far harder push than the Classic's (1990) brakes do. Maybe that's normal or is it a symptom as well from what you say Fanatic?

Derek Ward said:

Probably because of the possible come-back if there was a problem with the brakes that could be traced back to the repair. Land Rover recommends complete replacement of the modulator as you know so for someone to do a repair 'officially' is going against that and leaving themselves wide open. I've got the kit as well to fit as I have a very very slight click. Hopefully I'll be doing it next time back home. Brakes work fine but, having said that, they take a far harder push than the Classic's (1990) brakes do. Maybe that's normal or is it a symptom as well from what you say Fanatic?

Click to expand...

I think there are several issues interconnected

1) the washers do crack (they are responsible for the positioning of the mechanism)
2) the mechanism is susceptible to damage from either failure of washers/contamination
3)Mine exhibited a crunchy pedal, this was occasionally and harder to push.

When I took mine apart, although the fluid was clean,internally it was quite nasty. I therefore believe
1) the washers may fail, seen pictures of them cracked=no brakes/crunchy pedal/brake fluid everywhere.

2) if steel assembly gets any lump off washer or gritty particles from general wear=burr damage to steel mechanism.


After replacing washers and removing burr damage,bleed as per rave and brakes are superb.

To sum up-if you have a clicky pedal=not worth the risk and fit kit
Pedal hard,no clicking =bleed brakes as per rave

Hey for the guys that done this mod post pics. Here on the states no one seems to know about this. Thanks

bentonrover said:

Hey for the guys that done this mod post pics. Here on the states no one seems to know about this. Thanks

Click to expand...

I'm not a Mod I have donated to the forum. (mods are green)
Russell has pictures and his guide is copy right.

Either he posts pictures or I answer questions