Pete_TD4
Member
- Posts
- 32
- Location
- Southampton
Hi guys,
Six months after I bought this car, a work colleague (jtq4u on here) told me about the famous VCU issue, and we did a test:
The time then, 38 seconds, was deemed very good, so I thought nothing of it for a few years.
Today, two and a half years later, I decided it was about time I checked up on the state of the VCU. So I did another test:
I make this one about a minute and 20 seconds, if we take the corner of the driver's window as the 45º starting point. That's about double what it was when first measured
Three questions:

Pete
Six months after I bought this car, a work colleague (jtq4u on here) told me about the famous VCU issue, and we did a test:
The time then, 38 seconds, was deemed very good, so I thought nothing of it for a few years.
Today, two and a half years later, I decided it was about time I checked up on the state of the VCU. So I did another test:
I make this one about a minute and 20 seconds, if we take the corner of the driver's window as the 45º starting point. That's about double what it was when first measured
Three questions:
- Last test was in June, this one in January with ice on the ground. The car hadn't been driven since the previous day. How much difference does ambient temperature make to the stiffness of the VCU?
- If a new VCU is indicated, where's the best place to buy one - and genuine new versus pattern or reconditioned? Price is important, but there's no point wasting the time and the effort or cost of the replacement work by buying **** parts, and I do plan to keep the car for as long as I can.
- How hard is DIY replacement for someone with axle stands and a socket set, but no garage and little experience of car work (I'm a boat guy) ? The Haynes book says you have to take the whole propshaft off, and it's full of warnings about not pulling the CV joints apart and keeping things lined up properly. If I decided to get it done by a local garage, anyone care to stick a finger in the air as to cost?
Pete