Yet another Paint Query.

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Oy123

New Member
Posts
12
Hi Everyone.

I decided to start working on my Defender again after a cpl years off. First thing first is the paint job. Now I realise that this topic is all over this site, and I am sure some one will point out the search function (which I have used extensively on this subject btw).

From reading all of the posts on this site and others I had a plan in mind. But when I rang up the car paint company I am pretty sure they were laughing at me... So I have lost all confidence in my decision and have come on here to ask my questions.

My plan was to order some primer and santorini pearlecent paint from my local auto paint company but after the quote realised that if/when I cock up it is going to cost a fortune. He then said I should just get it done in a body shop, but I really want to learn this skill my self.
So now I think the best bet would be for me to learn how to spray with a gun and compressor using a cheaper set of paints and then if it turns out good down the line I could use better/expensive colours.

EUBC on this POST said that he used Rustoleum paint. And others on this site say they use 2k paints.

Would Rustoleum be good enough? Is there any problems to it, it seems cheap enough for me to have a go and not worry about messing up. If I used Rustoleum does it have the health risks that 2K paint have or can I use just a normal face mask for it?

I want to spray the paint, I have a spray gun and compressor ready for action, what is everyones opinion on paints?

My bad that this has been gone over alot but I could do with it all being on one page and not having to keep finding posts etc.

So to sum up:
Is Rustoleum any good? Is there better ones for same price?
Would Rustoleum need a air filter mask with canisters?
Are there cheaper 2k paints? My car paint company I rang quoted £220 + vat for metallic then gave me a lecture when I tried to find other alternatives! He also said that would only give me 1 dust coat and 1 top coat, of both paint and lacquer. Does that sound right?
Is there a easier more "forgiving" paints I could spray with?

Thanks in advance if you can help me!
Oy123
 
hi mate, there are other options, while im currently painting my land rover in synthetic with a roller, its only because i have nowhere to spray it.

but if you have the space and youre confident you can mask everything up ok, then the spray job really isnt hard at all.

id suggest to you to go for a high build waterbased primer like mipa grundierfiller, this can be used as an etch primer, a build primer, and a sealer all in one, and its cheap.

on top of that id suggest going the 2 stage route but for your base you could use an ordinary basecoat type paint. you can get these in all different pearls and metallics and they are solvent based.

now notice i didnt say 2pack yet. the base and clearcoat make up a 2 stage process, but only the clearcoat is 2 pack, meaning 2 components, the hardener and the clear itself. the hardener is what contains isocyanate.

so imagine youve just sprayed your basecoat, its metallic or pearl so you cant sand it (otherwise you get stripes in the metallics) you have a 4 hour window to spray your clearcoat.

you should go to autopaint doncaster website as they stock everything i mentioned above.

the process is:-

prep and primer, sand and flat to 600 grit until youre happy with all your bodywork.
spray the basecoat, 2 or 3 light coats, all within 15 mins of each other
spray the clearcoat within 4 hours, preferably 15 - 30 mins after basecoat


for the clear you wana spray a light coat first, then a medium coat after the 1st coat has gone tacky (touch the masking tape to see) , then a heavy wet coat last.

the wet coat is what will give you the glossy finish

after that you can let it dry , then cut and buff, but thats another story

for the clear id recommend polyurethane clear like upol system 20.


buy a gallon of panel wipe with your paints, buy a box of paint strainers, buy the correct thinners and hardener, buy tackcloths and use them before each coat of primer and basecoat.

to learn how to use your gun watch vids on youtube, mainly setting up hvlp and practice setting it up using water, gettin the correct spray pattern etc.

the setting up, keeping level to the surface, and timing is really all there is to it. concentrate on those 3 things and youll do a great job
 
Cheers for the quick reply bodmodbaby.

I'm still in the process of looking at the way you said. Though quick question, I notice that with this system you only sand the landy when using the primer, so I assume that the prime/prep for the base coat has to be excellent? If I cock up the base or clear coat is it easily fixed or do I have to go back to square one with sanding it all down?

Is this way forgiving enough for a new sprayer?
I will give auto paint doncaster a ring tomorrow to get a price for what I want.

Though the idea of using water to practice is genius. I can practice for hours and not cost a penny!
 
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