yeSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS sorted eas!!!

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zen

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got it!! what a bugger too...

think i might know more than anyone on how the eas ecu works now!(ie what it wants to see,pin voltages,signal input ,programe comands..)

so me lovely 2 door is on air proper...let the fun begin...

p.s. thanks for all inputs on why didnt work,though you all were well off, still no one on any US sites had a clue too!!all helped though,in the end came down to getting scope,multimeter,and diagrams out again...
 
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Think the upit coil was transposed with the downit link diode, in do this or else servo controlled potentiometer sweep rotor. Or maybe a wire had come off. :D:D:D
 
get this...if your (if manual) hand brake warning light bulb is pooped your rrc on air wont go into low....

i had incorrectly assumed that LR would use pull up/down resistors on the ecu inputs requiring a switched voltage input..but hey no...

so the eas ecu (manual) requires the handbrake crt input to be feed with 12v when hand brake off,or if auto the park /neutral switch, done via dash warning light if manual...well as i had really no need to wire up the handbrake warning light on the latter dash i had fitted..who the feck dont know that they have applied hand brake after all!!but HAD wired up hand brake to eas ecu (assuming it looking for an earth to indicate hb applied).....so me not connected 12v via bulb to eas ecu.so no work....thus if your bulb blows in dash..no low at 50mph....

still..all a good learning curve,i now know how the eas ecu works inside out!
 
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Standard safety practice involving control ecm's apply a signal voltage to say "Yes allow Movement/Function, if you then have a fault in a component/switch/wiring problem and loose your enable signal..................

"The Computer Says NO"....simples
 
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you bunch of geniuses....

Well done Zen....you finally cracked it, a lot of hard work and tears no doubt, but congratulations are in order for your determination and patience...I would have got pee'd off yonks ago....
 
get this...if your (if manual) hand brake warning light bulb is pooped your rrc on air wont go into low....

i had incorrectly assumed that LR would use pull up/down resistors on the ecu inputs requiring a switched voltage input..but hey no...

so the eas ecu (manual) requires the handbrake crt input to be feed with 12v when hand brake off,or if auto the park /neutral switch, done via dash warning light if manual...well as i had really no need to wire up the handbrake warning light on the latter dash i had fitted..who the feck dont know that they have applied hand brake after all!!but HAD wired up hand brake to eas ecu (assuming it looking for an earth to indicate hb applied).....so me not connected 12v via bulb to eas ecu.so no work....thus if your bulb blows in dash..no low at 50mph....

still..all a good learning curve,i now know how the eas ecu works inside out!


Would have thought that was pretty obvious, how did you miss it? :D:D:D

Seriously, nicely done good job.:):):)
 
Standard safety practice involving control ecm's apply a signal voltage to say "Yes allow Movement/Function, if you then have a fault in a component/switch/wiring problem and loose your enable signal..................

"The Computer Says NO"....simples

why though..considering it will still allow high to standard,standard to high,high to access,standard to access,still raise when pulling off when in access.etc...why the feck stop it go to low when at 50???none! not considering it allows you to do everything else...pointless..all or nothing..if it thinks it lost a control signal then go hard fault and be done with it if safty was the consideration...no..i recon just too tight to fit 1p resistors.or they just fecked up in designing..

anyway,still working! so nice compared to coils...
 
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