P38A P38 - intermittent EAS fault

Rubberknees · Feb 5, 2023

P38Joe said:
Spent my Sunday afternoon removing the white connectors and cleaning up the connector pins around the compressor. Just got back from a drive and everything seems to be behaving itself… for the moment! Cycles through the ride heights in seconds and no unexpected ‘jumps’ to full height.

Thanks @Datatek and @Rubberknees for the advice!

Well done

P38Joe · Mar 26, 2023

The problem has returned - time to bite the bullet and replace the drive pack. Car started to jump to highest ride height again and then the 'EAS Fault' on the dashboard reappeared. Plugged into the laptop and 'pressure signal constantly high'.

pwood999 · Mar 26, 2023

Did you check the connector contacts between driver pack & solenoids ? It’s underneath the valve block so it has to come out. Often the contacts are loose even if the plastic housing is tight. These can also cause random extended mode because the ECU cannot adjust so it faults.

oakey · Mar 26, 2023

With mine, she just jumped to wade height and I changed the driver pack.. She never went to hard fault

pwood999 · Mar 26, 2023

It would eventually.

Datatek · Mar 27, 2023

P38Joe said:
The problem has returned - time to bite the bullet and replace the drive pack. Car started to jump to highest ride height again and then the 'EAS Fault' on the dashboard reappeared. Plugged into the laptop and 'pressure signal constantly high'.

Most driver packs can be easily repaired if you can solder and have a suitable soldering iron.

P38Joe · Apr 16, 2023

Thought I'd update everyone for the benefit of the forum - changed the Drivers pack two weekends ago. TOUCH WOOD - it has been good as gold ever since. Seems to be much more responsive when adjusting between ride heights now - seems to do it in a matter of seconds. Perhaps an element of the placebo effect but the ride also seems less 'crashy'.

Was very easy to replace, whipped the compressor out and was able to get the drivers pack out without needing to move the valve block. Two of the bolts were quite hard to reach but soon got there with a little time and patience. Took about 45 mins all in all.

@Datatek I did look into the soldering option, but didn't trust my own ability in attempting it!

Will see how it goes, new A/C condenser is the next job on the list before the warmer weather gets here.

Happy Motoring.

Joe

Mark Piercy · Apr 17, 2023

Nice one, thanks for updating and good luck with your aircon

Datatek · Apr 17, 2023

P38Joe said:
Thought I'd update everyone for the benefit of the forum - changed the Drivers pack two weekends ago. TOUCH WOOD - it has been good as gold ever since. Seems to be much more responsive when adjusting between ride heights now - seems to do it in a matter of seconds. Perhaps an element of the placebo effect but the ride also seems less 'crashy'.

Was very easy to replace, whipped the compressor out and was able to get the drivers pack out without needing to move the valve block. Two of the bolts were quite hard to reach but soon got there with a little time and patience. Took about 45 mins all in all.

@Datatek I did look into the soldering option, but didn't trust my own ability in attempting it!

Will see how it goes, new A/C condenser is the next job on the list before the warmer weather gets here.

Happy Motoring.

Joe

Don't throw the old driver pack away, they may be becoming scarce.

P38Joe · Apr 17, 2023

Datatek said:
Don't throw the old driver pack away, they may be becoming scarce.

I thought exactly the same, stored safely away in case I’ve got no choice but to attempt a solder in the future!

cornishboater · Apr 23, 2023

Datatek said:
Most driver packs can be easily repaired if you can solder and have a suitable soldering iron.

I have a couple of suspect driver packs kicking about, what needs to be soldered Keith?

Datatek · Apr 23, 2023

cornishboater said:
I have a couple of suspect driver packs kicking about, what needs to be soldered Keith?

I'll try and post photo's when I fire up my office computer.

cornishboater · Apr 28, 2023

Datatek said:
I'll try and post photo's when I fire up my office computer.

Many thanks

Datatek · Apr 28, 2023

cornishboater said:
Many thanks

Sorry for the delay, been a bit busy.
The first photo is of the circuit board with all the potting removed. At the left end near where the wires come out you can see a 100uf electrolytic. This is the component that most often causes random EAS faults.
The replacement needs to be 100uf, 63volt 105C, ideally an axial lead device. Pick out the potting carefully to expose the component, cut the wires as close to the component as possible, drop the new one in and solder to the wires of the old part making sure you have the polarity correct. You can see from the second photo I did not have available an axial lead electrolytic, just not quite so easy to fit but works just the same. I have repaired 3 so far and they have worked fine.
A higher voltage rating is OK. It doesn't matter if the diameter of the new part is greater than the old part as there is sufficient room between the driver pack and the valve block. Reseal with electrical grade silicone.

Hope that helps

Mark Piercy · Apr 28, 2023

Datatek said:
Sorry for the delay, been a bit busy.
The first photo is of the circuit board with all the potting removed. At the left end near where the wires come out you can see a 100uf electrolytic. This is the component that most often causes random EAS faults.
The replacement needs to be 100uf, 63volt 105C, ideally an axial lead device. Pick out the potting carefully to expose the component, cut the wires as close to the component as possible, drop the new one in and solder to the wires of the old part making sure you have the polarity correct. You can see from the second photo I did not have available an axial lead electrolytic, just not quite so easy to fit but works just the same. I have repaired 3 so far and they have worked fine.
A higher voltage rating is OK. It doesn't matter if the diameter of the new part is greater than the old part as there is sufficient room between the driver pack and the valve block. Reseal with electrical grade silicone.
View attachment 287076

View attachment 287078
View attachment 287079
Hope that helps

Your a star Keith

cornishboater · Apr 29, 2023

Datatek said:
Sorry for the delay, been a bit busy.
The first photo is of the circuit board with all the potting removed. At the left end near where the wires come out you can see a 100uf electrolytic. This is the component that most often causes random EAS faults.
The replacement needs to be 100uf, 63volt 105C, ideally an axial lead device. Pick out the potting carefully to expose the component, cut the wires as close to the component as possible, drop the new one in and solder to the wires of the old part making sure you have the polarity correct. You can see from the second photo I did not have available an axial lead electrolytic, just not quite so easy to fit but works just the same. I have repaired 3 so far and they have worked fine.
A higher voltage rating is OK. It doesn't matter if the diameter of the new part is greater than the old part as there is sufficient room between the driver pack and the valve block. Reseal with electrical grade silicone.
View attachment 287076

View attachment 287078
View attachment 287079
Hope that helps

An absolute star, many thanks keith

P38A P38 - intermittent EAS fault

Rubberknees

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P38Joe

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pwood999

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oakey

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pwood999

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Datatek

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P38Joe

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Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

Datatek

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P38Joe

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cornishboater

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Datatek

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cornishboater

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Datatek

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Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

cornishboater

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