Yes another post about a p38 BMW diesel Overheating

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Geekfreek

Geekfreek

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Yes, yet another post about a p38 BMW engined diesel overheating!!
I’ve just spent some time looking through these forums looking at, and for posts about this problem hoping to find a cure!!
Well, I’ve drawn 2 conclusions, there are a lot of people viewing these posts and as yet no definitive cure, we all seem to have encountered the same or similar symptoms.

So, is this just a bad engine?, or is it just a bad application of the engine?
It seems there are known faults with this engine, one being the plastic impeller water pump problem, (evident in BMW 325 and 525 M51 engined cars and also the Vauxhall Omega 2.5) but what other problems keep cropping up?, what about the air con fans, the dury seems out on weather these have a direct effect on the overheating problem or not, others have air locks as a potential culprits, cracked heads, blown head gaskets, or like me you have fixed all the above and still have a bloody kettle for a car!!!:mad:

So this is an invitation to all you p38 2.5 diesel owners to voice you “cures” to the overheating problem, and it is a problem, a long running problem at that!
 
Geekfreek said:
Yes, yet another post about a p38 BMW engined diesel overheating!!
I’ve just spent some time looking through these forums looking at, and for posts about this problem hoping to find a cure!!
Well, I’ve drawn 2 conclusions, there are a lot of people viewing these posts and as yet no definitive cure, we all seem to have encountered the same or similar symptoms.

So, is this just a bad engine?, or is it just a bad application of the engine?
It seems there are known faults with this engine, one being the plastic impeller water pump problem, (evident in BMW 325 and 525 M51 engined cars and also the Vauxhall Omega 2.5) but what other problems keep cropping up?, what about the air con fans, the dury seems out on weather these have a direct effect on the overheating problem or not, others have air locks as a potential culprits, cracked heads, blown head gaskets, or like me you have fixed all the above and still have a bloody kettle for a car!!!:mad:

So this is an invitation to all you p38 2.5 diesel owners to voice you “cures” to the overheating problem, and it is a problem, a long running problem at that!
Click to expand...


the 2.5 bmw diesel was not meant to pull a car as heavy as a range rover
 
Geekfreek said:
So this is an invitation to all you p38 2.5 diesel owners to voice you “cures” to the overheating problem, and it is a problem, a long running problem at that!
Click to expand...

Have you replaced your radiator with a GENUINE one?? I had overheating problems which originally split my rad. This was replaced with a Britpart one. I still had overheating problems which eventually turned out to be a cracked head.

New head on, new head gasket, new water pump, new temp sensor, new expansion tank cap and STILL I would overheat. After spending a long long long long longgggggggggg time trying to figure out why I found the answer to my continual overheating problem.

The non genuine radiator which was put in was faulty. It looked fine and coolant flowed through it fine and there were no blockages BUT in the rad is a baffle. The baffle prevents the coolant from flowing in one side, along the top and then out the other side. When the baffle has been damaged, is gone or just isnt there for whatever reason, the coolant will flow in one side of the rad, straight along the top and then out the other side, never passing through the radiator to get cooled - this is a glaringly obvious problem when you look at the radiator but not something you think about until you have the problem.

After my research I was so positive of this I had the new Britpart rad out and replace it with a new genuine LR one (which was only a few quid more). The overheating was instantly cured and no more problems.

I ALWAYS work on the assumption that if it left the factory then it was designed and built that way for a reason, LR would not of put an engine in that overheated at the first sign of stationary traffic or whatever. If it was working fine up until you had problems, then there must be a problem somewhere with something.

Not only have I had a dodgy radiator from Britpart but I ALSO had a dodgy water pump as well. The bearings were bad in it from roughly 2 days after installation. It then left me stranded on the side of the road, bearing completely gone with coolant ****ing out everywhere. Luckily when the bearing went and the fan dropped forward it missed EVERYTHING and all I had to replace was the water pump.

In short I would be very careful with aftermarket parts, I tried out two rather important aftermarket parts and got stung, if I had just gone genuine in the first place I would of saved myself time/money and the sheer worry and anguish that I had as to why on earth I was still overheating even when I thought everything was good.

-Wills :)
 
alarmfitter said:
the 2.5 bmw diesel was not meant to pull a car as heavy as a range rover
Click to expand...

Dont want to be rude but thats a stupid post. Ok, it might not be as powerful as a 4.6 V8 but LR would never of bothered putting it in if the engine couldn't pull the vehicle.

If what your saying is true then all diesel P38 Range Rovers would of been overheating etc as soon as they rolled off the production line.

-Wills
 
Thanks Wills for an infomative post.

The rad was replaced with a Britpart one, because like yours mine split across the top and the steam cut a groove through the under bonnet sound deadening felt!

I've often stood chin rubbing looking at both hoses sat on top of the rad thinking exactly the same thing!!, I've now just bought a laser guided temp gauge to test your theory!!

Did you find any way of testing the baffle in your rad??

Thanks,
Steve
 
alarmfitter said:
just my opinion why does everone need a powerchip including myself if they are powerfull enough
Click to expand...

because people always want something more. either way, the amount of power the engine has, or doesn't, doesn't really come into this. Were talking about why its overheating

The rad was replaced with a Britpart one, because like yours mine split across the top and the steam cut a groove through the under bonnet sound deadening felt!

I've often stood chin rubbing looking at both hoses sat on top of the rad thinking exactly the same thing!!, I've now just bought a laser guided temp gauge to test your theory!!

Did you find any way of testing the baffle in your rad??
Click to expand...

Snap! My felt stuff on the underside of the bonnet bears the scar of my split rad as well.

Anyway, like you Geekfreek I also bought a digital infrared thermometer thingymabob. Its good and can help with diagnosis. Get measuring the two hoses too and from the rad, a sure sign of a problem with the rad is when you see two readings almost identical. I was in the high nineties on both sides with about a 1*C difference between the two if I remember correctly.

When I put the new rad in I never bothered testing the temps out again so I cant tell you what they 'should' be but I knew almost instantly my problem was fixed as when I started driving the needle didnt start sprinting its way to the 12 o'clock position.

Instead it gradually climbed up to just a bit under 12 (it was a very warm day when I got mine sorted) and then went back down as load was reduced on the engine, basically, it was back to how it used to be, the temp needle fluctuates with driving. For example, it was snowing here the other night, 0*C ambient temp, needle moved up to just into the white zone and stayed there all the time until I came to a hill,it then climbed a bit heading towards 12 and then dropped back off as I leveled out.

One sure way I could also tell I was DEF overheating (and it wasnt a temp sensor fault) was, with the A/C on and it being a warm day, sitting at traffic lights, needle started to creep up past 12. I immediately put the blower on HI both sides with full fan speed which slowed it down climbing a bit BUT as I pulled away I could really hear the viscous fan roaring, trying to pull as much air through as possible. Have you heard the fan really spinning up to try and keep it cool??

From what you have said, I think you are going to find you have a nasty cheap rad from Britpart, probably one of the same batch that I had. I would go ahead and order yourself a new genuine rad. If you have an auto DSE (sorry I dont know the exact correct part number for a manual DSE) the part number is PCC108470 and from my invoice its £220 + VAT. You may have to wait a few days to get one though, I know they didnt have any in stock when I wanted one, not even at the factory and they had to put it on back order. Meanwhile the LR dealer said did I want to try an aftermarket rad such as a Britpart one, I said NO!

If they cant get you one that easily (i.e: next day) then PM me and I will help you out a bit there as I ended up having to go a slightly non-conventional route to make sure I got one ASAP.

If you want to stick with your current rad for the moment and test it then this is the official procedure taken from the Tech Bulletin 26/02/96EN...

Procedure C: Radiator Baffle Check
Tools required - torch and dental mirror or similar.
1. Drain radiator
2. Remove inlet and outlet hoses from radiator.
3. Insert mirror into either the radiator inlet or outlet stub and the torch into the
other.
4. Angle mirror until a plastic baffle plate can be seen which will be translucent with
reflected light.
If the baffle plate cannot be seen as described but a bright light from the torch is
seen, the baffle plate is missing. This will require the radiator to be replaced.
Click to expand...

As I said I wouldnt even bother though, you have described practically all the symptoms I had. Get that cheap nasty part out of there and a genuine one in and then send the cheap rad back to where you got it from explaining the problem.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out, will be interesting to see!!

-Wills :)
 
wills said:
because people always want something more. either way, the amount of power the engine has, or doesn't, doesn't really come into this. Were talking about why its overheating



Snap! My felt stuff on the underside of the bonnet bears the scar of my split rad as well.

Anyway, like you Geekfreek I also bought a digital infrared thermometer thingymabob. Its good and can help with diagnosis. Get measuring the two hoses too and from the rad, a sure sign of a problem with the rad is when you see two readings almost identical. I was in the high nineties on both sides with about a 1*C difference between the two if I remember correctly.

When I put the new rad in I never bothered testing the temps out again so I cant tell you what they 'should' be but I knew almost instantly my problem was fixed as when I started driving the needle didnt start sprinting its way to the 12 o'clock position.

Instead it gradually climbed up to just a bit under 12 (it was a very warm day when I got mine sorted) and then went back down as load was reduced on the engine, basically, it was back to how it used to be, the temp needle fluctuates with driving. For example, it was snowing here the other night, 0*C ambient temp, needle moved up to just into the white zone and stayed there all the time until I came to a hill,it then climbed a bit heading towards 12 and then dropped back off as I leveled out.

One sure way I could also tell I was DEF overheating (and it wasnt a temp sensor fault) was, with the A/C on and it being a warm day, sitting at traffic lights, needle started to creep up past 12. I immediately put the blower on HI both sides with full fan speed which slowed it down climbing a bit BUT as I pulled away I could really hear the viscous fan roaring, trying to pull as much air through as possible. Have you heard the fan really spinning up to try and keep it cool??

From what you have said, I think you are going to find you have a nasty cheap rad from Britpart, probably one of the same batch that I had. I would go ahead and order yourself a new genuine rad. If you have an auto DSE (sorry I dont know the exact correct part number for a manual DSE) the part number is PCC108470 and from my invoice its £220 + VAT. You may have to wait a few days to get one though, I know they didnt have any in stock when I wanted one, not even at the factory and they had to put it on back order. Meanwhile the LR dealer said did I want to try an aftermarket rad such as a Britpart one, I said NO!

If they cant get you one that easily (i.e: next day) then PM me and I will help you out a bit there as I ended up having to go a slightly non-conventional route to make sure I got one ASAP.

If you want to stick with your current rad for the moment and test it then this is the official procedure taken from the Tech Bulletin 26/02/96EN...



As I said I wouldnt even bother though, you have described practically all the symptoms I had. Get that cheap nasty part out of there and a genuine one in and then send the cheap rad back to where you got it from explaining the problem.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out, will be interesting to see!!

-Wills :)
Click to expand...



well that told me then:D
 
I've had my 2.5 DSE since 2001 ...Its a 1998 ...I've never had a problem with the engine ...My cousin also has a DSE and his is good too ...He thinks some engines are good and some are bad.
 
Again thanks for all the info Wills, much appreciated.

As the rad is currently out of the car I tried a quick test tonight, with the rad upside down and tilted to one side (so that one of the ports was at 6 o'clock and the other was at about 3 o'clock I poured a watering can into the 3 o'clock port and watched in amazement the water gush out of the 6 o'clock port! surely it should just trickled out as it should have only flowed through the bleed tube, so it looks like you diagnosis is correct, I'll have a look with a small mirror tomorrow.

I've just had a quick look around on the net (Rimmer Bros, Paddock, etc) and they all list the same PCC 108470 part number (mine is auto) is this an indication that these are genuine parts as the prices vary quite a lot?

To be honest I'm going to try a sniff test this weekend (a mate lent me a kit) just to make sure it's not the head or gasket before spending any more money.

This is how I've got here so far...

A friend of a friend had this '97 DSE Vogue for sale at a low price, he was just driving one day in June this year when it overheated out of the blue, he promptly stopped, looked under the bonnet for anything obvious but didn't find anything, let it cool down for a while then started out again, within a mile the temp was in the red again, he stopped, opened the bonnet and just as he was lifting it, bang, steam shot everwhere (the top of the rad had split) he called his local garage to recover the car, they took it to their workshop and later diagnosed either a cracked head or cracked block, the price they quoted to repair was beyond what he was willing to pay as he had spent so much on the car over the time he owned it.

I bought the car with the head off (in the boot) and all the associated bits in cardboard boxes, the old head gasket looked okay to me, nothing obvious anyway, but as you know with diesels it doesn't take much.

I took the head to a local reputable engineering firm for them to re-face and pressure test and asked them about some small (3 - 4 mm) cracks from the steel swirl chambers into the alloy head, they said nothing to worry about and quite normal on BMW diesel heads, they took 2 thou off the head and tested it @ 60psi overnight, no problems found, the head was, in their oppinion good!!

I inspected the block, no coreplug problems and as it's only done 95k the bores still have hone marks in them! again no problems!

I put it back together using a genuine BMW 3 notch head gasket (I don't ever use non genuine head gaskets on diesels!) new TTY (stretch) bolts, and torqued it down as per the book, new genuine thermostat and the Britpart radiator.

It ran fine on first fire up, warmed up topped up the coolant once the stat opened, heater working fine, let it cool overnight, re-torque the head bolts, then went for a drive, temp gauge at 12 o'clock, 10 miles later of mild driving the temp gauge is off to the red bit in a hurry!, the outside temp is 04, the hoses are rock hard and when the header tank cap is loosened all manner of bubbling and pressure is released!! I let it cool (10 mins) temp goes to normal, start off again, get half a mile and same thing again, it then does this every half a mile all the way home.

Thats it. I've spent so much on this now I can't spend much more on the run up to xmas without risking a divorce!!! I'll do the sniff test this weekend, if it passes I'll buy a new rad, it that doesn't sort the problem........grrrrrrrr anyone want a Oxford blue shed for their gardening tools with nice leather seats!!!

Cheers,
Steve
 
To find out if you are getting a genuine part you will need to ring these places up as they don't say on their sites.

I tried Paddocks (just looked at their site and buried in the Terms page it states the part numbers are for ID only and do not indicate the manufacturer) when I was trying to get hold of a genuine one, their site just gave the part number so I assumed it was genuine as it didn't say it wasn't. I rang up, got through and asked and the answer was 'no, its a britpart one'.

I did the same with LRDirect.com, again, britpart rad. They were ok though, they at least mentioned on their site that some of their products are britpart.

I found the ONLY way to get a genuine one was to ring a LR dealer and order one, it only worked out at £40 more expensive in the end if I remember correctly.

With regards to getting the head skimmed - my DSE (before I replaced the head) would only overheat after a longish journey at about 65-70mph. Around town it seemed fine. I was told this could be a hairline crack that opened up as the engine got hot, allowing the exhaust gases into the coolant. Certainly when I did have these problems my rad hoses were ROCK solid and scorching hot. If you have these symptoms still then the rad might only be part of your problem.

I would think though if they skimmed and then pressure tested overnight you should be fine.

When my head failed I was too having that tiny niggle in the back of my mind, what if its the block but I was told they are pretty bullet proof. Even with my failure occurring at almost 175,000 miles, with the head off you could still clearly see the bore marks as with yours.

Getting down to the last paragraph of your message this does have very similar symptoms of my extended layby stop on the side of the A43 back from Oxford. Rock hard hoses, lots of boiling and bubbling when tank cap removed.

Saying that though, with the overheating probs I had when the head had been replaced and it was quite literally just the rad that was the problem I still had 'hard' hoses. Not like before where they were so solid I couldn't squeeze them because, well, they were solid AND far too hot too touch. But pretty hard, squeezable but took a bit of force with the temp of them around 90something*C.

I dont really want to say either way but if you trust the engineering firm and you are pretty sure they know their stuff then do the rad, I think from what you have posted your problems will be solved.

Failing all that if you want to give up on the whole thing let me know as well, i'll take it off your hands for a few beer tokens your way :D

-Wills :)
 
Two other things I forgot to mention, I've changed the water pump (as some say they fail due to impeller slipping problems, though mine didn't) with a non genuine QH one, it doesn't look to bad, in terms of quality, not as many vanes as the original (8 rather than 11) and the other thing is my fan doesn't howl! but seems very stiff to turn when the engine is cold, how can you tell if the viscous coupling is working as it should?
 
Well here's a slightly different slant on things.
My '96 DSE started 'howling' from the fan ALL the time, & even on long runs, the engine never got up to 'normal' temp.
The fan was stiff whilst stationary, indicating that the viscous drive was shot, since my car NEVER ran hot, I decided to remove it all together & fitted an 18" Kenlow electric fan with a thermostatic control & manual override switches.
The difference is remarkable, it now runs for 99.9% of the time WITHOUT the fan cutting in, is slap-bang in the middle on the temp gauge, AND I often pull a heavy large (bigger than a LWB hi-top Tranny) trailer, then the temp does rise a bit, & when I go up the big hills over the moors, the temp shoots up, fan cuts in & the temp literally whizzes back down, I also have incorporated override & 2 speed switches, neither of which has been needed so far.
Fuel consumption is better due to running at optimum temp, the car is also 'chipped' further improving power, torque & fuel even more:)

If I do a couple of hundred mile run solo, the fan NEVER even cuts in.
It showed me 24 plus MPG towing at 60+ & I regularly see 35-37 solo.
All in all, personally, I'm well pleased,

125k original engine, untouched apart from new glowplugs.
 
Hi, I recently bought (trade) a 99 DHSE with 70K on the clock, FSH, beautiful condition. I did a bit of touring around England, everything fine needle rock solid at 12. Returned to Ireland and about 50miles from home problems started exactly as described in threads above. Did a lot of research on the web but eventually diagnosed a head gasket failure. Found a Land Rover specialist near home who has replaced heads on several dse's in the last few months. He said that on a pretty fresh one like mine to forget about partial fixes. He said that once it has heated a few times you must replace the pump and radiator, and use genuine parts. He strongly recommended a new head as well since he had done a few that had passed the pressure test but caused problems within weeks. I got back on to MacLandrovers in Owestry where I bought it and all credit to them (I bought it trade with no comeback since I live in Ireland) they helped me out with parts at very reasonable prices to replace the lot as suggested by my mechanic. Both my Mechanic and Mac Landrovers said it was the only sure way of success after a gasket failure. The water pump has a history of failing as described in other threads but this leads to further problems with the rad and then the head or in any other order. Probably not the solution most people want to hear, will probably cost me the best part of 3K€ but if I get another 70K from the engine it'll be worth it. By the way mine is chipped as well (as are most that are in the threads) so I wonder if there is much corelation between chipping and heating problems
 
SpudH said:
Found a Land Rover specialist near home who has replaced heads on several dse's in the last few months. He said that on a pretty fresh one like mine to forget about partial fixes. He said that once it has heated a few times you must replace the pump and radiator, and use genuine parts. He strongly recommended a new head as well since he had done a few that had passed the pressure test but caused problems within weeks.
Click to expand...

I think this says it all really, this is exactly what I went through to get my DSE back on form.

Again Geekfreek I would really replace the water pump with a genuine one. After all if the original one had 11 vanes then there must of been a reason for LR to design it that way.

Even when the vehicle is starting to heat and you stop and gently rev the engine a bit does it not start making a bit of a roar then??

The fan being stiff when the vehicle is cold is normal. This is because all the oil in the viscous bit drains to the bottom. If you start and then let it idle it can take a minute or two for it to disperse back properly into the VC. Once this is done the fan quiets down. If you drive straight off after starting, the oil is spread evenly much quicker due to the centrifugal force so will only roar for a around 15-20 secs.

Modelman, the reason you fan was roaring all the time was probably because the VC had failed, I think if you had replaced the VC you would of been all good again. I know you went to electric fans and I know some people are big fans of these etc but personally im not, if it was designed a certain way, to have a viscous fan, then in my opinion, this is how it should be left. Although I dont tow I was going through the peak district this summer with a full family on board and a completely loaded up boot and going up some of the big hills there the temp gauge NEVER moved past 12. It got to it but then rapidly dropped back off as I came down the hills.

I remember a thread on here a long time ago that asked the question of where the temp gauge should sit in these DSE's and it was the general conclusion that they all fluctuated with driving and would normally sit quite a way under 12, on cold days, sometimes not even moving much into the white area. I know this is the same with lots of turbo diesel cars and it certainly is the case with my friends new 57 Pug she got, temp needle climbs depending on how she drives and will then drop back off. So the needle constantly being slap bang in the 12 position might worry me slightly, especially on colder days like we have at the moment.

The viscous coupling is kinda hard to test and I figured at the time that if I was replacing the head at some large cost along with other bits and bobs I might as well include that as well. It cost me £120+VAT, which may seem lots but in comparison to whats been spent already it isnt really. I was of the opinion that I was DEF going to keep the car and I wanted to having it running more or less problem free (hard with a P38, but what I mean is I didn't want engine problems, electrical problems I can live with and deal with much more easily since im in that sort of industry) for a good long while.

To give you a rough idea though, when my engine is cold the fan is stiff. When its warm I can spin the fan maybe 3 blades at a time?? I dont think thats a very good way to test though. What I will say is my VC was the original one up until 175K when everything went tits up. Even when my rad blew the system still hadn't overheated and the temp gauge was at 12 and you could hear the fan working a bit harder than usual, not like when you start it up though. However, as I said, I wanted to be sure everything was back to how it was so replaced it when the head was done.

I know it may seem expensive but the moral of the story seems to be replace everything related to cooling the engine with genuine stuff, after all, this is the system that keeps your engine within acceptable operating temps and is relied on every time you use the vehicle. I found out the hard way that aftermarket seems to equal problems and expense, that and getting to know lots of recovery lorry drivers.

-Wills :)
 
wills said:
I know it may seem expensive but the moral of the story seems to be replace everything related to cooling the engine with genuine stuff, after all, this is the system that keeps your engine within acceptable operating temps and is relied on every time you use the vehicle. I found out the hard way that aftermarket seems to equal problems and expense, that and getting to know lots of recovery lorry drivers.

-Wills :)
Click to expand...

Sorry but I don't fully agree with this, a pattern part should be able to do the job it was made to do, if it doesn't then it isn't fit for purpose.:confused:

I'm also sure that LR when building the P38 didn't go with the first price they found when looking for radiators or whatever, the work would have been tendered out and someone somewhere made a desission based on the ability of the part to do the job, the unit cost of the part, the life expectancy of the part, and a dozen other factors, not just is this the best part we can buy, but is this the best we can do for an amount of money, I further believe that some pattern parts are actually better than the originals, they have seen where originals have failed and compensated for the common failure and made a better part.

A radiator and a water pump shouldn't be to difficult to make, when you have seen the originals, should they?

As to the change from 11 vanes to 8, this could actually be benefit, why else change it?

Another thing to throw into the equation is the fact that most of these parts are made for LR under license by the people making the pattern parts!!
same bits, different boxes!!

One final thing, remember the space shuttle story.... the space shuttle is a collection of millions of parts...all made by the lowest tender!!!:)
 
Geekfreek said:
A radiator and a water pump shouldn't be to difficult to make, when you have seen the originals, should they?
Click to expand...

Thats what I would of thought but if this is the case then how on earth can they make a radiator and not include the baffle that makes sure the coolant flows through the radiator?? :confused:

Also, if you have more vanes on the water pump I would of thought this would of given it a better ability to move the coolant round the engine than if you had just 8??

-Wills :)
 
wills said:
Thats what I would of thought but if this is the case then how on earth can they make a radiator and not include the baffle that makes sure the coolant flows through the radiator?? :confused:

I've tonight looked into my Britpart radiator using the mirror and torch method you kindly provided, the baffle is there, and in place, admitidly it doesn't quite touch down tightly onto the core of the radiator (does the original?) but it is in there, I would guess there is a 1 or 2 mm gap for the water to escape under along the top rail to get to the far port.

If you think about it, the rad is a great design in theory, the water MUST make 2 passes of the core to get back to the engine, in a conventional radiator it only needs to make one, but unless the top baffle is watertight, it will take the shortest route across the top rail and cool feck all!! (can't wait to try out my new thermometer on this!)

Has anyone taken a genuine rad apart to see how the baffle is fitted?

Also, if you have more vanes on the water pump I would of thought this would of given it a better ability to move the coolant round the engine than if you had just 8??

That's a bit like saying my V12 is better than your V8!!!:p
probably smoother pumping pulses with more vanes, who knows!!:)
Click to expand...
 
hi ive got a p38 rr diesel and im having overheating problems ,just taken head off to find 3 cracks one between valves and 2 more from around pre combustion chambers.I need to source a new head does any one know a good supplier.Best price ive had yet is £950 for head ,head set and stretch bolts.Someone told me to try vauxhall dealer as omegas have bmw lump in them and are sometimes cheaper for parts.
My rr has been chipped by jeremy fern and has upgraded intercooler and is pumping out 197 bhp this has been fitted for about 7 years and this is the first time ive had a problem with overheating.
I aslo own a bmw 325 tds 1996 which has same engine this has done a wopping 275000 miles on same engine never uses any oil or water and still goes like a train and has never had a problem with overheating ,strange eh:confused:
 
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