y reg v6 auto

can anyone please tell me if an auto v6 freelander is a good car or is it one to stay away from,can the auto box be trouble
cheers

It is a good car. Lots of people moan about them slipping liners etc. Also head gasket failure. This was sorted by the time the rover kv6 was fitted in the Freelander, so it's not that common compared to rovers during the 90's having the same fault. But it can still happen. The engine is thirsty. That’s why they’re cheap. Best to go for either the rover L series diesel or the bmw diesel. Auto isn’t that bad. Checking the oil level is a bit difficult due to the silly way it has to be done. I take my v6 auto off road. Would be a good idea to read through the common faults thread to get an idea of what to look out for.

We ain't had any trouble from this'un yet, certainly more reliable than the 1.8 K4 engined one we had. Sure it's had a niggle with the microswitch burning out in the door handle, that could happen to any FL mind you, it just chose to die at the most inconvenient time - we ended up driving 12 miles with rear door secured with a tow rope to get another handle!

Auto boxes are fine as long as you keep on top of the maintenance - i.e. auto box oil changes - they will not run (figuratively speaking) forever like a Discovery auto box - they're two totally different things.

As Hippo has already said, the V6 is a thirsty beast - we got 19mpg last time we worked ours out, that was including playing on the snow/ice though - so you might be better off looking at an 'L series' or a TD4 if you have deep pockets and only short arms.

If you do decide to go for the V6 check everything electrical works(applies to all of them really), do loads of 3 point turns, tight corners etc... make sure there's no clunking as it can prove to be expensive.

MHM where are you , he wiil tell you a horror story about em

er......



no.....



burn it out and charge them......

Is it a black one?
Dont touch it - get a doozil one. Hippo talks out of his arse - my y reg kv6 had 3 hgf's in as many years, also suffered from vis valve failure, carb failure, chassis cracking, etc.
Only buy one if you are prepared to dig deep into your pockets and walk most places.

The Mad Hat Man said:

Is it a black one?

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The Mad Hat Man said:

Dont touch it - get a doozil one. Hippo talks out of his arse - my y reg kv6 had 3 hgf's in as many years, also suffered from vis valve failure, carb failure, chassis cracking, etc.
Only buy one if you are prepared to dig deep into your pockets and walk most places.

Click to expand...

Firstly MHM, when seeing the head gasket fail for the 2nd time, why bother having the work done to repair it if the car/engine is so bad? You quote on other posts you spent 6k on repairs. Something wrong there. Especially as your in the know about how bad these engines/Freelanders are.

My Freelanders had a replacement engine (seized) and also had vis problems too. Both happened at the same time. Not sure what snapped inside, is was cheaper to replace the whole engine. Auto couldn’t hold it’s oil, so that needed replaced. We didn’t pay for the engine my brother in law did as he imported it. When the engine seized the driver lost it and bumped it at the front. Hence the gearbox tin cover being damaged, which split and leaks 8k miles later.

So I speak from experience of problems to. Didn’t you pay 6k in one year on repairs? I don’t know anyone foolish enough to do so, especially if you say the v6 Freelander is bad? When the second HGF happened, did you not think this was a sign of problems to come?

When searching for garages to replace my cam belts I visited many rover garages, some ex rover and some independed. They were all happy to look at the car, but the cost wasn’t worth the work done so I did it myself. LR independent don’t have the tools and tell you they’re £550 per set. Bought mine at a fraction of that. Not all rover garages wanted the job as it was a land rover. Hence them all wanting to see the car first before quoting. Whilst there I asked weather it was worth having the belts done. I too have seen a lot on the web that slates the rover kv6, hence didn’t want to spend money on something that was evidently going to fail. Not if, more like WHEN it fails. All garages were happy to explain the problems, and convince me it’s not as bad as advertised. MHM’s opinion on here, along with several others is the kv6 is no good. Yes they fail like all cars do. Yes they tend to have the same weaknesses and the same faults often come up, but it’s not as bad as stated. All forums berate one engine or car. We only ever see owners with faults on here. Few without faults so it’s hard to work out the percentage failure rate.

Some history given buy the garages:

When the rover kv6 was fitted in the 1990’s to rovers they had problems to say the least. Engineering tolerances were blamed. More commonly know as built badly to start with, and the factory didn’t give a toss. That’s brummies for ya. The repair was too much for garages to do, so they were recalled back to the rover factory for the work to be carried out. There’s 2 major differences in the rover kv6. The switch over can be detected by looking at what engine management you have. MEMS or Siemens. Later engines, and Freelanders use SIemens.

I would agree the kv6 suffered HGF, and sequential HGF sometimes, but they started trying to fix this in the 90’s and succeeded in reducing the number of failures considerably. Sequential HGF means your doing something wrong – either not getting the job done correctly or simply spending money on something that’s never going to be right – 6k in one year is a lot – burn it. Shame the fixes on the 1.8 didn’t fare as well as the kv6. The kv6 also suffered camshaft shattering hence the rear exhaust camshaft cog has dampers fitted on later engines. Freelander all have these.

The water issue and liner slipping. Not good but you have to admit owners of over heating engines often don’t notice. Hence damage is worse. Few people bother to look at the temp gauge. Few lift the bonnet to check oil/water level. The AA has it’s on independent figures on this.

There are still failures, and I appreciate the rear bank is hotter due to the engine alignment which is favourable to the safety rather than engine cooling, but the fact is the people who work on these cars daily for repairs and servicing (including the major, lates and several other in the know on the mg forum) all say they’re good engines. That doesn’t mean to say faults won’t occur, one of them being HGF. My front drive shaft is leaking – doesn’t mean to say all Freelander will have the same repeated problem.

We all have our opinions. If I were to get another Freelander, as I said above I’d go for the diesels. That’s purely down to fuel economy. Perhaps even another auto as I take mine off road. On one of the hottest days this year I drove 25 miles in 1st gear off road. Yes the fans came on, but the engine is still alive and running. Could be I have one of the 3 known working Freelander v6’s around?

Hippo said:

Firstly MHM, when seeing the head gasket fail for the 2nd time, why bother having the work done to repair it if the car/engine is so bad? You quote on other posts you spent 6k on repairs. Something wrong there. Especially as your in the know about how bad these engines/Freelanders are.
Because, when bought it, I made the assumption, incorrectly as it happened, that having had HGF a year earlier and repaired by a LR dealer, it would now be "fixed" - it "wasnt the same as those nasty 1.8's".
As for "being in the know" - i wasnt -I, very naively believed that "I like the looks of a freelander and its from the same stable as Series and Defenders - designed to be repaired in a desert with a hammer and a screwdriver - isnt it?"
My Freelanders had a replacement engine (seized) and also had vis problems too. Both happened at the same time. Not sure what snapped inside, is was cheaper to replace the whole engine. Auto couldn’t hold it’s oil, so that needed replaced. We didn’t pay for the engine my brother in law did as he imported it. When the engine seized the driver lost it and bumped it at the front. Hence the gearbox tin cover being damaged, which split and leaks 8k miles later.

So I speak from experience of problems to. Didn’t you pay 6k in one year on repairs? I don’t know anyone foolish enough to do so, especially if you say the v6 Freelander is bad? When the second HGF happened, did you not think this was a sign of problems to come?
No - As I said - the 2nd HGF, was my first - and was sold less than a month later. The 6K was all garage bills, I did not do any work on it myself, as it was a "company car". I repeat, at the time, I did not know how bad the freelander was - I have since learned!!! oh - and "yes - thats why I traded it in as soon as it started bubbling again!"

When searching for garages to replace my cam belts I visited many rover garages, some ex rover and some independed. They were all happy to look at the car, but the cost wasn’t worth the work done so I did it myself. LR independent don’t have the tools and tell you they’re £550 per set. Bought mine at a fraction of that. Not all rover garages wanted the job as it was a land rover. Hence them all wanting to see the car first before quoting. Whilst there I asked weather it was worth having the belts done. I too have seen a lot on the web that slates the rover kv6, hence didn’t want to spend money on something that was evidently going to fail. Not if, more like WHEN it fails. All garages were happy to explain the problems, and convince me it’s not as bad as advertised. MHM’s opinion on here, along with several others is the kv6 is no good. Yes they fail like all cars do. Yes they tend to have the same weaknesses and the same faults often come up, but it’s not as bad as stated. All forums berate one engine or car. We only ever see owners with faults on here. Few without faults so it’s hard to work out the percentage failure rate.
I also looked at several garages - Dealers wouldnt touch it after they knew it had a previous HGF - The answer was either "scrap it" or "If we do the work, we will not give any guarantee!" It was finally carried out by an independant.

Some history given buy the garages:

When the rover kv6 was fitted in the 1990’s to rovers they had problems to say the least. Engineering tolerances were blamed. More commonly know as built badly to start with, and the factory didn’t give a toss. That’s brummies for ya. The repair was too much for garages to do, so they were recalled back to the rover factory for the work to be carried out. There’s 2 major differences in the rover kv6. The switch over can be detected by looking at what engine management you have. MEMS or Siemens. Later engines, and Freelanders use SIemens.

I would agree the kv6 suffered HGF, and sequential HGF sometimes, but they started trying to fix this in the 90’s and succeeded in reducing the number of failures considerably. Sequential HGF means your doing something wrong – either not getting the job done correctly or simply spending money on something that’s never going to be right – 6k in one year is a lot – burn it. Shame the fixes on the 1.8 didn’t fare as well as the kv6. The kv6 also suffered camshaft shattering hence the rear exhaust camshaft cog has dampers fitted on later engines. Freelander all have these.

The water issue and liner slipping. Not good but you have to admit owners of over heating engines often don’t notice. Hence damage is worse. Few people bother to look at the temp gauge. Few lift the bonnet to check oil/water level. The AA has it’s on independent figures on this.

There are still failures, and I appreciate the rear bank is hotter due to the engine alignment which is favourable to the safety rather than engine cooling, but the fact is the people who work on these cars daily for repairs and servicing (including the major, lates and several other in the know on the mg forum) all say they’re good engines. That doesn’t mean to say faults won’t occur, one of them being HGF. My front drive shaft is leaking – doesn’t mean to say all Freelander will have the same repeated problem.

We all have our opinions. If I were to get another Freelander, as I said above I’d go for the diesels. That’s purely down to fuel economy. Perhaps even another auto as I take mine off road. On one of the hottest days this year I drove 25 miles in 1st gear off road. Yes the fans came on, but the engine is still alive and running. Could be I have one of the 3 known working Freelander v6’s around?

Click to expand...

My point is threefold...
1) the Freelander is badly designed and put together.
2) the Freelander has inbuilt design flaws which may catch you out - if they do it can be very expensive.
3) It is better to go into buying one with your eyes open, not blinkered to their problems.

Discoveries and Defenders have their own problems - rot, but the basic design is a sound one.
Personally, I like the styling of the Freelander - it is one of the best looking SUV's on the market, but you cannot tell me it is a good motor - it is not. Yes, you may be lucky, and you may not be - but anyone who buys one, without knowing the possible consequences, is playing with fire.
Anyone who doesnt check a Disco for rot on the floor or the inner wings or doesnt check a Defender for Bulkhead or chassis rot is equally silly.
Fortunately Rot is fairly easily found. HGF, chassis cracking and failed VCU are not easily identified to those not used to conducting detailed investigations, as I wasnt at the time.
I know now better, as do several members on here. Some of which have given up trying to explain. If you believe that it is due to poor maintenance or stupidity on the part of the owner, you are badly mistaken. Previous owners include Sirus, Trewy and (i think) Griffdawg - none of which were or are stupid and only have one thing to say about Freelanders - "if you have to have one - get a diesel"

Ok. I can appreciate understanding the general faults and understanding how to detect them but it’s always put across on here that the v6 is not to be touched full stop. I can appreciate most owners sell them after the cam belt change as they realise repair bills are higher, and often peeps sell cars on when they have faults like the bubbling you mention. It just seems very harsh as if it’s doomed to fail, rather than more often than the average car.

You mention the following when looking to get a repeated HGF fixed: "If we do the work, we will not give any guarantee!"

I had the same comment given buy several rover garages who wouldn’t put a warranty on the cam belt change if they did the work. They wanted to drive the car before the work, and if it drove ok afterwards then I paid and signed to agree it worked with no warranty. Is this just down to it being a kv6 in a Freelander, rover garages being cautious, or do mechanics deem them to be too much of a problem getting them running after extensive work?

The car runs fine and did when the garages saw it. This was my first ever belt change so it took some time but once organised with instructions in step by step format I was able to do it. Looks easy now having done one, but not as quick as the 5.1 hours quoted by main dealers.

I believe that there are two main reasons for this.
1) the KV6 is basically "two K series blocks fitted side by side" (I know 6, not 8 cylinders, but you get the idea.
2) the risk of sequential HGF is such that no-one can guarantee that it wont happen again soon, and not many garages wish to take that risk.

the problem of HGF is caused, in my view, by three main reasons.
1) lack of cooling to the rear bank of a transverse mounted V engine.
2) the cooling sensors being mounted in the worst possible place (the return from the radiator and not the exit from the engine).
3) poor water flow within the block, causing cavitation within the coolant flow, which can still occur after the engine is turned off.

I have always maintained that two fixes could be introduced to reduce the likelyhood of these problems
1) an EWP (electric water pump) that is enabled to run after the engine stops, until the coolant is down to a reasonable temperature.
2) reposition the coolant sensor to the engine water exit position, so that it reads the maximum engine coolant temperature, and not the affectiveness of the cooling radiator.

We have had these discussions many times on lZ.