WTF 2 days and 7 hours in!

Brown said:

Hmm. That could be a difficult one. You might have to take the transfer box off and work on the whole thing on the bench. The centre diff housing also serves as the shaft on which the final drive gears of the transfer box are located. There's a splined slider that moves fore and aft to engage the larger or smaller of the gears to give you the two speeds in the transfer box. This has a groove in it that has a fork which is linked to the high and low range lever. It's easy to accidentally drop one of the gears or get the fork out of its groove. Once you've got it out, it's pretty easy to work out how it should go back together. I don't think I even looked at the manual when I was doing mine, it's so intuitive. The other thing you can do while the transfer box is out is replace the seals on the intermediate shaft, which are often a source of oil leaks. They're an O ring type affair that doesn't last for ever.

I know it sounds like a lot of work to take the transfer box off, but it will be easier to work on it out of the vehicle than spending hours lying on your back in the oil and mud with no guarantee of success.

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Brown said:

If the centre diff has moved forwards when you took the nose piece off the transfer box then, yes, it will sag because there's nothing holding the gears up, irrespective of how much wear there is.
It'll be a good opportunity to have a look at the cogs and see if the tooth profile is still reasonably symmetrical and they don't all look like circular saw, or if there are any steps worn in them. You can get replacement gear sets for them in a variety of ratios if you really want to go to town, but in my experience they last pretty well if there's been enough oil in the box.

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classic888 said:

Thanks for that. Is there a measurement of how far the diff set should protrude and is it possible to push them back it situ?

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Brown said:

The diff is on tapered roller bearings, one in the nose and one on the main part of the transfer case itself. The shoulders up against which they sit are machined so that when the nose cone is bolted up tight against the main transfer box the bearings are just the right distance apart. There are some different thicknesses of spacer you can get to take up any slack but I've never needed them myself. It's not like piston protrusion where the manual says how much they should stick out! As I said earlier I suspect that what's happened is that the gear wheels have dropped a bit when the diff moved forwards, or the splined slider has slipped out of the selector yoke. The diff casing also serves as the shaft on which they sit, so there's noting else holding them in position. There's some quite nice pictures showing what the innards look like here
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...er-box-1-4-ratio-22d-recently-rebuilt.324997/

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