Wont turn over

Has anybody else come across this have a 1997 300tdi auto no spider box.

Alarm and immobiliser working ok but turn the key and nothing plenty off power in battery and had boost pack on, power is at starter motor.

If I give the relay a earth it will turn over but will not start

this thing Is really starting to drive me nuts

When I try to start it check engine like comes on dim

Iffy auto selector inhibitor switch maybe or your engine is immobilised..

thanks

checked auto switch that's ok

but check engine light comes really dim

Check all main earths. Have you tried it with a jump lead from battery earth to main engine block ?

spuggy said:

thanks

checked auto switch that's ok

but check engine light comes really dim

Click to expand...

I haven't a clue what a the 'check engine' light means on a diesel-engine, but when any light is on but dim it usually can be traced to a bad earth connection somewhere, it may not be it but it needs to be checked only to dismiss it, an iffy earth "maybe" your reason for the engine not turning over.

yes tried to boost using engine block no change

agree I think It could be iffy earth somewhere but 2 weeks now trying to get this thing started, pulled that much hair out nearly bald lol

Stop solenoid wire checked ?

Thinking on it, yours, as it doesn't have the spider but may have the DDS immobilization fitted.

I've not worked on these, but as far as I know it's located on back of fuel pump over stop solenoid it has 'security' bolts but someone like Ratty might know more.

Anyway, if you 'remove' the DDS unit with a chisel and put the black and purple wire straight to the terminal on the solenoid it works - so says the boy in the café. , but seriously it won't hurt to check the wiring to and from the thing.

this is how to do it with a spider, it can't be too difficult with the other thing - can it ?
The Definitive Alarm Spider Post - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

Dragonwalker said:

Stop solenoid wire checked ?

Thinking on it, yours, as it doesn't have the spider but may have the DDS immobilization fitted.

I've not worked on these, but as far as I know it's located on back of fuel pump over stop solenoid it has 'security' bolts but someone like Ratty might know more.

Anyway, if you 'remove' the DDS unit with a chisel and put the black and purple wire straight to the terminal on the solenoid it works - so says the boy in the café. , but seriously it won't hurt to check the wiring to and from the thing.

this is how to do it with a spider, it can't be too difficult with the other thing - can it ?
The Definitive Alarm Spider Post - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

Click to expand...

thanks

but mine doesn't have dds on it did check that it has normal stop solenoid but it is EDC model

I have changed the alarm box and key fob and coded it back in as thought it may be the green alarm box but still same fault

spuggy said:

thanks

but mine doesn't have dds on it did check that it has normal stop solenoid but it is EDC model

I have changed the alarm box and key fob and coded it back in as thought it may be the green alarm box but still same fault

Click to expand...

Immobilisation in EDC engines is via the engine ECU.

Have you checked the fob, should be a 2-button jobbie ?

Just a little note how to check is it the fob: separate the fob from key, open the fob (to see what is inside it), insert the key into ignition, turn the key (red light in the centre of the dash because ECU is blocking the engine, heater plugs work), now press with your thumb on the battery case (battery is inside of course) and while holding the battery pressed move the fob closer to the ignition key (should move quite close).
If the red light does not disappear - press closer to the soldering on the battery case.

and if it isn't the earths check the feeds - not unheard of on a Landy

Dragonwalker said:

Immobilisation in EDC engines is via the engine ECU.

Have you checked the fob, should be a 2-button jobbie ?

Just a little note how to check is it the fob: separate the fob from key, open the fob (to see what is inside it), insert the key into ignition, turn the key (red light in the centre of the dash because ECU is blocking the engine, heater plugs work), now press with your thumb on the battery case (battery is inside of course) and while holding the battery pressed move the fob closer to the ignition key (should move quite close).
If the red light does not disappear - press closer to the soldering on the battery case.

and if it isn't the earths check the feeds - not unheard of on a Landy

Click to expand...

thanks will have another try today with it

one other thing cant run diagnostics as it wont talk to lap top or code readers is this a common problem on discos

Older landrover disco will not talk to most generic code readers get access to T4, lynx, nanocom or hawkeye

thanks for all advice

think it must be a wiring issue even swapped ecu no difference so going to pull loom out and start from scratch see if I can find any issues

thanks to everyone for the advice given, all sorted now.

took EDC pump :violent:
and changed it for standard non EDC pump, starts and runs great now

was it much of a job .

tolley said:

was it much of a job .

Click to expand...

That's a question for the OP spuggy correct? If so don't hold your breath as their last activity in the Forum was December 2014.