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Series 3 Won't start up!

Discussion in 'Series Land Rovers' started by Jake P, Jan 14, 2020.

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  1. Jake P

    Jake P Member

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    Hey all, new here!
    So I bought my first landy a few weeks ago. Series III swb 2.25 diesel. At first it was firing up nicely, however a few days later the starter sounded weaker and the engine wouldn't fire up. Managed to jumpstart on multiple occasions so I thought it must be the battery. Got a bigger one (100ah 850A) but still no luck.
    Thinking perhaps that the starter wasn't earthed properly i ran a negative wire from the battery to the starter and from the starter to the chassis. After this, the starter worked brilliantly and engine fired up nicely. A day later, same problem with the starter "dying out".
    Anything else I can try before blaming the starter? Thanks
     
  2. Rodeo Joe

    Rodeo Joe Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like the starters sluggish, if it's well earthed and got good power to it it probably needs an overhaul or replacing.
    Try shorting across the starter solenoid with a big screwdriver to rule out ignition switch problems.
     
  3. kermit_rr

    kermit_rr Can't Really Re-Member Full Member

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    Sounds like you have proven the starter is ok
    Check the leads to and from starter, they can be corroded at any point along the cable
     
  4. Colthebrummie

    Colthebrummie Well-Known Member

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    I have this problem with my series 3. I've put a new battery on, new starter, new earth leads etc. I have found that there is a power drain somewhere so I now disconnect the battery if I'm not using it for a few days. I suspect the issue is with the alternator so I bought a new one but unfortunately, I can't remember where I put the damn thing. I definately need to tidy up my garage and thin out my spare parts.

    Col
     
  5. Jake P

    Jake P Member

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    Hi, thanks will try and do this to rule out ignition problems tonight
     
  6. Jake P

    Jake P Member

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    Hi, thanks will try and do this to rule out ignition problems tonight
     
  7. Bobsticle

    Bobsticle De Villes Advocaat

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    Make sure your heater plugs are working. Indirect injection needs them on every cold start. There are a few different types and often the wrong ones have been fitted.
    With good plugs it should fire within a couple of turns.
     
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  8. Rodeo Joe

    Rodeo Joe Well-Known Member

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    Yes I was thinking that with a bit of heat it should only take a couple of cranks to fire up, if it's taking a lot of cranking then maybe the heater plugs are not all working.
     
  9. Bobsticle

    Bobsticle De Villes Advocaat

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    It would be one of the first things I’d check. Then once fired up and idling I’d be listening for the ‘chuff’. If it has the odd miss (sounds like the chuff of a steam engine) now and then, the timing needs adjusting. That’s another starting issue. The further out the timing, the longer it takes to fire up.
    Always check the valve gaps though before adjusting timing.
     
  10. Jake P

    Jake P Member

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    Lets say my alternator is not working, could this affect the startup in any way?
    Thanks!
     
  11. Jake P

    Jake P Member

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    The heater plugs are connected in series, so if one went bad, wouldn't all? Hence I would never start it, but sometimes it starts. Soooo would this rule out the plugs?
     
  12. Jake P

    Jake P Member

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    Ok thanks!
     
  13. Jake P

    Jake P Member

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    Thanks for the help guys!
     
  14. Bobsticle

    Bobsticle De Villes Advocaat

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    They are confusing little sods. They all look like they should work. Try and post a photo of them and the connection to the coil if there is one.
    It’s how the ring connects to the plug that’s the give away. Old ones are controlled by one independent resistor. Modern ones have a resistor built into each plug.
     
  15. Jake P

    Jake P Member

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    Ahh I see, I'll upload a photo later on today when I'm back home :) thanks
     
  16. Bobsticle

    Bobsticle De Villes Advocaat

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    Mine also depend on the day. Damp cold days I have to hold the ignition key for over 30 seconds before engaging the starter. Warm days I can get away with up to 30.
    You soon get used to how long they take.
     
  17. Jake P

    Jake P Member

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    true, still have to get used to mine i guess
     
  18. steve2286w

    steve2286w Well-Known Member

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    I would test the voltage when fully charged and see if it turns over quick with and without the additional earths
    And same test next day
    With everything turned off remove a battery lead and touch against battery post , if it sparks that shows you have a current flow/ possible short which needs investigating
    Cleaning the connections on the solenoid and earths good thing to do
    Check glow plugs as mentioned above , I upgraded mine to parallel, simpler wiring too as easy to short other ones out
    if it does not start when turning over quick it could be air leaks in the fuel lines , you can still, start with duff glow plugs but may take more cranking
     
  19. rob1miles

    rob1miles Well-Known Member

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    Clena up the battery leads on the terminals and also where the lead goes inot the terminal. Do the same for the earths and starter / solenoid connections. They carry a lot of current and it is possible that cleaning the earth and the new battery have just shifted the problem to another connection.
     
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  20. Jake P

    Jake P Member

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    Thanks Steve! I passed a copper wire from the positive terminal to the connections on the glow plugs (I think I did it correctly) and they all made a spark. I think they are working ok but I'll get them checked out still. More so the starter is turning reallyyy slow or nothing. So I passed a direct lead from the positive terminal of the battery to the starter directly. Starter didn't turn at all. So I guess, starter needs checking then right?
     
  21. Jake P

    Jake P Member

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    This is the glow plug
     

    Attached Files:

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