sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,118
- Location
- Arad/Romania
So at least that's ruled out then... go further as i explained, i dont envy you with this fault
Disco 2 Won’t bloody start!!
- Thread starter 02Disco2
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 31,386
- Location
- North Shropshire
Have you checked the cables? Ie used jump cables.. one direct the the starter and one from engine to battery earth?
It could be a relay or cable getting very hot and breaking down internally that drops the connection
As for measuring the voltage while cranking, you need to use a multimeter on the battery, the nanocom doesn't update quick enough to give you a reading
If you can't do that then measure the voltage with main beam headlights on
It could be a relay or cable getting very hot and breaking down internally that drops the connection
As for measuring the voltage while cranking, you need to use a multimeter on the battery, the nanocom doesn't update quick enough to give you a reading
If you can't do that then measure the voltage with main beam headlights on
- Posts
- 41,216
- Location
- East Dorset
+1^
I'd do more or less exactly this, disconnect the wire from any electronic box of tricks that is supposed to trigger the starter motor, turn the key to "ignition on", then connect positive from the batt direct to the connection on the starter to get it to turn the engine over and hopefully start it.
If this works then you know for a fact that the problem lies between the ignition switch and the starter via whatever ECMs etc there are linked to it.
And the best of British with finding it.
I'd do more or less exactly this, disconnect the wire from any electronic box of tricks that is supposed to trigger the starter motor, turn the key to "ignition on", then connect positive from the batt direct to the connection on the starter to get it to turn the engine over and hopefully start it.
If this works then you know for a fact that the problem lies between the ignition switch and the starter via whatever ECMs etc there are linked to it.
And the best of British with finding it.
- Posts
- 31,386
- Location
- North Shropshire
I'd try just getting it to turn over without starting, first. One thing at a time.
- Posts
- 41,216
- Location
- East Dorset
We know that when it is playing ball it'll start!!
I did say " to get it to turn the engine over and hopefully start it." He can ignore the last 4 words if he has no spirit of adventure!!
What I am concerned about is someone trying this but leaving the connection to the starter in place which would then send 12V back up the wire to some electronic box of tricks and probably fry summat!
Well after not being able to start it (despite trying) for days, I attempted to demonstrate the issue to a friend and it started first time - I give up!! Haven’t tried again yet, will do that when I have a bit more patience and try the negative/jump lead suggestion.
Happy Christmas all!
Happy Christmas all!
- Posts
- 41,216
- Location
- East Dorset
Tell us, does it get particularly damp inside your Disco? And does the "not starting" or the starting coincide with the damp or lack of it?
Wondering if damp is getting into the ECM or ignition switch.
Good idea, but if it was getting damp would it dry out at all in this weather ??
It is a very strange one though. Intermittent starting would definitely make me think ignition or starter motor issues.
The starter motor is brand new. And oem. I fitted it about 3 weeks ago
@Stanleysteamer - no doesn’t get damp inside. The only thing I have noticed is that when it’s cold it’s seemed to start more consistently. But that might just be me imagining things!
- Posts
- 41,216
- Location
- East Dorset
As I mentioned before, maybe a dry joint on a circuit board, but then I am no electrickeryitian.
As an electrician..... I can see the dash panel is losing power once the key is turned to crank it. It does look like a high resistance joint somewhere.... If you have a willing assistant, and a multimeter, the first thing I'd do to rule out a poor connection on the high current feed to the starter. Put one lead on the +ve starter terminal, and the other lead on the chassis ground. You should see around 12v dc. Get someone to turn the key and see if the 12v drops out when it tries to crank.... I'd also try pulling off the starter relay input, which fires the solenoid. Try cranking again, and see if the dash power dies when the key is turned. It wont crank, but you are just checking if its the high current the starter is pulling thats affecting things. That would be the first thing I'd do to rule things out, before moving on to the in depth investigations.
Thanks @tilly2 - will give that a go as soon as I’m back at home and it’s stopped raining!
Haven’t had the time or a chance to do anything more since replacing the fuse box but I have managed to start it twice - both mornings when it was cold and had been dry overnight…..
Will report back once I’ve tried tilly2’s suggestions and see where that leads me
Haven’t had the time or a chance to do anything more since replacing the fuse box but I have managed to start it twice - both mornings when it was cold and had been dry overnight…..
Will report back once I’ve tried tilly2’s suggestions and see where that leads me
Tried Tilly2’s suggestion. Voltage on initial read is 12v and drops to just over 11.9x on crank. It started 3x today!
Drove it around and power wouldn’t come in properly - very lumpy. Almost like the MAF was malfunctioning
Also noticed what looked like oil slowing dripping down drivers side of engine but think it might actually be a leaking FPR (again).
When I was under the vehicle doing the voltage test (and it wasn’t starting) I could hear the starter spinning up fine
My two options now are; 1) get it to the garage or 2) scrap it
I’m 70:30 in favour of option 2 unfortunately as it’s not been on the road for 3 months now and I’m just running out of time and money to get it working
Drove it around and power wouldn’t come in properly - very lumpy. Almost like the MAF was malfunctioning
Also noticed what looked like oil slowing dripping down drivers side of engine but think it might actually be a leaking FPR (again).
When I was under the vehicle doing the voltage test (and it wasn’t starting) I could hear the starter spinning up fine
My two options now are; 1) get it to the garage or 2) scrap it
I’m 70:30 in favour of option 2 unfortunately as it’s not been on the road for 3 months now and I’m just running out of time and money to get it working
- Posts
- 41,216
- Location
- East Dorset
You can eliminate the MAF immediately simply by unplugging it. It'll run very well on the map the EDM holds.Tried Tilly2’s suggestion. Voltage on initial read is 12v and drops to just over 11.9x on crank. It started 3x today!
Drove it around and power wouldn’t come in properly - very lumpy. Almost like the MAF was malfunctioning
Also noticed what looked like oil slowing dripping down drivers side of engine but think it might actually be a leaking FPR (again).
When I was under the vehicle doing the voltage test (and it wasn’t starting) I could hear the starter spinning up fine
My two options now are; 1) get it to the garage or 2) scrap it
I’m 70:30 in favour of option 2 unfortunately as it’s not been on the road for 3 months now and I’m just running out of time and money to get it working
The Map/Iat on the other hand is more likely to be a problem. And that can be checked out using live data.
But others will come on and scream at you that those are such low voltages you are lucky to get it to crank and run at all!
They will also tell you to check the inside of the red plug on the ECM and inside the ECM itself for oil pollution running down the inside of the insulation of the wires coming from the injection loom.
Still wishing you luck. Seems a real shame to scrap it when you are so near to getting it running properly.
Thats voltage at the starter. Not the batteryYou can eliminate the MAF immediately simply by unplugging it. It'll run very well on the map the EDM holds.
The Map/Iat on the other hand is more likely to be a problem. And that can be checked out using live data.
But others will come on and scream at you that those are such low voltages you are lucky to get it to crank and run at all!
They will also tell you to check the inside of the red plug on the ECM and inside the ECM itself for oil pollution running down the inside of the insulation of the wires coming from the injection loom.
Still wishing you luck. Seems a real shame to scrap it when you are so near to getting it running properly.
It shouldn’t be the MAF as it’s less than a year old and oem. But will check, along with the running figures for MAP/IAFP
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,118
- Location
- Arad/Romania
You've got carried away again with other irrelevant things for an ELECTRICAL FAULT which causes power blackout, the rest is a consequence of that ... i gave you clear instructions what to do here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/won’t-bloody-start.389329/page-3#post-5624239 all you did was to rule out the engine bay fusebox which was agood move then started again with other kind of unusefull tricks... follow that path if you want to get to the bottom of this, everything else is useless at this point
Last edited:
Sorry, I obviously misread your post or didn’t understand fully as I took the engine bay fuse box swap to override the other checks. Will re-read and try again although electrics are not my comfort zone!
Also, I know the lumpy running/lack of power is not the same thing as the invitation issue but as I’d managed to start the car more times than not recently I thought it worth driving it - which was when I noticed the (other) issue.
It’s the same with the leaking FPR - spending time with your head under the thing gives you more time to spot issues like that!!
