Disco 2 Won’t bloody start!!

So decided not to sell the disco and it’s been running well for ages, straight through mot etc etc

But last week it started, well not starting!! Had a similar issue before and it had a new starter

So I’ve;
checked the battery - it’s fine. About a year old bullet battery. Ab

Anyone local with diagnostic??

Where abouts in Hampshire??

Kev

02Disco2 said:

So decided not to sell the disco and it’s been running well for ages, straight through mot etc etc

But last week it started, well not starting!! Had a similar issue before and it had a new starter

So I’ve;
checked the battery - it’s fine. About a year old bullet battery. Ab

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Can you elaborate a bit ?? Can you hear the fuel pump, is it turning over etc.

Badger688 said:

Anyone local with diagnostic??

Where abouts in Hampshire??

Kev

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Near Winchester, fair oak.

I’ve got a Nanocom - no obvious fault codes showing but honestly not sure where to look on it other than that

meego said:

Can you elaborate a bit ?? Can you hear the fuel pump, is it turning over etc.

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Fuel pump is working. It starts to turn then dies.

Not just a “click” - like it’s turned half way and then hits resistance and stops - and all the electrics go dark

I had a similar problem a few years ago?? Was parked near Guildhall Portsmouth! Drove there ok! Went to drive home! No start!! Done 'First Aid' checks!! Nothing seen?? Rang friend! He said 'Try the Relays'!!

One was lose??


Kev

Badger688 said:

I had a similar problem a few years ago?? Was parked near Guildhall Portsmouth! Drove there ok! Went to drive home! No start!! Done 'First Aid' checks!! Nothing seen?? Rang friend! He said 'Try the Relays'!!

One was lose??


Kev

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Ah ok. Thanks Kev
Stupid of me but I hadn’t thought of that. Will give that a go in the morning- can’t be arsed to go out in the rain now!!

Si

update - checked the R1/R2 relays this morning and the fuse for starter and fuel pump - all seem ok - dry and no oil.

then tried to start (from cold ) and started first go - bloody thing! haven't tried again as I'm thinking I'm going to need to be abel to get it going to drive it down to the local garage at some point.

My only other thought at this point is fuel related - the pump is working (I can hear it at least) but maybe a block somewhere? going to remove/replace the diesel filter and see if that bears any fruit.

If anyone has any ideas for specific checks with Nanocom then please shout !

If you think it may be fuel problem?

It may be the Fuel Pressure Regulator??

I know it's frustrating! Took mine 4-5 years to run ok! But you will there!!

Kev

02Disco2 said:

Fuel pump is working. It starts to turn then dies.

Not just a “click” - like it’s turned half way and then hits resistance and stops - and all the electrics go dark

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If it cranks but then dies and no power check the voltage on the battery while turning ignition to crank to see how much it drops cos if it was some problem with the charging system this could have killed the battery. Also make sure that the battery clamps are well tightened and the main earth lead has good contact to the body, charge well the battery before the next attempt and if it starts measure voltage then at idle

Badger688 said:

If you think it may be fuel problem?

It may be the Fuel Pressure Regulator??

I know it's frustrating! Took mine 4-5 years to run ok! But you will there!!

Kev

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It could be but no issue when driving/idling and FPR was replaced last year

sierrafery said:

If it cranks but then dies and no power check the voltage on the battery while turning ignition to crank to see how much it drops cos if it was some problem with the charging system this could have killed the battery. Also make sure that the battery clamps are well tightened and the main earth lead has good contact to the body, charge well the battery before the next attempt and if it starts measure voltage then at idle

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Thank you.
Battery clamps are tight and earth has good contact from what I can see/feel. I’ll get under it at the weekend and disconnect it and clean it up just in case

Voltage at idle - 14.3
Voltage on crank drops from 12.7 ish to around 10.5

Tried to start 3x this morning. 1st and 2nd fine. 3rd - nope!
Battery is charging with my cytex at the moment

10.5V while cranking is low, it might not be enough juice for the ECU to open the injectors... read live engine speed input with nanocom while cranking, it should be above 250 rpm to start

Injector seals if not as above?

sierrafery said:

10.5V while cranking is low, it might not be enough juice for the ECU to open the injectors... read live engine speed input with nanocom while cranking, it should be above 250 rpm to start

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I’m going to need to record as it changes too quickly when watching it “live” - seems to go from 0 to 850 pretty instantly when I turn the key - ironically it started fine just then!

Checking Nanocom 2 faults have now registered;
3.7 - air flow circuit logged high
19.6 - noisy crank signal has been detected

02Disco2 said:

19.6 - noisy crank signal has been detected

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Now that's one which can mix up the starting bad...it can be caused by the crank sensor, it's wiring or the starter motor disturbs the signal while cranking, quite common

seems to go from 0 to 850 pretty instantly when I turn the key

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i meant to read it while cranking when it doesnt start obviously

I was starting to suspect a crank sensor issue !! Not too expensive or hard to swap out.

meego said:

I was starting to suspect a crank sensor issue !! Not too expensive or hard to swap out.

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Where is it mounted, just for future reference?

Spong said:

Where is it mounted, just for future reference?

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Side of the bell housing drivers side.

meego said:

Side of the bell housing drivers side.

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Ta.