Disco 2 Won’t bloody start!!

02Disco2 said:

Thanks! (And thank you to everyone that has replied so far).

Will try to fit CPS this weekend and try that. I’ll also record the non-start again with the Nanocom and see if I can get better readings and post here

Injector deals was mentioned so will consider those too - the write up on discovery2.co.uk is really detailed for that so I may give it a go when I have time and the rain holds off but will need a few more tools before I tackle that one!

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Theres a lot I didn't do on that write up.

I removed the valve cover and rocker shaft, I did not loosen the rocker adjusters, just take the whole thing out.
Did not lock the camshaft in place etc etc.
Removed viscous fan to be able to rotate engine.

I got the injectors out using a interior trim clip removal tool, or a small crowbar that fits in there to just give a small gentle nudge to loosen the injector. Something bent from the tip.

Dervishi said:

Theres a lot I didn't do on that write up.

I removed the valve cover and rocker shaft, I did not loosen the rocker adjusters, just take the whole thing out.
Did not lock the camshaft in place etc etc.
Removed viscous fan to be able to rotate engine.

I got the injectors out using an interior trim clip removal tool, or a small crowbar that fits in there to just give a small gentle nudge to loosen the injector. Something bent from the tip.

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Ah thanks. I’ll bear that in mind. It did look pretty involved!!
Going to replace CPS and injector harness first as far more simple then tackle the seals as as next step if needed!

update from today

New injector harness fitted - no change!! started 2/3 times and wont start again now. Seems to be ok when cold which is odd.

Haven't managed to do the CPS yet as I cant easily get to the sodding thing so thats, possibly, a job for the weekend when I've got a bit more time

As it starts better when cold, could it be something as simple as the temp sender that goes to the ECU?
I don't know if disconnecting it would allow it to start, i.e. whether the ECU would snap to a known average map or something. @sierrafery would know that I expect.

Stanleysteamer said:

As it starts better when cold, could it be something as simple as the temp sender that goes to the ECU?
I don't know if disconnecting it would allow it to start, i.e. whether the ECU would snap to a known average map or something. @sierrafery would know that I expect.

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Hmm. It’s a thought. My head keeps going to something related to fueling on startup, almost like it doesn’t get the fuel in the engine to kick in - but I don’t know what as when it’s running it’s fine.
Sometimes holding the key in pos3 forces it start but other times it goes “dark” and electrics are effectively dead. Or it starts on the button!!

It would be boring if it was easy I guess!

02Disco2 said:

update from today

New injector harness fitted - no change!! started 2/3 times and wont start again now. Seems to be ok when cold which is odd.

Haven't managed to do the CPS yet as I cant easily get to the sodding thing so thats, possibly, a job for the weekend when I've got a bit more time

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so tell the rpm while cranking without "fire" and the battery voltage at the same time on instrument mode

02Disco2 said:

Hmm. It’s a thought. My head keeps going to something related to fueling on startup, almost like it doesn’t get the fuel in the engine to kick in - but I don’t know what as when it’s running it’s fine.
Sometimes holding the key in pos3 forces it start but other times it goes “dark” and electrics are effectively dead. Or it starts on the button!!

It would be boring if it was easy I guess!

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Have you had a good look at the ignition switch? I know I've said this before.
It really isn't too tricky to take apart and you don't need special tools.
There are threads on here. I've done it and commented on it, I'm not sure I actually put a thread up.

Your lights going "dark" is deffo nothing top do with fuelling.

The other thing that crosses my mind is a dry joint on a circuit board somewhere that closes when cold but opens up when hot, not unheard of. That I suppose would be sadly more likely to be in the ECU or summat.

Stanleysteamer said:

Have you had a good look at the ignition switch? I know I've said this before.
It really isn't too tricky to take apart and you don't need special tools.
There are threads on here. I've done it and commented on it, I'm not sure I actually put a thread up.

Your lights going "dark" is deffo nothing top do with fuelling.

The other thing that crosses my mind is a dry joint on a circuit board somewhere that closes when cold but opens up when hot, not unheard of. That I suppose would be sadly more likely to be in the ECU or summat.

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I haven’t no. I’ll get the readings from the Nanocom for SF and then have a look at that next. I may post a video of it as it might trigger an “oh” moment for someone!!

Thanks for all the help so far chaps

Right. Here’s a video of starting attempts. Will not start today at all!! Nanocom file attached

Video is a bit large so hoping this works - had to zip it up!! will try a shared link too

OK, only now it's crystal what's going on... in the whole discussion i didnt realise that it dies while cranking that's why i insisted to see the rpm WHILE CRANKING but this can't be named as cranking. That's a pure eletrical fault, can be a bad contact within the engine bay fusebox or in it's connections to main feed or the vehicle's main earth(provided the earth to negative lead is OK. Forget about everything else

sierrafery said:

OK, only now it's crystal what's going on... in the whole discussion i didnt realise that it dies while cranking that's why i insisted to see the rpm WHILE CRANKING but this can't be named as cranking. That's a pure eletrical fault, can be a bad contact within the engine bay fusebox or in it's connections to main feed or the vehicle's main earth(provided the earth to negative lead is OK. Forget about everything else

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Ok makes sense. Thanks SF. I’ll go back around the negative connections again and also check fuse connections

02Disco2 said:

Ok makes sense. Thanks SF. I’ll go back around the negative connections again and also check fuse connections

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If you dont find anything would be good to replace the fusebox

sierrafery said:

If you dont find anything would be good to replace the fusebox

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I take it you mean the engine bay fuse box?
Fuses “appear” clean and intact in engine bay and no oil that I can see. I’ve just cleaned up the 3 earth points in the engine bay and the battery negative lead but no change. Will have another look at the main earth point underneath tomorrow and try to hunt down the ignition earth/connection too just in case

02Disco2 said:

I take it you mean the engine bay fuse box?

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You quoted my previous reply where it's mentioned

sierrafery said:

You quoted my previous reply where it's mentioned

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Sorry! Been a long day already!!

After you ruled out the earth some troubleshootng is needed to not replace a fusebox in vain even though it's simpler to rule it by replaceing it...
so do the following: turn ignition on 2(not crank) then
1. aply a live 12V with a wire directly to fuse F23 interior fusebox, you can take the live from the front brown connector's brown wire...if it works that way
2. bridge the brown and white/red wires in that brown connector in situ, if it works the problem is the ignition switch

if 1 works and 2 not the problem is in the interior fusebox, if no change with with these tricks the engine bay fusebox remains the main suspect unless it's a connection issue between the two fuseboxes and there is still a chance to be a problem in the interior fusebox...to rule this out you have to lift the engine bay fusebox and apply live to C0573-5(whire/red wire) ... it's quite complicated to rule out things this way if you are not very good with electrics, if you are go by the diagram on the ignition crank signal's path.... or replace the engine bay fusebox and if it's not that the interior too. No easy way around such odd intermittent fault. Good luck

sierrafery said:

After you ruled out the earth some troubleshootng is needed to not replace a fusebox in vain even though it's simpler to rule it by replaceing it...
so do the following: turn ignition on 2(not crank) then
1. aply a live 12V with a wire directly to fuse F23 interior fusebox, you can take the live from the front brown connector's brown wire...if it works that way
2. bridge the brown and white/red wires in that brown connector in situ, if it works the problem is the ignition switch

if 1 works and 2 not the problem is in the interior fusebox, if no change with with these tricks the engine bay fusebox remains the main suspect unless it's a connection issue between the two fuseboxes and there is still a chance to be a problem in the interior fusebox...to rule this out you have to lift the engine bay fusebox and apply live to C0573-5(whire/red wire) ... it's quite complicated to rule out things this way if you are not very good with electrics, if you are go by the diagram on the ignition crank signal's path.... or replace the engine bay fusebox and if it's not that the interior too. No easy way around such odd intermittent fault. Good luck

View attachment 304568

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That’s amazing. Thank you - will report back

02Disco2 said:

That’s amazing. Thank you - will report

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sierrafery said:

After you ruled out the earth some troubleshootng is needed to not replace a fusebox in vain even though it's simpler to rule it by replaceing it...
so do the following: turn ignition on 2(not crank) then
1. aply a live 12V with a wire directly to fuse F23 interior fusebox, you can take the live from the front brown connector's brown wire...if it works that way
2. bridge the brown and white/red wires in that brown connector in situ, if it works the problem is the ignition switch

if 1 works and 2 not the problem is in the interior fusebox, if no change with with these tricks the engine bay fusebox remains the main suspect unless it's a connection issue between the two fuseboxes and there is still a chance to be a problem in the interior fusebox...to rule this out you have to lift the engine bay fusebox and apply live to C0573-5(whire/red wire) ... it's quite complicated to rule out things this way if you are not very good with electrics, if you are go by the diagram on the ignition crank signal's path.... or replace the engine bay fusebox and if it's not that the interior too. No easy way around such odd intermittent fault. Good luck

View attachment 304568

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Just to update. I’ve checked and cleaned the negative connections (no difference) and completely replaced the engine fuse box - no difference.

The only thing that seems to be consistent now is that it won’t start no matter how many times I try!!

02Disco2 said:

Just to update. I’ve checked and cleaned the negative connections (no difference) and completely replaced the engine fuse box - no difference.

The only thing that seems to be consistent now is that it won’t start no matter how many times I try!!

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Is it still not cranking properly?