Window...I Know, I Know....

From memory the stopping at the top and bottom, plus the anti-trap is a function of amperage....

Now I am not a electrical guy so I don't know the answer, but if Volts goes down with a fixed Resistance, does Amps go up??

I think most stuff is set to 5V or 10V so should work.

What's wrong with the aircon?

Saint.V8 said:

From memory the stopping at the top and bottom, plus the anti-trap is a function of amperage....

Now I am not a electrical guy so I don't know the answer, but if Volts goes down with a fixed Resistance, does Amps go up??

Click to expand...

No. R = V/I

Amps goes up, volts goes up.

Although, power = V x I so if power is constant then as volts drops the amps goes up.

Grrrrrr said:

No. R = V/I

Amps goes up, volts goes up.

Although, power = V x I so if power is constant then as volts drops the amps goes up.

Click to expand...

Incidentally, that is the answer to the alternator conversation we had with Marty a few weeks back. The alternator power output is fixed by the number of coils of wire. So, higher voltage output on the setpoint but same power so amps must drop. @martyuk was right. However, for the components pulling power from the battery if the voltage is higher they will pull more amps too (resistance is constant) so it will stress the fuseboard more. So the other person on that thread (whose name escapes me at the moment with my usual memory for names) was also correct. But obviously the battery needs to charge before it can release that much power.

That's why I'm confused Grrrrrr... Sorry to take your name in vain

The only thing I can imagine is the motor is playing up, but it works on jump wires

The AC needs topped up, I only got the silly cnt "O" rings last night. I will mostly be asking Kenny later today.

Sorry - been flat out the last week with various bits and pieces so haven't been online much at all...

In theory, yes the motor should move with 10V - but it there is a bad connection somewhere along the way for the power of it, then it might show a voltage under no load, but as soon as a load is applied then the voltage might just drop.

The yellow wires are a direct feed back to the BECM for the anti-trap mechanism and to tell it if it's 'set' I haven't looked in to exactly how it works, but I believe it's some kind of hall effect sensor which sends pulses back the the BECM. The Black/Orange wire is a ground for the sensor and comes from the outstation. Yellow wires are the pulses back to the BECM - and according the BECM document I have you should get pulses from 0-12V as the motor is operated on both of those wires. The solid yellow wire is the Anti-Trap 1 feed, and Yellow/Blue is the Anti-Trap 2 feed - which has pulses offset at 90 degrees of motor rotation to the Yellow wire.

So at the moment it sounds like you have something very strange going on alright...

Just to confirm.. You have a constant 10.x V on BOTH of the yellow wires at window motor plug, and you get up to about 9.5V ish on BOTH of the grey wires?

I've dropped you a PM with my number - might be easier to give me a call and we can talk about it... because something really doesn't sound right, given what the specifications for those wires are in the BECM manual I have...

I almost wonder if there is a problem in the door wiring loom, where some of the wires are shorting together - but give me a call at some point and we can try and figure it out... you're a bit far away to just 'pop over' for me to take a look

Marty

This problem does sound like a wiring issue.

Have you had the connector out between the body & door. It sits just inside the body side of the door. You could have an earth problem, & as these vehicles are switched earth, I'd have that loom out & look for a near on broken wire.

Do you get any message on the display when you press the up position on the drivers window?

Ok chaps, here at last are the pictures of the fun I had

Tools required




Lets find this fault....



All the way from the door, through the "A" pillar, round the fuel shut off (crash) switch and along the door step....




...and finally into the BECM itself

Which is when I found it, but boy did I have to squint to see the corrosion

Nothing to see here...




Ahh, but look closely at the bottom left and you can only just make out a teeny weeny bit of crud



The only thing I can think of is the corrosion was allowing current through, that is until I decided to try and "set" the window by holding the button down/up for the count of 10. The extra demands overheated the connection and caused a resistance problem.

Fixed & working now though

Next, the rear wiper motor needs a new seal

Well done that man!

Pete

Pete The Biker said:

Well done that man!

Pete

Click to expand...

Thanks Pete, it was a real head scratcher that one! The fact everything else worked and all the door & "A" pillar connections were immaculate threw me.

I meant to add, I also bent the pin to that connector ever so slightly to make a tighter connection when the plug was back together.

The damp is from the carpet right where it meets the plastic and has likely been there for ages. With me using the car, condensation formed and a problem was born.

I have been advised to use a sock full of cat litter to soak up the little bit of damp. I use these damp collector things in my old caravan. They are good too.

I checked for heater matrix leaks, but none found. However, there is a coolant leak, but i traced it to the throttle body where there is a weep. It's not enough to concern me and I check the coolant every week along with oil and always before a long journey.

Funny thing is there is no engine oil leaks but on Disney Cars, Tow Mator says about "Ol Bridish enjines, if there aint no oil under it, there aint no oil in it!"

Have I bought a lemon