Whistling TD5

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albinoni

New Member
Posts
84
Hi,
A few days ago, my LR started to whistle. It sort of rises with the revs (when driven or stationary) then dies down when the revs are let off. It sometimes sounds a bit like a sort of wet warbly whistle - but that might just be my imagination?
I took it in to a landrover garage and they checked for a split in the exhaust pipe and checked the waste gate arm (movement) and listened to it but strangely you can't hear anything under the bonnet, only when you sit inside or drive it and then it's loud.
There's also no loss of power!
I've searched the forum and found some really good stuff e.g. split flexible downpipe on the oldr mesh ones and mine looks like a metal mesh filter thing also the split hose, but mechanic said that would cause a loss of power so probably not that. Also checked the airfilter to make sure it's shutting properly - that seems ok.
Could it be that the Turbo has just gone noisy?
Anyhow - any ideas or suggestions would be great.
Cheers
Andy
 
Sounds likely to be the Exhaust manifold gasket screeching. Check that all the studs are in one piece. I have just had the same thing, found 1 stud snapped and just repaired it today. mine got worse pretty quick too. (1000 miles ish from 1st whistling)
 
Sounds likely to be the Exhaust manifold gasket screeching. Check that all the studs are in one piece. I have just had the same thing, found 1 stud snapped and just repaired it today. mine got worse pretty quick too. (1000 miles ish from 1st whistling)


Cheers - I'll check that tomorrow.
 
Just checked the exhaust manifold - all the nuts seem ok - do you have to try them with a spanner to see if they have sheared - or can you tell looking?
Also, if I wrap some tape round the mesh downpipe bit on the exhaust, would that stop whistling (just as a test)
Cheers
 
Back one on no5 cylinder, you can just get a 13mm spanner under the manifold, IT will move and you will be well chuffed, BUT it will start again and you will find its loose again, this is because the manifold has warped and is pulling the stud out of the head.
In the end i modded my manifold, i cut all the webbing out between the ports, cleaned it up with a die grinder, drilled all the mounting holes out to 10mm bar one each end, i also used renault 19 ex manifold nuts as they had built in washers allowing movement.
I never had any more bothers after this, was tuned right up and often saw 900 degc on the thermocouple gauge.


Lynall
 
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Just checked the exhaust manifold - all the nuts seem ok - do you have to try them with a spanner to see if they have sheared - or can you tell looking?
Also, if I wrap some tape round the mesh downpipe bit on the exhaust, would that stop whistling (just as a test)
Cheers

The one I found only broke off with a socket, it felt ok with fingers.

I've done a temp fix on mine until I put a new down pipe on in the new year. I left the manifold on, made a bush to fit the hole in the manifold where the stud should be, with 3.5mm hole down the middle. Drilled 24mm deep (advised by Stainless in this thread)

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f50/exhaust-manifold-studs-169668.html

Then opened up to 8.5 and Helicoiled 8mm and fitted High Tensile stud. Home made of course:D Mine had got pretty bad and its almost perfect now. It will need a new gasket and I will probably just Helicoil the lot, and grind the webs out when the Manifold is off. Mines re-mapped too so best to be sure:D:D
 
Thanks guys - checked the nuts and they seem okay. The strange thing is that it's really obvious in the car when stainary or driving, but can't hear a thing under the bonnet. Surely if it was turbo or manifold then you'd hear it undef the bonnet?
I'll get the mrs to rev it up tomorrow and crawl underneath, see if it's under there somewhere.
 
Back one on no5 cylinder, you can just get a 13mm spanner under the manifold, IT will move and you will be well chuffed, BUT it will start again and you will find its loose again, this is because the manifold has warped and is pulling the stud out of the head.
In the end i modded my manifold, i cut all the webbing out between the ports, cleaned it up with a die grinder, drilled all the mounting holes out to 10mm bar one each end, i also used renault 19 ex manifold nuts as they had built in washers allowing movement.
I never had any more bothers after this, was tuned right up and often saw 900 degc on the thermocouple gauge.


Lynall

Spent a few hours tonight getting to the manifold bolts 0 the 10mm 'hidden' nut holding the heat shield on, rounded off, so i had to drill the rivets out - why does the last nut never come off????
Anyhow, tried all the manifold nuts with a socket and they all feel really tight - not sure which cylinder 5 is? Would one move quite easily if it was knackerd ? I didn't want to put too much strain on them.
Any more ideas if it isn't the manifold? Checked air filter and pipes to cylinder head and turbo?
Cheers
 
Cylinder 1 is the one nearest the radiator and 5 is the one nearest to the bulkhead.

If the nuts feel tight, leave them!
 
Thanks oldseadog - what is a spradge coupling nut and where would I find it? Cheers
Next to the Wind-up Spurge Valve! Obvious really!! :D:D:D

Sorry, just realised that you have a TD5, so they might have been fitted as an optional extra ... Highly unlikely though! ;);)

Whatever you do, have a Happy Christmas.
 
Next to the Wind-up Spurge Valve! Obvious really!! :D:D:D

Sorry, just realised that you have a TD5, so they might have been fitted as an optional extra ... Highly unlikely though! ;);)

Whatever you do, have a Happy Christmas.

Nice one seadog - i did wonder - honest! lol
Have a nice xmas yerself!
 
Just a quick update for anyone struggling to find a td5 whistle - whistle was coming from the exhaust to exhaust joint - rust had forced it apart slightly, so had the bolts ground off, cleaned up joint, sealed new nuts and bolts and good as new (old) :)
 
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