Whine when accelerating?

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Hi Wammers,
Driving back tonight it was definitely more rumble than whine. Will get me good friend to check the t/box output bearing (if he hasn't already done this). But front diff the pinion bearings where definitely flapping on the old unit, so that has cancelled that one out.

So down to I believe, viscous coupling (if that is the one attached to the fan), t/box output bearing, taking off props etc(as per jamesmartin post).

This is a full time job doing this, I think after this there shouldn't be anything else going wrong for a long time (said very quietly!!) You guys must have big pockets??????
:5bbanghead:

So what your saying is you still have the same noise you had in the begining. Is that correct or has the whine on acceleration now gone?
 
Think he means the viscous coupling in the transfer box. You can write on here and describe what you think is a whine and rumble and get nowhere. All people on here can do is point out what it maybe. Get someone who knows what they are about to listen to it for you, a proper mechanic will tell you what it is in a few minutes.

You are totally right as at the moment just flinging money at it and getting nowhere - my friend is not a trained landy mechanic but an enthusiast - and doing his best. The only one we have here is one that I wouldn't go back to unless I was really stuck. He put a CV joint in without greasing it replacing parts with inferior secondhand ones and charging a fortune, so not too keen!

Any of you trained Landy mechos fancy a holiday?:D
 
So what your saying is you still have the same noise you had in the begining. Is that correct or has the whine on acceleration now gone?

No same whine/rumble noise on the acceleration.
So just trying to get some good answers to see where we go next.

Steve who is doing the work, thinks that the next thing to do is take the t/box out and check the chain - so wanted to see if there were any further checks we could do before we do this. i.e rear T/Box output bearing, taking off props etc(as per jamesmartin post).

Plus to find out if it would be better to change the t/box for good 2nd hand/recon one - if we go that way.

Thanks all for helping me out, it is really appreciated!:)
 
No same whine/rumble noise on the acceleration.
So just trying to get some good answers to see where we go next.

Steve who is doing the work, thinks that the next thing to do is take the t/box out and check the chain - so wanted to see if there were any further checks we could do before we do this. i.e rear T/Box output bearing, taking off props etc(as per jamesmartin post).

Plus to find out if it would be better to change the t/box for good 2nd hand/recon one - if we go that way.

Thanks all for helping me out, it is really appreciated!:)

Better to get it on a ramp, axles lifted running in gear and use a stethoscope. You''ll be at it forever and it'll cost a bloody fortune the way it's being gone about. Check the viscous coupling your mechanic should know how to do this. Do you get and chopping turning corners?
 
do props first you got eliminate stuff if you dont no cause to narrow what needs to be changed ,how will he know if chains worn,you could buy t/box for sake of out put brg,one prop at time,and when off check prop aligment ,i seen a lot pull prop joint apart and put back wrong ,rear both yokes same plane front no more than 2 splines,if chains worn the rest of box needs changing as its usually last to be noisy and youd have to change sprockets to
 
No same whine/rumble noise on the acceleration.
So just trying to get some good answers to see where we go next.

Steve who is doing the work, thinks that the next thing to do is take the t/box out and check the chain - so wanted to see if there were any further checks we could do before we do this. i.e rear T/Box output bearing, taking off props etc(as per jamesmartin post).

Plus to find out if it would be better to change the t/box for good 2nd hand/recon one - if we go that way.

Thanks all for helping me out, it is really appreciated!:)

Is this Steve a mechanic?
 
Thanks Wammers and jamesmartin,

Hope I am not annoying you as it must be so difficult to try and understand everyone's problems via post! Trying hard to understand all the jargon. This work has all come about as I want to make a long journey to Holland (9 hours from here) may have to resort to train if I cannot resolve it soon! But really appreciate your sensible opinions! Thanks.

"Better to get it on a ramp, axles lifted running in gear and use a stethoscope. You''ll be at it forever and it'll cost a bloody fortune the way it's being gone about. Check the viscous coupling your mechanic should know how to do this. Do you get and chopping turning corners?" Good idea - Steve hasn't got a ramp, so maybe I have to get it to the LR Mech. What do you mean by chopping turning corners?:confused:

do props first you got eliminate stuff if you dont no cause to narrow what needs to be changed ,how will he know if chains worn,you could buy t/box for sake of out put brg,one prop at time,and when off check prop aligment ,i seen a lot pull prop joint apart and put back wrong ,rear both yokes same plane front no more than 2 splines,if chains worn the rest of box needs changing as its usually last to be noisy and youd have to change sprockets to - this sounds a sensible option too!
 
Is this Steve a mechanic?

Not a trained mechanic but an RRC enthusiast - has an older version of mine and done all his own work. He started doing a few jobs as my partner is away working in Holland, so he can't do! It was convenient for us to use him but when you get problems like this, even Steve is stumped. So maybe after all these posts, it might be better to get the LR Mecho to have a look up on a ramp?
 
You don't need a ramp that would be ideal. But four good axle stands on level ground will do. Just lift and put on stands, run in gear and with a stethoscope you should be able to pick out where the noise is coming from with reasonable certainty. Obviously this has to be done carefully.
 
i enjoy it as you get to think about problems without doing the work ,in the day time i have to do the work as well as think,it can be hard to be exact sometimes as there are the normal problems that get kown and 90% of the time its that but sometimes it isnt ,i had a bloke drive 150 miles to me to fix a clunk on over run on front end as he thought it might be a fault with axle i had reconditioned for him,and so feared i ,we went for a test drive and there was a definate clunk ,it was an apple in empty toolbox under drivers seat in 110 rolling forward,or an other fellow who drove 12hrs from scotland to have salisbury diff done as apparently there was no on nearer that would do them to find that he just needed new drive flanges £10 each but symptoms can be confusing
 
You don't need a ramp that would be ideal. But four good axle stands on level ground will do. Just lift and put on stands, run in gear and with a stethoscope you should be able to pick out where the noise is coming from with reasonable certainty. Obviously this has to be done carefully.

Great I am sure we can do that as Steve has a good garage with level ground. Will have to see how we can get hold of a stethoscope - not sure if Steve has this in his toolkit unless he was a Doctor in another life:D He can do that when he fits the rear exhaust box next week - that is about to drop off!
 
Great I am sure we can do that as Steve has a good garage with level ground. Will have to see how we can get hold of a stethoscope - not sure if Steve has this in his toolkit unless he was a Doctor in another life:D He can do that when he fits the rear exhaust box next week - that is about to drop off!

Using a mechanics stethoscope that you can to some extent reach under with without having to get totally under vehicle may be a good idea. The one that Doctor Kildare used is no good. Unless the Rangie has a bad chest. You can get a proper one for a few quid off eBay.:):):)

PS. With the exhaust knacked and the pinion bearing flopping around like a whippets dick i am surprised you can hear anything else. :D:D:D
 
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i enjoy it as you get to think about problems without doing the work ,in the day time i have to do the work as well as think,it can be hard to be exact sometimes as there are the normal problems that get kown and 90% of the time its that but sometimes it isnt ,i had a bloke drive 150 miles to me to fix a clunk on over run on front end as he thought it might be a fault with axle i had reconditioned for him,and so feared i ,we went for a test drive and there was a definate clunk ,it was an apple in empty toolbox under drivers seat in 110 rolling forward,or an other fellow who drove 12hrs from scotland to have salisbury diff done as apparently there was no on nearer that would do them to find that he just needed new drive flanges £10 each but symptoms can be confusing

Nice to hear you enjoy solving problems! Mine's feels like a needle in a haystack. Love the apple in the toolbox though - that is a classic! I am sure people will drive miles to find a good mechanic and you must be good if he drove 150 miles!:D

Love my RRC - even though she costs a bit to run on the old petrol - now it is up to €1.49/litre here - may have to think of a more economic car especially when I do so much motoring and she drinks it - but so enjoy the V8 roar - who could resist it? Still get people looking at her even though she is a 90 (think they were the best looking models) but try to keep her in tip top condition and well looked after.
 
Using a mechanics stethoscope that you can to some extent reach under with without having to get totally under vehicle may be a good idea. The one that Doctor Kildare used is no good. Unless the Rangie has a bad chest. You can get a proper one for a few quid off eBay.:):):)

PS. With the exhaust knacked and the pinion bearing flopping around like a whippets dick i am surprised you can hear anything else. :D:D:D

Glad I made you laugh wammers, totally unaware that there was a mechanics stethoscope!:D Well the rumble/whine could be a cough - couldn't it?????? Just having a girly moment but thanks for the tip.

Noises - the righthand back window rattling around and the squeak from the dash rubbing against the speaker in the door!!!! What else???? I am getting paranoid about all these noises!


Don't you guys sleep? Well it is 1am here and I think I am going to have to go! Will speak to Steve about what you have all suggested and keep you posted. Ta once again.
 
Glad I made you laugh wammers, totally unaware that there was a mechanics stethoscope!:D Well the rumble/whine could be a cough - couldn't it?????? Just having a girly moment but thanks for the tip.

Noises - the righthand back window rattling around and the squeak from the dash rubbing against the speaker in the door!!!! What else???? I am getting paranoid about all these noises!


Don't you guys sleep? Well it is 1am here and I think I am going to have to go! Will speak to Steve about what you have all suggested and keep you posted. Ta once again.

There are lots of people on here that make me laugh Eddie. :D:D:D
 
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