Which uni joint

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13er

13er

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Ireland
Hi all so after a bit of work i have a working epb etc but I still have a metallic clatter at the rear at times, I have decided to replace the universal joint on the rear prop shaft but I'm also having trouble deciding if the clank is on diff side or prop im just chancing its the uni joint on the prop as it seems common even though the prop seems in good order otherwise ( hoping it's not the diff ) could anybody be good enough to tell me exactly what U joint Is needed where prop meets rear diff is it the 27× 80 mm one? And also and trick to tell if I've a duff diff when I pull the rear prop out of it ? thanks in advance
 
Last edited:
13er said:
Hi all so after a bit of work i have a working epb etc but I still have a metallic clatter at the rear at times, I have decided to replace the universal joint on the rear prop shaft but I'm also having trouble deciding if the clank is on diff side or prop im just chancing its the uni joint on the prop as it seems common even though the prop seems in good order otherwise ( hoping it's not the diff ) could anybody be good enough to tell me exactly what U joint Is needed where prop meets rear diff is it the 27× 80 mm one? And also and trick to tell if I've a duff diff when I pull the rear prop out of it ? thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Have you not taken the prop off the diff to really check the U/J out?
If you do you should be able to tell straight away if there is play in it.
When it's off give the flange to the diff a damn good wiggle in all directions, including in and out, to see if there is play there either, and also to see how much play there is before drive takes up on the half-shafts.
It could be a bush somewhere between the drive and the body work. So check them too.
Also check nothing has moved or come adrift like the exhaust and isn't clanging into either the prop or anything else as you drive over bumps, or swing round corners, or start off, or brake.
Don't have a D3 so not in touch with the driveline, but this info should work for any vehicle with a driven rear end, or front for that matter, except the exhaust obvs.
 
Thanks Stanley no haven't had the prop out , there's a very tiny bit of side to side movement on drivers rear wheel and I can see movement where rear control arm attaches to bottom of hub but can't see that causing the racket that can occur when pushing through on the revs , I'm pretty sure it's the uni joint where prop meets diff as it clanks a bit when I turn rear wheels but I'm actually not sure what play should be in that joint at end of prop when I do take it off to inspect, I'm taking it there should be little to no play on it at all then ?
 
13er said:
Thanks Stanley no haven't had the prop out , there's a very tiny bit of side to side movement on drivers rear wheel and I can see movement where rear control arm attaches to bottom of hub but can't see that causing the racket that can occur when pushing through on the revs , I'm pretty sure it's the uni joint where prop meets diff as it clanks a bit when I turn rear wheels but I'm actually not sure what play should be in that joint at end of prop when I do take it off to inspect, I'm taking it there should be little to no play on it at all then ?
Click to expand...

Once you have the prop off turn the U/J in all directions. There should be no point at which it sticks and it should not move, AT ALL in any longitudinal direction along the axis of any part of the spider. The two parts of the U/J also shouldn't move loosely when you wiggle it. i.e. there should be no play at all. It should just move smoothly in the directions in which it is intended to move.
There may be a demo on youTube or summat. Have a search under "How to test a U/J or universal joint"
 
Are you talking about a conventional UJ or the CV type (i believe you are).

I had a ticking suppose it could have turned into a louder metallic noise you describe.
Get under it and give it a twist, how much movement do you get.
Also think there is a center bush on rear prop, its much the same setup as the 322. And am sure use the same prop joints.

J
 

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13er said:
Thanks Stanley no haven't had the prop out , there's a very tiny bit of side to side movement on drivers rear wheel and I can see movement where rear control arm attaches to bottom of hub but can't see that causing the racket that can occur when pushing through on the revs , I'm pretty sure it's the uni joint where prop meets diff as it clanks a bit when I turn rear wheels but I'm actually not sure what play should be in that joint at end of prop when I do take it off to inspect, I'm taking it there should be little to no play on it at all then ?
Click to expand...
Side to side movement i.e. rocking when the wheel is held at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions implies bearing wear, but I'd expect the ABS light to come on with that, altho that isn't a golden rule. The control arm movement sounds like a bush is worn. Compare both rear wheels and if one has more movement than the other then it really needs sorting.
Sadly the clank could still be in the diff, you won't know until you have separated the prop from the diff. But a clank from a U/J is rare unless it is worn to feck!
 
marjon said:
Are you talking about a conventional UJ or the CV type (i believe you are).

I had a ticking suppose it could have turned into a louder metallic noise you describe.
Get under it and give it a twist, how much movement do you get.
Also think there is a center bush on rear prop, its much the same setup as the 322. And am sure use the same prop joints.

J
Click to expand...
Thanks for stepping in here mate. I obvs don't know the D3 so only going on what you'd call general knowledge.
Centre bushes could well give it!:):):)
 
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