Which type of flare

Hi,

Am I right in thinking

Pipe to rear cylinder - single?
Pipe to flexi hose - double?


Thanks

rickster30 said:

Hi,

Am I right in thinking

Pipe to rear cylinder - single?
Pipe to flexi hose - double?


Thanks

Click to expand...

Yes..that's correct.

Irishrover said:

Yes..that's correct.

Click to expand...

Thanks

rickster30 said:

Hi,

Am I right in thinking

Pipe to rear cylinder - single?
Pipe to flexi hose - double?


Thanks

Click to expand...

just to be sure, single in this case = bubble?

never do a single Y, always do a double. (unless you know what you are doing)

Red is help/ distress. That's all I know

trax said:

just to be sure, single in this case = bubble?

never do a single Y, always do a double. (unless you know what you are doing)

Click to expand...

Am I ok to double flare both ends then!? ie part of pipe that goes into cylinder?

rickster30 said:

Am I ok to double flare both ends then!? ie part of pipe that goes into cylinder?

Click to expand...

:behindsofa:

NO !!.....The seat in the cylinder is machined to accept a single flare and the seal would be compromised if a double flare is used.

With your thinking, you would only need to double flare everything irregardless of the seat type.

I am getting concerned now with your approach to this job and I personally think that you are likely to make what could be a potentially fatal error

Brakes and tyres are the only thing between you and the graveyard and if just carrying on without knowing exactly what you are doing, you should leave the job to someone who does know.

This is nothing personal against you, but I can see a disaster waiting to happen here and that's the best advice I can give you.
Please heed what I say, but no doubt others will comment on this topic who are in a similar frame of mind as myself.

Irishrover said:

:behindsofa:

NO !!.....The seat in the cylinder is machined to accept a single flare and the seal would be compromised if a double flare is used.

With your thinking, you would only need to double flare everything irregardless of the seat type.

I am getting concerned now with your approach to this job and I personally think that you are likely to make what could be a potentially fatal error

Brakes and tyres are the only thing between you and the graveyard and if just carrying on without knowing exactly what you are doing, you should leave the job to someone who does know.

This is nothing personal against you, but I can see a disaster waiting to happen here and that's the best advice I can give you.
Please heed what I say, but no doubt others will comment on this topic who are in a similar frame of mind as myself.

Click to expand...

I have already done pipe with the single flare, my reply was because I misread trax's reply I read up on this and it does use a single flare as you said. It is not on yet as I need to replace flexi hose this week, once done I can put together

#### me, are you still ****ing about with these brakes?

I am all in favour of people learning to work on their cars, but as I said in your other thread, your complete and utter ignorance of the basic mechanical principles of the most important part of your car is....... ah fcuk it.

Carry on.
Good Luck.

confusion comes up because the yanks call the flares differently iirc.

so you could get old school single flares which produce a Y. sometimes you still need them if the seats are designed for them.

other people call a bubble flare a single flare, ie it's not a Y, but a bubble shape.

and a double is when you flare the bubble so you end up with a Y with a double wall thickness.

so depending on who you talk to a single can mean Y or bubble.. there are also lots of other types.. but let's ignore them

btw, also replace the nuts type for type.. ie shoulders without threads are important.

trax said:

confusion comes up because the yanks call the flares differently iirc.

so you could get old school single flares which produce a Y. sometimes you still need them if the seats are designed for them.

other people call a bubble flare a single flare, ie it's not a Y, but a bubble shape.

and a double is when you flare the bubble so you end up with a Y with a double wall thickness.

so depending on who you talk to a single can mean Y or bubble.. there are also lots of other types.. but let's ignore them

btw, also replace the nuts type for type.. ie shoulders without threads are important.

Click to expand...

Nuts that I took off are the same as new ones I have got, thanks for above info

dave21478 said:

#### me, are you still ****ing about with these brakes?

I am all in favour of people learning to work on their cars, but as I said in your other thread, your complete and utter ignorance of the basic mechanical principles of the most important part of your car is....... ah fcuk it.

Carry on.
Good Luck.

Click to expand...

I can only work on car at weekends due to work, also flexi pipe thread was knackered so had to order new one! Hoping to finish it all off the weekend, oh and ps, the weather has not helped!! I also refute your comment about" complete and utter ignorance of the basic mechanical principles" yes I am new to this in some sense, but that's why I have been on here gaining advice before each step, if I had no clue at all I would have got a mechanic friend to help/do the job, once new pipes are on and bled, leak tested etc it's going to garage for MOT, and I will ask them to check for me as well, thanks for your concern and sort of advice

I have today finished the one side, bled the brakes and checked for leaks, and all is good and brakes feel good! Started the other side and has been easier, in that the thread into the flexi pipe is fine on this side, only issue again one of the wheel cylinder bolts will not budge so I am going to chisel off the head as I have new bolts to put in along with new cylinder. Once this is done will again flare the pipe and fit/check for leaks and then bleed all brakes again and barring any issues get booked in for the MOT again, and hopefully get a pass this time!!

If m6 snap them off and replace

when i do new lines, i nip the unions, slack, nip, slack, nip to help reform the soft copper into the correct seat shape. don't nip too hard though or you'll weaken it, just enough to help it form.

it's just what i do anyway

I filled up brake fluid reservoir and basically waited for leaks, then slowly tightened union to stop leak, only slight adjustments needed, once done tested brakes and all is good