Which to sacrifice radiator or intercooler??

So, I have been looking at getting a new Rad and intercooler and was looking at getting them from Allisport.

They do an XL Rad 70mm and a double core intercooler, the only problem is they both wont fit so I can have a normal rad and a double core intercooler or a 70mm rad and a normal intercooler.

Please could you give me your thoughts as to which combination you would have and why? or indeed any other makes you would recommend.

I have no desire to start cutting wings to make it fit, I just want the best combination that will go straight in.

Many thanks
Tom

What engine is it? Larger intercooler will give the most benifit, that is if ykur current rad is still doing its job properly.

Ah yeah that may help, it's a defender 200TDI. I have no rad as yet, a complete rebuild is in order...... the joys lol

Hmmm tough one then! Intercooler is still probs better, that plus a small fuel pump tweak should give more torque/HP. Then fit a new, standard rad.

Standard rads are usually more than up to the job of cooling the engine properly.

A 200 tdi is over cooled as you will find out in the winter. Personally I like to keep my Defender as standard as possible. But if I was going to up grade I think I would up grade the intercooler.

Thanks guys, this is confirming what they told me, but a friend of mine thought it would be better the other way round to preserve the engine.

mikescuba said:

A 200 tdi is over cooled as you will find out in the winter. Personally I like to keep my Defender as standard as possible. But if I was going to up grade I think I would up grade the intercooler.

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Boring

bankz5152 said:

Boring

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Only boring if you is putting holes through something!!

200Tdi will respond well to a larger IC - preferably full width - in front of the rad - info here:-

www.jeremyjfearn.co.uk

I have one of his on a 300Tdi - in the D1 auto in my avatar - very impressed.


There's now enough space for a full width radiator in the space LR used for the rad and IC originally - which I will use when my rad breaks.......

So, sacrifce neither, and fit both

( and yes, this will fit a deafener )

I fitted a wire mesh across the front of mine to protect the rad and Intercooler from stones etc. Great for when crossing the desert or behind the gritters in the winter time.

Buy the std brass/copper radiator and not the alloy/plastic version and it will literally last a lifetime.

Thanks for all the advice guys, I'm now thinking Disco1BFG is on to a winner, all i have to do know is see if it will fit with the XL 70mm Rad and i get everything I want!! win win all the way plus with the fuel pump tweak bankz5152 mentioned how could I go wrong?

Tomass80 said:

Thanks for all the advice guys, I'm now thinking Disco1BFG is on to a winner, all i have to do know is see if it will fit with the XL 70mm Rad and i get everything I want!! win win all the way plus with the fuel pump tweak bankz5152 mentioned how could I go wrong?

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If you're careful you won't !! The 200 will take some extra boost too - lots of info on the Fearn site!

The thing I would add into the mix is an EGT gauge - £30 off the bay, and very much essential IMHO - I have this one:-

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182389709146

Boost gauge is worth having anorl

Please excuse my ignorance, but why is it important to measure the temperature of the exhaust gas?

Well, an aluminium headed engine will only tolerate so much heat before the aluminium looses its heat treatment - and effectively "melts". ( not technically accurate, but close enough for this explanation ).

The head on the 300 Tdi will tolerate anything up to 720 degrees C ( allegedly ) - an internet search might get you the figures for the 200 head, but I limit mine to much less than that - max 600 - a search on here will find you a mass of info

Here;s a good thread to have a read through:-

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/300tdi-exhaust-gas-temperature-fuel-pump-tuning.314167

Thanks for that, you was right it was a very interesting read and gave me something else to thing about to, long way off that stage at the moment though, although I may just buy one now whilst I'm thinking about it.

200 and 300 Tdi left the factory in a low state of tune, and max EGT with factory fueling would be about 500C - which it'll survive quite a lot of

Once you tune them, then the extra fuel will up EGT significantly, and since it is not monitored in any way, then you, the driver have to do it, or face the consequences.....

You can get a 300 to produce about 200HP !!! - but the problem is EGT - the rest of the engine will take it, but the head won't.... for long

As you'd have seen in the other thread, the alternator needs to move at these power outputs too - else you'll probably watch it move itself as a molten mess running away under the car

Yes I did think that and I'm great full I didn't skimp on buying a decent alternator, although it wasn't for that reason to be fair.

I have no intention of ragging it about but it may have to tow a horse or two on very rare occasions, so I was just giving it the best start I could... I also want to go playing in it too, so i don't want it breaking down because I have used cheap parts.

But this is opening my eyes to a lot more things I have to think about, thanks..... I think lol

I spaced the heat shield further back on mine (alt) to allow greater airflow...easy peasy with some studding couplers of the right size... (M5 on mine)