Which spots to fit

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I have a 72 watt 6 inch version.

Its like turning on the sun.

You wont need a good beam because everything will be lit up...... I have to turn mine off a km from the house as once i turn the final corner every house on the road is lit up and curtains start to twitch.
 
I have a 72 watt 6 inch version.

Its like turning on the sun.

You wont need a good beam because everything will be lit up...... I have to turn mine off a km from the house as once i turn the final corner every house on the road is lit up and curtains start to twitch.
Sounds like the 120 watt one should be sufficient then. Think I will go for the cheaper one at £46 as opposed to the £220. That way if it gets knocked off its not some much of a loss.
 
They're ace .. ;) Mine are only small but light the paths up a treat, and turned as I have them, they also light the corners up when Laning at night .. :)
 
Forgot the pics ..

LED Light bars, small ..

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Lights as normal in my back yard ..

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Lights on full beam with the spots on ... ;)

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Bugger. Just bought the 24" 120w. That will do for me :) now to figure out where best to mount it

Would inside the car, pressed bang up to the glass at top of windscreen work? Or will that still give glare?!?
 
I'd guess they'd not work well at all, unless you could mount them and seal them to the windscreen I don't see how they wouldn't just light up the cab! The other issue would be they'd also be pointing up unless you made a sort of angled enclosure to mount them with.
 
I'd guess they'd not work well at all, unless you could mount them and seal them to the windscreen I don't see how they wouldn't just light up the cab! The other issue would be they'd also be pointing up unless you made a sort of angled enclosure to mount them with.

I was thinking angled slightly but with an enclosure/shroud. Similar to some rear brake lights and police cars. It works for them...

It will be easy enough to test when the lights arrive I guess. Other than possible glare, it makes more practical sense (for me) to be inside. Although, heat/air flow from the ballast I've not considered. But that might be nice with winter coming :) Less holes in the roof, more secure, cleaner 'lines'.

It may also be really ****e and I'll end up mounting them externally :)
 
Do they work as a main beam light. That's where mine needs some help. I upgraded my head lamps some three/ four years ago but main beam is still very weak. Especially here in France where these lazy B-----ds don't dip their main beam unless you give them a blast.
 
Do they work as a main beam light. That's where mine needs some help. I upgraded my head lamps some three/ four years ago but main beam is still very weak. Especially here in France where these lazy B-----ds don't dip their main beam unless you give them a blast.
Not unless you wire them up to do that. I don't think it is legal in the uk to have ones on the roof coming on with full beam. No idea what the rules are in france, it shouldn't be hard to do with a relay.

Also I find my main beam pretty good, but have read that the weak part is that all of the current comes through the stalk. If I were you I would try fitting or making one of these

http://www.paddockspares.com/boomslang-performance-headlight-loom.html

I have the 42", 240w version of the light bar, it kicks ass. Couple of complaints tho...the light reflects off the bonnet a lot, plus the relay it came with isn't really man enough for the job and whines and smells warm if it is on for any amount of time. It is on my list of stuff to fix.
 
It is absolutely LEGAL to have spots wired to come on with main beam. In fact I think they shouldn't be used on the road without having main beam on! Off-road it doesn't matter, but bear in mind that Green Lanes are Legally roads ... ;)

I had mine set on a switch as well as main beam, so when I hit main they come on, unless the switch is off. In fact I took the switch out 'cos why wouldn't I, when using high beam, want more light?
 
I was under the impression if you wanted auxiliary lights mounted to come on with your main beam then they had to be in-line with your headlights? If not had to be on a separate switch?
 
I was under the impression if you wanted auxiliary lights mounted to come on with your main beam then they had to be in-line with your headlights? If not had to be on a separate switch?

No, the regs state switched to main beam (must turn off automatically when dipped) and in matched pairs (or central in a the case of a bar) and type approved for road use.


If not type approved they must be independently switchable.....there is no regs on positioning
 
The spots I have just removed are all wired up to come on with the main beam or they can be switched off independently. What my concern is " are the LED's powerful enough to complement main beam or does the LED light fizzle out within a short range" more like a dipped headlight beam.
I don't think there is any problem here in France with the positioning of the lights. Most of the HGV trucks have a bank of them mounted on there roof, its light day light for miles, you can see a glow in the sky as they approach.
 
i use LEDs on my push bike as well - i have a 1200 lumen front light that beam penetrates far but what is common to LEDS is that on dark wet nights the light gets sucked up by the wet road. it just doesnt cast a beam on the road as far in the wet as a good halogen - how ever any objects on said road are still lit up at a significant distance its just the actualroad that wont be bright white......

In the Dry the road will be lit as far as you can see. seriously the first time i drove up the road and turned the corner up to the house my neighbours thought aliens were landing (we live up a track and dont get much traffic)
 
Bit difficult to get good pictures of the LED lights as they are so bright it throws the camera's light metering out. Normal main beam below is in reality more yellow in color.

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The LED's are much much brighter and light up the sides, can't see any need to have angled LED's

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I also fitted an LED as a rear light
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