Which dinitrol

dag019 · Jul 18, 2022

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/burnt-out-rebuild.372892/Having removed my burnt engine (thread link) I am planing on treating the chassis while it is exposed and easy to get to. I have pressure washed it down and it should be bone dry tomorrow with the heat we have currently. I have dinitrol 3125HS cavity wax that I am planning on treating the inside of the chassis with this. What is the best thing for the outside of the chassis? Will this be suitable or Is there a better dinitrol product designed for the outside. Because it is old deposit washing it down it is not degreased well enough to paint so I am looking for a underseal/wax type protection

Brown · Jul 19, 2022

I see on the Dinitrol website they say that 3125HS can be used on open surface areas so maybe that'll be OK for outside the chassis as well. I've got their 4941 on the outside of my chassis, which is a thick black material which seems to work well. I sprayed my chassis with it in 2013 and it's still intact, barring the occasional touch up.

On occasions where there's just a little bit to do and it's not worth getting the compressor out I often use the thin runny Dinitrol as a sort of thinner for the thick sticky varieties, and mix a little up in a container and put it on with a brush. I've also found that the thin runny varieties can act as a good undercoat or primer for a later coat of thick sticky stuff. Unless you dismantle the Land Rover completely, there are always going to be places that you can't get at with the wire brush or get at with the full force of the pressure washer so the runny stuff (I think mine's some sort of an ML variety) can be sprayed on so it soaks through any surface dirt and gets in contact with the underlying metal and then a coat of 4941 will seal the goodness in and stay in place more or less indefinitely.

dag019 · Jul 19, 2022

Brown said:
I see on the Dinitrol website they say that 3125HS can be used on open surface areas so maybe that'll be OK for outside the chassis as well. I've got their 4941 on the outside of my chassis, which is a thick black material which seems to work well. I sprayed my chassis with it in 2013 and it's still intact, barring the occasional touch up.

On occasions where there's just a little bit to do and it's not worth getting the compressor out I often use the thin runny Dinitrol as a sort of thinner for the thick sticky varieties, and mix a little up in a container and put it on with a brush. I've also found that the thin runny varieties can act as a good undercoat or primer for a later coat of thick sticky stuff. Unless you dismantle the Land Rover completely, there are always going to be places that you can't get at with the wire brush or get at with the full force of the pressure washer so the runny stuff (I think mine's some sort of an ML variety) can be sprayed on so it soaks through any surface dirt and gets in contact with the underlying metal and then a coat of 4941 will seal the goodness in and stay in place more or less indefinitely.

Yes I have used the ML but as you say it is quite thin and am after something a little thicker. The 3125hs is still a bit sticky when dry (where it has leaked out of my bulkhead is the perfect example) and I am hoping the 4941 would set hard (ish) so it does not cover anything that touches it in wax when working on the vehicle?
The fact that your 4941 has lasted 9 years is sounds like that might be a winner. I am happy with occasional touchups, but want to take the opportunity with the engine out to get as much covered as possible now.

dag019 · Jul 19, 2022

Double post!

Turboman · Jul 19, 2022

dag019 said:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/burnt-out-rebuild.372892/Having removed my burnt engine (thread link) I am planing on treating the chassis while it is exposed and easy to get to. I have pressure washed it down and it should be bone dry tomorrow with the heat we have currently. I have dinitrol 3125HS cavity wax that I am planning on treating the inside of the chassis with this. What is the best thing for the outside of the chassis? Will this be suitable or Is there a better dinitrol product designed for the outside. Because it is old deposit washing it down it is not degreased well enough to paint so I am looking for a underseal/wax type protection

View attachment 269637 View attachment 269638

You could use the ML cavity wax on the inside, and just paint the outside.
Old galv takes paint pretty easily, unlike new.
On my old Series, I just painted the cappings and windscreen surround with white exterior gloss, no primer or undercoat.
Lasted for 10 years, and maybe more, I sold it after that.

dag019 · Jul 19, 2022

Turboman said:
You could use the ML cavity wax on the inside, and just paint the outside.
Old galv takes paint pretty easily, unlike new.
On my old Series, I just painted the capping and windscreen surround with white exterior gloss, no primer or undercoat.
Lasted for 10 years, and maybe more, I sold it after that.

Even with a pressure wash the front chassis has not come up clean enough to paint and I would rather spend the time rebuilding it than meticulously cleaning the chassis for painting. In hindsight I should have done that when it was new. I have 3125 left from doing the door frames and bulkhead cavities so am using that for the inside because I have it and don't need to spend more money. I am at the annoying stage of the rebuild where all the big parts are purchased but I am still spending a fortune on plumbing and fittings!

Turboman · Jul 19, 2022

dag019 said:
Even with a pressure wash the front chassis has not come up clean enough to paint and I would rather spend the time rebuilding it than meticulously cleaning the chassis for painting. In hindsight I should have done that when it was new. I have 3125 left from doing the door frames and bulkhead cavities so am using that for the inside because I have it and don't need to spend more money. I am at the annoying stage of the rebuild where all the big parts are purchased but I am still spending a fortune on plumbing and fittings!

I didn't clean them meticulously. I think I just gave them a scrub with a scrubbing brush and water first.
I have never had much joy painting galv less than about ten years old, even with the special primers, etc.
It did stick on, but lots got chipped off quite quickly.

Brown · Jul 19, 2022

The advantage of doing it yourself rather than getting one of the well known underbody coating firms to do it is that you can be a little selective. So you can go a bit more lightly on exposed nuts and bolts so that they'll be easy to undo in the future, whereas the insides of box sections and exposed areas of sheet metal can be given a good soaking.

Turboman said:
You could use the ML cavity wax on the inside, and just paint the outside.
Old galv takes paint pretty easily, unlike new.
On my old Series, I just painted the cappings and windscreen surround with white exterior gloss, no primer or undercoat.
Lasted for 10 years, and maybe more, I sold it after that.

Yes, I'm a big supporter of putting gloss paint on stuff. Thousands of uses around the home and smallholding. It's nice and oily and soaks into cracks, crevices and porous materials. It makes a good stain block coat, soaks most satisfyingly into bare wood, especially end grain, and sticks to metal at least as well as specialist primers.

Turboman · Jul 19, 2022

Brown said:
Yes, I'm a big supporter of putting gloss paint on stuff. Thousands of uses around the home and smallholding. It's nice and oily and soaks into cracks, crevices and porous materials. It makes a good stain block coat, soaks most satisfyingly into bare wood, especially end grain, and sticks to metal at least as well as specialist primers.

Being extremely tight fisted, economy is a big attraction as well.
Almost always some left over in the paint store!
If you get really lucky, it might be the really old stuff with lead in it.

dag019 · Jan 19, 2023

I know this thread is a little old now but thought i would give a quick update and ask my next question here rather than start a new thread. I am very happy with the progress made on the outside of chassis and innerwings etc using the 4941

I am not looking to move onto doing the inside of the chassis which I have been putting off as other parts of the rebuild have taken priority. I have ordered a sealey sg18 undercoating gun and plan on doing the same thing @Discodevon mentioned in another thread and extend the lance to be at least a couple of meters to get the full length of the chassis.

Having just done the inner wings pictured above and using nearly 1l of dinitrol to do it, I am worried the couple of liters I have left of 3125HS is not enough. I need to do the front door frames and inner chassis. I am expecting the doors combined to take about a litre so I know I will need to order some more I just want to get enough now and only pay one set of postage. I know the answer I will get is you cannot use too much but how many liters roughly will be required to do the chassis.

Which dinitrol

dag019

Well-Known Member

Brown

Well-Known Member

dag019

Well-Known Member

dag019

Well-Known Member

Turboman

Mab An Gov

dag019

Well-Known Member

Turboman

Mab An Gov

Brown

Well-Known Member

Turboman

Mab An Gov

dag019

Well-Known Member

Similar threads