Which blend motor ?

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Willos

Active Member
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521
Location
Huntingdon Cambs
Over the summer i had hot air in the passenger side plus the service book on the temp display. Going up and down the temp scale for 1/2 hour fixed it and cleared the fault. Now i have the opposite . Cool air in the passenger side and test book on the display.. Drivers side is fine goes up and down as required.
Which motor controls the temp in the passenger side and can it be reached without taking the whole dash off. thanks
 
Only one motor the passenger side and easily accessible...you may have to remove the glove box.
The other two motors are on the drivers side and a right pain, one is the distribution motor for directing the airflow to the footwell, face vents or screen etc., and the other one is for the temperature control to the drivers side (The same function as the single motor on the passenger side).
You either have a dodgy motor on the passenger side or the blend flap is stuck/sticking.
 
Having just done this I recommend you only change one at a time rather than all three. To change the passenger side, remove the glove box and passenger airbag. This gives access to the motor. Best thing to do is unscrew the blend motor and cut the wires. Solder the new blend motor in place. Island 4x4 sell the cheapest ones. It may be that you simply need to remove the motor to free blend flap.
 
dean68uk....Quick Q if I may...

Why would you reccommend chaninging one at a time??

if you are going to bother getting in there, plus their perpensity to fail, would it not be better to change all 3??

Just wondering why only change one at a time??

I ask as mine need doing...cold only on both sides....
 
I did change all three as all mine were defective. But if only the passenger side is duff I would just do that and leave the others as they were still working. I intended to change all three and just plug the new motors in without cutting wires and resoldering. After several attempts to feed the plug and wires through I found it was easier to cut the plug off and thread the wires through one at a time. I used britpart motors and noted the plug that came with them did not fit into the HEVAC. (the plug was too big to fit) so used the old plug with the new motors.
 
Sorry to pester...

How long did it take?
Did you use the much documented 'Short Cuts'?
What probs did you face and how did you over come them?
Ona scale of 1 to 10 (1 being piece of **** - 10 being harder than getting a shag from the Queen) how difficult did you find it?

Sorry to ask, but its getting colder and mine need doing before I freeze to death on the M25 each morning..!!
 
Saint.V8 said:
Sorry to pester...

How long did it take?
Did you use the much documented 'Short Cuts'?
What probs did you face and how did you over come them?
Ona scale of 1 to 10 (1 being piece of **** - 10 being harder than getting a shag from the Queen) how difficult did you find it?

Sorry to ask, but its getting colder and mine need doing before I freeze to death on the M25 each morning..!!
Click to expand...

Started at 10 in the morning and completed it by 5pm. I did not stop all day. having already done the heater O rings I know how to strip the the dash plus the heater duct was already cut for easy removal.
When refitting the motors I glued the fixing screws to my screw driver to be able to hold them while refitting.
I used all the short cuts listed.
Do not try to feed the wires through with the plug attached.
Difficulty well not too bad just time really.
 
Yes I used the original plug. I had intended to take photos but the job was long enough without and I need to get the car working again. The Britpart blend motors seem ok just the plug. Good price too from island 4x4.
 
When I did the passenger side I found
no need to remove airbag just the glove box
wish I'd have thought about glueing the screws on
reckon if I had I would have save an hour.
 
Dunno where the tips are apart from on RR.Net, but there are a couple of tips I hope might help. First off,dont glue the screws onto the driver,use a short length of heatshrink tubing, just enough to cover the end of the screw then shrink it.Works a treat,is instant and if you are careful you can use it several times.
Second is that there is no need at all to cut plugs off etc,if you look in the end of the plug you can just about see the little plastic tang that holds the terminals in place.Lift that up and the terminal will pull out.When you refit the wires to the old plug,(I only replace what doesnt work - the less you take apart the less rattles etc you are likely to get) do it one at a time and you wont mix them up.
I only use genuine motors and only replacing what doesnt work means you can fix up to three cars with one set.There is also no need to cut any ducts or drill holes etc,careful use of a little rachet that holds 1/4" hex bits,(You need two lengths of bit) a decent head torch and mirror is all you need.Checking the distrubution flaps are free is an absolute must if you are working on that side - my self tapping screw fix on RR.Net works well to free them off.
As a guide,the LH one or distribution one takes me less than an hour to do,the RH one is about an hour and a half if the phone doesnt ring too much.All with no cutting / drilling or general bodging.:D
 
I used super glue to hold each screw on the tip of my screwdriver as it sets quick with low strength. I found this to be a quick and easy solution for me. I was unable to access the L/H motor without removing the 4 bolts holding the airbag. On the R/H side I was unable to reach the motors without removing the large vent trunk which sits over the top of them. I cut my wires as I thought this was quick without disturbing the plug. Each to their own but this worked ok for me.
 
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