Wheel wobble - Really bad wheel wobble : (

Hi All,

I changed my wheels and tyres yesterday and noticed an alarming amount of play in the front offside wheel - 12-6 movement...

On inspection it's the top swivel pin. Ive done plenty of reading about shims etc and even found a rebuild thread... (Rebuilding a 110 front hub/ Early Railko type - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum)

I looked at removing some shims but on inspection they have already been removed?! Can I replace the top pin first and see if things are better or just plump for a full rebuild? (do the pins wear or will it be the top bearing?)

Thanks

Chris

chriswood6725 said:

Hi All,

I changed my wheels and tyres yesterday and noticed an alarming amount of play in the front offside wheel - 12-6 movement...

On inspection it's the top swivel pin. Ive done plenty of reading about shims etc and even found a rebuild thread... (Rebuilding a 110 front hub/ Early Railko type - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum)

I looked at removing some shims but on inspection they have already been removed?! Can I replace the top pin first and see if things are better or just plump for a full rebuild? (do the pins wear or will it be the top bearing?)

Thanks

Chris

Click to expand...

I would just do a rebuild, it isn't a massive job. While you are at it I would do the swivel seals and replace both swivel bearings if yours are the newer type.

Think mine is the older type (1986)?

Does that mean the lower bearings are pressed in??

Cheers

chriswood6725 said:

Think mine is the older type (1986)?

Does that mean the lower bearings are pressed in??

Cheers

Click to expand...

I can't remember to be honest, I don't think so. Someone will prob come along and answer that.

I used this video (and part 2). Was very useful, although the guy says hmmoookay a lot!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2id4_VcJ54

you dont need a press to do swivel bearings (1987 model here with railko bush)

but it sure as hell makes it easier :d

it sounds to me like you have lower bearing issues rather than something that can be adjusted out.

you cant just change the pin , the bush is pressed into the swivel ball and to replace it you need to take it to bits anyway.

takes about an hour a side to strip.

and about the same to put back together.

costs 150 quid to do both swivels , both CVs , drive members and wheel bearings.

You might as well replace both bearings while you have it apart. The bottom one should be a tapered roller where the outer race can be tapped out of its seat in the swivel ball with a hammer and drift, and the new one tapped in. Yes, you could use a press I suppose, but it would involve a lot of fiddling about making yourself appropriate mandrels, so just use a hammer!

Thanks for the wise words, where is the best place to buy the full kit from - dont want to end up with an ebay special really..

Thanks again

When I did mine at the end of last year I got most of my bits - bearings, bolts, gaskets etc. - from LR Direct because it offers you different brands for most things so it's possible to avoid Britpart!

Quick update, X2 complete rebuild kits (including new balls) ohh err, have been ordered.

Guessing I also need to locate a box spanner for the bearing nut? Anyone know the right size?

Cheers

chriswood6725 said:

Quick update, X2 complete rebuild kits (including new balls) ohh err, have been ordered.

Guessing I also need to locate a box spanner for the bearing nut? Anyone know the right size?

Cheers

Click to expand...

52mm But get a proper socket.

Pikey said:

52mm But get a proper socket.

Click to expand...

52mm But get a proper long reach socket.

Box spanners always done me fine.

Cheers guys, got plenty of spanners, sockets and a set or torq sockets, do I need anything else special (have ordered the 52mm)

Cheers

Good quality 12 point 9/16 spanner......

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601

The one thing I'd add to that is that you might want to check tracking afterwards as with all those new gaskets and bearings the wheel might be sitting in a different place and some adjustment might be necessary. Mine certainly was. The guide in the link is for the later type with a tapered roller at both ends, so Chris Wood's will be different. It'll all look pretty similar though.

It's possible to get the calliper off without undoing the brake pipes and it can be balanced nicely on the radius arm while you're working on the hub. Or mine did, anyway. No broken pipes, no bleeding.

I ziptied mine to the spring. Thats a disco with twin pipes i think but its a decent enough guide.

Once your in it its obvious where the railko goes. I mean i figured it out

All parts and tools ordered up - hopefully will have it sorted on Wednesday night (at least one side anyway)

Thanks for your help

Chris

i got this one LAND ROVER DEFENDER HUB NUT SPANNER 52mm BOX SPANNER - NEW - 606435 | eBay

One thing as well is I would make sure you use Timken bearings. I had some Bearmach ones that came with a kit and the quality was shockingly bad. Had about the same amount of play as the worn out ones i removed!

I used a Britpart box spanner, £6 workes perfectly used it 4 times now happily

bankz5152 said:

One thing as well is I would make sure you use Timken bearings. I had some Bearmach ones that came with a kit and the quality was shockingly bad. Had about the same amount of play as the worn out ones i removed!

I used a Britpart box spanner, £6 workes perfectly used it 4 times now happily

Click to expand...

can totally reiterate bankz sentiments,lots of cheap bearings about ,only use Timken,i found this out quite quickly into defender ownership