What will happen if i dont fix the following imdeaitely!

Yes my car is costing more and more money! up to almost 2k in six months since i got it!!

the garage convientley forgot to tell me after my last service(1month ago) that the following was wrong:

- front disc and pads excessively worn
- drivers rear flexi drum pipe broken
- front to rear brake pipe corroded(badly)
- rear brakelight fault(intermitent)

all of which i failed MOT on today...............and the list goes on (although it will not fail my MOT)

- Diff seals leaking
- Diff mounting torn and split at front
- 2 prop bearings torn
- Bracket for turbo boost valve broken

In relation to the above how long do i actually have before i grind to a horrid halt........LRD says "you should really have had it done when we first flagged it up?) COCKS! so does that mean now or do the money grabbing Cocks want more money cos its a quiet month for the dealer!!sorry for the "cocks" but i have anger induced tirrets

oops

Well don't take it to a main stealership for starters. get a reputable local garage to do the work. Ask around someone will recommend a good one.

Let people know where you are in your profile and we could help

i stay in glasgow as indicated now hehe

only 2K - lightweight!

It's worth getting an MOT somewhere else, somewhere recommended.

Grease the brake pipes before you go , it makes it look like you've been looking after it. And fix the intermiitent brake light it's probably a loose connector or the switch is loose? Apologies if you don't like getting your hands dirty, still get a second MOT opinion though.

or take it back to the bastids that services it fur an MOT. Then create stink in the office when it fails.

TD4 said:

- front disc and pads excessively worn - Do yerself for £60 it really is very easy job
- drivers rear flexi drum pipe broken - Could tackle yoerself or get an independant to do, Pipes dont break and if its split yer in big **** cos half the brakes shouldnt be working
- front to rear brake pipe corroded(badly), Clean up and grease
- rear brakelight fault(intermitent) Prob loose bulb had it on mine

all of which i failed MOT on today...............and the list goes on (although it will not fail my MOT)

- Diff seals leaking - Clean and monitor I was told if a LR dont leak there somut up with it
- Diff mounting torn and split at front - Replace sharpish or another £2k bill coming
- 2 prop bearings torn see above
- Bracket for turbo boost valve broken Eh ??who went near there last time ?

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See comments

Hmmmm Never tried that.

basic maintenance stuff really,
it appears you motor had been neglected maintenance wise , if you cant do the work yourself your gonna have to payup,

i dont understand why the garage didnt offer to do the work in the first place ? they dont usually miss an oppertunity to extract your dosh ,

porky sis stop whingin td4 . . . .roll yer sleeves up un fix the fecker

Totally agree with Shutty.

Polybushed my vehicle (out of choice) during half term last week. I noticed my rear brake pipes (from rubber pipe to cylinder) were looking tatty. I removed and took to my local car spares.

They made up identical copper piped ones for £4 of copper and 4x35p for the threaded connections.

I got a front brake set for £35 posted from an advertiser in LRO (think it was 4x4mailorder. The discs are excellent and the pads were Mintex and not wazuc!!

Most of your faults are a cheapish repair - prob more expensive to rectify on another make and model!!

Good luck - remember your vehicle wont rust (well not on the wings, doors or bonnet!!

Regards,

Steve

cheers gents......i have the overalls and the haynes manual ready and waiting for me this weekend!

Have fun!

Blippie

TD4 said:

cheers gents......i have the overalls and the haynes manual ready and waiting for me this weekend!

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we'll look forward to a stressed and tear stained plea for urgent help on saturday night then.....

Front to rear brake pipe corroded(badly), Clean up and grease

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I'd give that one a miss, if they're "badly" corroded, or else you might get a nice little surprise pressing the brake pedal only for the line to rupture...seen it happen, it's not fun..

There is a good reason for replacing "badly" corroded lines.. don't ya think ?

Give them a gentle tap with a pinch/screwdriver where corroded, you can tell by the sound if its just surface rust, of if they're U.S.

Methos.

Methos said:

I'd give that one a miss, if they're "badly" corroded, or else you might get a nice little surprise pressing the brake pedal only for the line to rupture...seen it happen, it's not fun..

There is a good reason for replacing "badly" corroded lines.. don't ya think ?

Give them a gentle tap with a pinch/screwdriver where corroded, you can tell by the sound if its just surface rust, of if they're U.S.

Methos.

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Good advice here - Having seen how reasonable copper ones can be made up by local motor factors, you might as well replace and forget about for many years.

Hope the repair work goes well - remember plenty of folk about here if you need any advice.

Regards,

Steve