What size torque wrench do people recommend?

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In approximately 50 years of working on my own cars the only thing I have ever used is a half inch drive torque wrench. Use them on head bolts, manifold bolts and alloy wheels. As mentioned, these are all pretty much the same length. I would recommend getting one that you set which clicks when the setting is reached. You will not be using it often so I don't think best quality is necessary but I wouldn't go with the cheapest one either. Maybe something mid-price.
 
I've got a 1/2" drive 250Ft Lbs Tekton and a used 3/4" drive 560Nm Britool torque wrench that I specifically bought for my Disco 2 hub nuts.
At 104 quid I couldn't pass up the Britool.
 
neilly said:
Look in the manuals Haynes / WSM and see what the quoted torque is for what you are going to do, then buy a torque wrench that has the correct specification.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Which will work most of the time. But if you later on buy a Disco 2 and want to do the hub nuts up?! :oops::oops::oops::oops:
 
I think my own personal one is one of these....

Screenshot_20200512-223112_Chrome.jpg
 
I did mine just by putting a 2ft breaker bar on the nut and jumping my 18st bulk on it a few times ;)

Nice and tight!!! ;)
 
jamesmartin said:
use a long bar ,nuts like that just need to be tight
Click to expand...
Was joking really! After all this is the Defender part of the forum
As you know, For Disco 2 hub nuts, I use a breaker bar, an extension, my own weight and some maths! Even my biggest torque wrench, bought to do old style Mini hub nuts, didn't have enough torque for them!
I do agree about a torque wrench for the smaller torques but then again a torque indicator wrench is probably OK for that. I don't have a small one. But if someone is new to all this they may well shear off the odd bolt or nut if they don't have one until they get used to what they are doing.
I tend to be a bit anal about this when tightening into ally as I have had too many problems in the past with it, even when being super careful. So I am a bit of a goody goody.
But I notice no one has mentioned getting them calibrated or whether the torque wrench setting mentioned is on a dry bolt, an oiled bolt or whatever. again something an amateur like me had to learn.
"So much fun":)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Was joking really! After all this is the Defender part of the forum
As you know, For Disco 2 hub nuts, I use a breaker bar, an extension, my own weight and some maths! Even my biggest torque wrench, bought to do old style Mini hub nuts, didn't have enough torque for them!
I do agree about a torque wrench for the smaller torques but then again a torque indicator wrench is probably OK for that. I don't have a small one. But if someone is new to all this they may well shear off the odd bolt or nut if they don't have one until they get used to what they are doing.
I tend to be a bit anal about this when tightening into ally as I have had too many problems in the past with it, even when being super careful. So I am a bit of a goody goody.
But I notice no one has mentioned getting them calibrated or whether the torque wrench setting mentioned is on a dry bolt, an oiled bolt or whatever. again something an amateur like me had to learn.
"So much fun":)
Click to expand...
or more so if its a fine or coarse thread
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Was joking really! After all this is the Defender part of the forum
As you know, For Disco 2 hub nuts, I use a breaker bar, an extension, my own weight and some maths! Even my biggest torque wrench, bought to do old style Mini hub nuts, didn't have enough torque for them!
I do agree about a torque wrench for the smaller torques but then again a torque indicator wrench is probably OK for that. I don't have a small one. But if someone is new to all this they may well shear off the odd bolt or nut if they don't have one until they get used to what they are doing.
I tend to be a bit anal about this when tightening into ally as I have had too many problems in the past with it, even when being super careful. So I am a bit of a goody goody.
But I notice no one has mentioned getting them calibrated or whether the torque wrench setting mentioned is on a dry bolt, an oiled bolt or whatever. again something an amateur like me had to learn.
"So much fun":)
Click to expand...

I grease or oil any fastener I remove, at work and home, basically if it needs to move or come undone again it gets lubed.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Which will work most of the time. But if you later on buy a Disco 2 and want to do the hub nuts up?! :oops::oops::oops::oops:
Click to expand...
Henry_b said:
I did mine just by putting a 2ft breaker bar on the nut and jumping my 18st bulk on it a few times ;)

Nice and tight!!! ;)
Click to expand...

So you want 490 Nm. on a D2 hub nut. Simples, I am surprised you ask this, but here goes, just for you.

1) Simple, either use the correct torque wrench for 490 Nm. One of the reasons I got one , as I know a few peopel with D2's.
2) Use a long bar and jump on it, ( Personally I think thhis is a crap idea) Having met someone who did this on a 2 mtr bar and weighed approx 100Kg. He kept having bearings fail. Strangely!! They actually followed advice written on here in LZ, that they just needed to be RFT.
3) Find your weight in KG. As an example your 88 KGS.
Torque required = 490 N at 1 meter length.
Newton conversion to KG 490 / 9.81 = 49.94 Kg round it to 50Kg.
So you need to apply torque of 50 KG at 1 meter distance from the ctr line of the axle hub nut.
You have 88 KGs so you can shorten the distance from the ctr line of the hub to approx 570mm.

@HenryB applied approx 670 Nm.

Oh and do not jump or bounce on the bar!!

Cheers
 
neilly said:
So you want 490 Nm. on a D2 hub nut. Simples, I am surprised you ask this, but here goes, just for you.

1) Simple, either use the correct torque wrench for 490 Nm. One of the reasons I got one , as I know a few peopel with D2's.
2) Use a long bar and jump on it, ( Personally I think thhis is a crap idea) Having met someone who did this on a 2 mtr bar and weighed approx 100Kg. He kept having bearings fail. Strangely!! They actually followed advice written on here in LZ, that they just needed to be RFT.
3) Find your weight in KG. As an example your 88 KGS.
Torque required = 490 N at 1 meter length.
Newton conversion to KG 490 / 9.81 = 49.94 Kg round it to 50Kg.
So you need to apply torque of 50 KG at 1 meter distance from the ctr line of the axle hub nut.
You have 88 KGs so you can shorten the distance from the ctr line of the hub to approx 570mm.

@HenryB applied approx 670 Nm.

Oh and do not jump or bounce on the bar!!

Cheers
Click to expand...

Don't know who you are replying to here. Me, Stan, I'm the one with 88kgs and I know how to do the maths, so you can't be talking to me.
I also posted, how to do this on a different thread, a similar formula using lbs /foot as most of us still weigh ourselves in stones and pounds. (can't find the post now it was a week or two ago.)
And, I agree jumping on the end of a breaker bar is not a good idea as you will overtighten it that way.
Formula in ft/lbs as follows:
You want to get to 362 ft/lbs at the nut.
So take your weight in lbs and divide 362 by that.
So if you weigh 11 stone, that is 11 x 14 =154 lbs.
Divide 362 by 154 = 2.35
So you need to stand on your breaker bar plus extension tube if necessary, at 2.35 feet from the centre of the hub. (.35 x 12 = 4.2)
so 2'4.2"
Whichever way you do it, just keep pushing on the breaker bar until gets too hard then position the bar where you can step onto it carefully and do that until the bar stops moving. Then stake the nut.
Either way you'll need to do a tiny bit of maths. depends on your scales I suppose!
Cheers
Stan!
 
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