What have you done to your Freelander today

I didn't glue it.

You can buy an unpainted pattern one for about £30 but I've no idea what the quality is like. Some adds are selling 2nd hand pairs on Ebay for £60. I paid £6 for mine at the local scrappy and painted it with rattle cans I already had. They still seem to be common enough in the scrap yards for now so high prices aren't really justified.

Had a great day out laning today in North Cornwall, but I certainly experienced the main weakness of the FL1. It was not traction, articulation, wading depth, lack of low range or diff locks. The car did everything I asked of it with ease, and seemed to excell on steep rocky and muddy gradients. The real issue was ground clearance. Narrow, deep rutted sections or big steps were the problem and I grounded on several occasions. Never got stuck though. I was once again impressed by the FL1's ability and it was great fun but will defintely be more selective on future trips as at times it was fairly stressfull. Don't want to recklessly endanger my pride and joy.

Think I have diagnosed where (the worst of) the oil is on the L Series.

Its parking space on the drive has 2 big sploges of oil dependent on which way its parked. However, since getting the new motor, the F1 has been pushed over a space into virgin oil leak territory. I moved it up yesterday and this afternoon, the oil leak location is quite obvious...



Its been moved a couple of times, so the 'dots' are probably from the same source. A quick glance and there's a fresh drip waiting to drop from a ridge on the bottom of the sump above these dots, following that up and there's oil around an oil cooler pipe that I recon is running down to that lowest point....



Not a great pic, but I recon those pipes need changing, it is a common fault that they leak on L Series. DMGRS have them, so will probably order a pair from them.

kernowsvenski said:

Had a great day out laning today in North Cornwall, but I certainly experienced the main weakness of the FL1. It was not traction, articulation, wading depth, lack of low range or diff locks. The car did everything I asked of it with ease, and seemed to excell on steep rocky and muddy gradients. The real issue was ground clearance. Narrow, deep rutted sections or big steps were the problem and I grounded on several occasions. Never got stuck though. I was once again impressed by the FL1's ability and it was great fun but will defintely be more selective on future trips as at times it was fairly stressfull. Don't want to recklessly endanger my pride and joy.

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I have the same problem sometimes here in Kent - have to be quite selective on the ‘line’ where ruts are concerned. It’s about the only fault I worry about.

Finally found someone who could clone a key chip. My TD4 Sport came with one key and that always makes me worried! I disabled the missing key slot in the security system in case someone still has it then got a cloned chip and key made.

andyfreelandy said:

Finally found someone who could clone a key chip. My TD4 Sport came with one key and that always makes me worried! I disabled the missing key slot in the security system in case someone still has it then got a cloned chip and key made.

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I'm not a fan of only having one key, but with the other still registered to the vehicle. My FL2 had 4 keys registered in the security module, yet it came with just 2 keys. So I used SDD to remove all keys, then re- registered just the 2 keys I have. Annoyingly yesterday one of the keys decided to stop transmission unless I tapped it on the towbar first. So I've switched over to the other key, and will order a replacement case and battery for the misbehaving one.

A busy day for me today. OWUT carried out revealing a mixed bag of results (see VCU thread). Rear drum brakes stripped down, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled. The nearside rear shoes have not automatically adjusted though so I need to open that one up again. I have also discovered that the front near side caliper is sticking, and there is a hole in my rear subframe

kernowsvenski said:

A busy day for me today. OWUT carried out revealing a mixed bag of results (see VCU thread). Rear drum brakes stripped down, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled. The nearside rear shoes have not automatically adjusted though so I need to open that one up again. I have also discovered that the front near side caliper is sticking, and there is a hole in my rear subframe
View attachment 312930

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That hole in the subframe isn't good. It's only just passed the MOT hasn't it. Was the MOT inspector's light not working. It's lucky for you, because you'll have time to sort it before the next one.

Nodge68 said:

That hole in the subframe isn't good. It's only just passed the MOT hasn't it. Was the MOT inspector light not working.

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That's exactly what I thought! although the hole wasn't that big initially. I was poking around to remove the loose stuff and see exactly what I'm dealing with. Is that a replacement subframe job or could it be welded?

kernowsvenski said:

That's exactly what I thought! although the hole wasn't that big initially. I was poking around to remove the loose stuff and see exactly what I'm dealing with. Is that a replacement subframe job or could it be welded?

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I could weld it, but technically a subframe shouldn't be welded other than the assembly welds. Also if it's that thin in one location, it's likely to be thin in other locations too.
If it were mine, I'd replace the subframe, if it's available at a reasonable price.

I've just been sorting the rear axle on my daughter's Aygo, after the MOT tester failed it for absolutely no reason I can see. I'm hoping he passes it next time.

Nodge68 said:

I could weld it, but technically a subframe shouldn't be welded other than the assembly welds. Also if it's that thin in one location, it's likely to be thin in other locations too.
If it were mine, I'd replace the subframe, if it's available at a reasonable price.

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I've had a cursory look around and they're £600+ new, or £100/£150 for a second hand one that looks like it's been stored in the sea. As you say, I have a bit of time to deal with it but, it does need sorting!

Nodge68 said:

I've just been sorting the rear axle on my daughter's Aygo, after the MOT tester failed it for absolutely no reason I can see. I'm hoping he passes it next time.

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Well you know where to bring it next time, although I'm slightly concerned about what they might miss now.

kernowsvenski said:

I've had a cursory look around and they're £600+ new, or £100/£150 for a secnond hand one that looks like it's been stored in the sea. As you say, I have a bit of time to deal with it but, it does need sorting!


Well you know where to bring it next time, although I'm slightly concerned about what they might miss now.

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Wow, that's more than the much larger FL2 subframe. Unfortunately needs must.
I'm hoping mine is ok, it didn't look to bad when I checked it in the autumn. I am planning on replacing it it some point, as I know they do rust.

My daughter just wants an MOT so she can get more practice.

kernowsvenski said:

I've had a cursory look around and they're £600+ new, or £100/£150 for a secnond hand one that looks like it's been stored in the sea. As you say, I have a bit of time to deal with it but, it does need sorting!


Well you know where to bring it next time, although I'm slightly concerned about what they might miss now.

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Ouch! That's a lot of cash.

These people have 1 for about £150. They have had good recommendations on here in the past. They say "Although there is some surface rust, this subframe is solid.".


You could give it a good clean up and rust proof it before installing. Might be a better option than getting yours welded up, which at £600 for a new one would be an attractive option.

If you get yours welded up, presumably it would need to be done off the car and maybe left with a workshop. So restoring one, that hopefully is solid, could be done while your car is still on the road and would mean its a quicker swap and less time with the car off the road.

Nodge68 said:

Wow, that's more than the much larger FL2 subframe. Unfortunately needs must.
I'm hoping mine is ok, it didn't look to bad when I checked it in the autumn. I am planning on replacing it it some point, as I know they do rust.

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I guess I have some decisions to make, but I'm very invested in this car, and I know the rest of it is good (apart from the VCU and brakes at the moment) so I will no doubt go for a replacement. It'll be a good time to do the fuel tank cradle too. Might tap you up for help with the propshaft if you're game in the coming weeks?

GrumpyGel said:

Ouch! That's a lot of cash.

These people have 1 for about £150. They have had good recommendations on here in the past. They say "Although there is some surface rust, this subframe is solid.".

Freelander 1 Rear Subframe Diff Housing KHB000080 Land Rover 2001 to 2

2001 - 2006 Land Rover Freelander 1 Rear Subframe / Diff Housing Part Number: KHB000080 Please Note: Although there is some surface rust, this subframe is solid. Ref: H15024

www.gentlemenofsalvage.co.uk

You could give it a good clean up and rust proof it before installing. Might be a better option than getting yours welded up, which at £600 for a new one would be an attractive option.

If you get yours welded up, presumably it would need to be done off the car and maybe left with a workshop. So restoring one, that hopefully is solid, could be done while your car is still on the road and would mean its a quicker swap and less time with the car off the road.

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I'm definitely leaning towards finding a reasonable 2nd hand one and doing some work on it as you suggest Gerald. I could get it all cleaned and prepped whilst still using the vehicle.

As I think about it more I'm certainly not leaning towards welding at the moment. Too much of a temporary fix, and not that cost effective when as you say, it would need to come off anyway

kernowsvenski said:

I guess I have some decisions to make, but I'm very invested in this car, and I know the rest of it is good (apart from the VCU and brakes at the moment) so I will no doubt go for a replacement. It'll be a good time to do the fuel tank cradle too. Might tap you up for help with the propshaft if you're game in the coming weeks?

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Getting a good second hand one and making it less second hand is the best price option. Once you have a good one to install, it can be swapped over when weather and time allows.
Yes the time to do the tank cradle is when the subframe is being changed.

No problem on the propshaft, once I've got the Aygo on the road again.

Nodge68 said:

Getting a good second hand one and making it less second hand is the best price option. Once you have a good one to install, it can be swapped over when weather and time allows.
Yes the time to do the tank cradle is when the subframe is being changed.

No problem on the propshaft, once I've got the Aygo on the road again.

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I have a spare tank cradle in good condition, only slight surface rust so just needs a lick of paint. I think it had been replaced a year or two before I bought the car that is now my EV.
Twenty quid plus postage and it's yours.

Alibro said:

I have a spare tank cradle in good condition, only slight surface rust so just needs a lick of paint. I think it had been replaced a year or two before I bought the car that is now my EV.
Twenty quid plus postage and it's yours.

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Thanks Ali. I'll check out postage costs first. Any idea of the approx weight at all?

I've had a thorough inspection of the rear subframe this evening. The rest of it is rock sold, with only minor surface corrosion in other areas. This may change my approach.

Swore at it. (see thread about rear seatbelt)