What have you done to your Freelander today

htr said:

'Ipack temp' sensor, is that the actual temp sensor on the coolant elbow exiting the forward side of the head? Just cut that wire and have the coolant tank in series with it?

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Don't think we have a high temp LED on our early cars.

Didn't you add an LED setup on your original tank?

htr said:

'Ipack temp' sensor, is that the actual temp sensor on the coolant elbow exiting the forward side of the head? Just cut that wire and have the coolant tank in series with it?

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The early K series has 2 coolant sensors, one for the engine ECU, and another for the Ipack gauge.
Depending on how the Ipack is reading the temperature, and how the coolant reservoir switch works, will dictate how its wired.

First off test what effect disconnecting and linking the gauge sensor does.
If it puts the light on in either case, then proceed to test the coolant reservoir switch.

With a multi-meter, measure what the reservoir switch is doing when it's empty.

Post the results of both tests here.

Nodge68 said:

The early K series has 2 coolant sensors, one for the engine ECU, and another for the Ipack gauge.
Depending on how the Ipack is reading the temperature, and how the coolant reservoir switch works, will dictate how its wired.

First off test what effect disconnecting and linking the gauge sensor does.
If it puts the light on in either case, then proceed to test the coolant reservoir switch.

With a multi-meter, measure what the reservoir switch is doing when it's empty.

Post the results of both tests here.

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Hello Grumpy, yes to that LED. I'm wanting to make that work. I fitted a float switch and that arrangement worked well in the LR tank.

I think that the VW tank has 2 wire-like 'prongs' which poke down towards the bottom. You can see these through the open top in older tanks. The coolant makes the circuit and the warning lamp is off. When the coolant drops and the 'prongs' are exposed, and 'dry' so to speak, the the lamp lights.

The early K series has a blue and a brown temp sensor. The blue one feeds the eco, when disconnected the fans come of full blast. So I guess that the brown one operates the temp gauge?

I put my multimeter across the VW tanks terminals before filling it was open circuit with infinite resistance. It was the same when I filled it.

I found this on YouTube Save our Engine...

Swapped the drivetrain on my nfl freelander td4 from automatic to manual after the jatco gearbox failed. Not done yet, I still have a few odds and ends to tidy up, mostly wiring and electrical stuff, but it's coming along. At this point I have the new drivetrain in the car (engine plus gearbox and tranfer case with the dde, ews and key chip from the donor car), but hoping to be done with it tomorrow.

kanecvr said:

have the new drivetrain in the car (engine plus gearbox and tranfer case with the dde, ews and key chip from the donor car), but hoping to be done with it tomorrow.

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What was wrong with the engine and ECM, which meant you needed to mess with the electronics?

Nodge68 said:

What was wrong with the engine and ECM?

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Nothing wrong with the old engine, but it had a lot of km on it - 350k km to be exact - and was leaking from everyware, while the engine from the donor car only has 160k km and is in excelent condition. But that's not why I swapped it - I swapped the whole drivetrain because it was a lot less work the removing the transmission assembly off two engines and swapping them around. To pull the gearbox you have to lower the engine anyway, so might as way pull it out and replace it with a unit that's in better condition. The ECM was swapped to avoid getting any errors relating to a no longer existing automatic transmission, because if it's anything like on a bmw, the ECM (dde) on my car expects to find the automatic transmission computer and could possibly throw errors when it can't find one

kanecvr said:

To pull the gearbox you have to lower the engine anyway, so might as way pull it out and replace it with a unit that's in better condition

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Ok, that makes sense.

kanecvr said:

The ECM was swapped to avoid getting any errors relating to a no longer existing automatic transmission.

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You need not have done that.
The engine ECM is the same, auto or manual.
The engine ECM communicates with the gearbox ECU (TCM), but if you simply unplugged the TCM, the engine ECM would simply assume it's not fitted.

Nodge68 said:

Ok, that makes sense.

You need not have done that.
The engine ECM is the same, auto or manual.
The engine ECM communicates with the gearbox ECU (TCM), but if you simply unplugged the TCM, the engine ECM would simply assume it's not fitted.

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Oh cool. You learn something new every day. I guess I'll fit my old ECM and EWS back in then. Thanks!

kanecvr said:

Oh cool. You learn something new every day. I guess I'll fit my old ECM and EWS back in then. Thanks!

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I discovered the gearbox TCM thing by mistake one day. I was swapping TCM units on my 2005 SE, when I forgot to plug it in, and started the car. I thought it odd that there wasn't a P in the dash, and no gear selector lights were on by the gear lever. However the engine ran just fine, there was no MIL on, and a diagnostic read simply showed no communication with the TCM.
This lead me to believe the engine ECM will work with or without the TCM being fitted, at least on a 2005 model.

Give it a go, I expect a 2001 model is much the same.

Today we took him on his first long drive, of 265 miles from Cornwall to Brighton in Sussex.
There's still an occasional misfire under full power below 2500 RPM, and between 1900 and 2300 RPM there's what I can only describe as an instability in the running, but apparently some FL2s suffer this issue. For the misfire, I'm definitely going to start replacing the injectors, one by one, as I believe it's an injector issue.

It seems more lively after it's run though, which is nice.

It was pretty economical too recording a final figure of 37.2 MPG, which I'm happy with, considering our 7 hour journey was tortuous, with many diversions and heavy traffic.

Nodge68 said:

There's still an occasional misfire under full power below 2500 RPM,

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That'll be the SE sending vibes again, reminding you of FL1 TD4 ownership

Managed to damage the paint on the front bumper, by nudging into a pillar in a tiny underground carpark of the Holiday Inn in Brighton, at 1:00 this morning.

Nodge68 said:

Managed to damage the paint on the front bumper, by nudging into a pillar in a tiny underground carpark of the Holiday Inn in Brighton, at 1:00 this morning. View attachment 263154

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Bummer!

Alibro said:

Bummer!

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Yes, indeed. I'm normally so careful, but completely misjudged the space I had, and unfortunately the building support column won.

Made the top of the rear mud flaps fit better using some clips which happen to be a genuine Ford part found on the bay of e.
Been trying to find something suitable, like the clip that comes with the kit and without resorting to drilling the bumper to use a self tapping screw/spire nut combo...

Nodge68 said:

Yes, indeed. I'm normally so careful, but completely misjudged the space I had, and unfortunately the building support column won.

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Fair play to you for owning up to it. I'd have blamed a dodgy local.

Took engine cover off to check auto fluid level on the 30k miler.
Got an eye full of diesel!!

Last thing done to the vehicle before I bought it was a LR dealer fitted a new fuel pump. So I looked there!!
Fuel filter loose, jubilee clip loose and screw missing from the under bonnet fuel pump and filter assembly. Fuel was spraying out from fuel filter top seal.

Removed, cleaned, tightened and cleaned up the mess and replaced the lost screw.

Auto gearbox level topped up by about 0.75L. Was snatching and indecisive in 4th to 5th.
Appears OK now.
Wonder if low fuel pressure may also have contributed to the dms calculations??

Alibro said:

Fair play to you for owning up to it. I'd have blamed a dodgy local.

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I couldn't get away with it, as the wife was sat in the car next to me.

andyfreelandy said:

Took engine cover off to check auto fluid level on the 30k miler.
Got an eye full of diesel!!

Last thing done to the vehicle before I bought it was a LR dealer fitted a new fuel pump. So I looked there!!
Fuel filter loose, jubilee clip loose and screw missing from the under bonnet fuel pump and filter assembly. Fuel was spraying out from fuel filter top seal.

Removed, cleaned, tightened and cleaned up the mess and replaced the lost screw.

Auto gearbox level topped up by about 0.75L. Was snatching and indecisive in 4th to 5th.
Appears OK now.
Wonder if low fuel pressure may also have contributed to the dms calculations??

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Why do garages do such crap work. When everyone goes electric, most will go out of business, and rightly so.

I don't think it will alter the fuel calculations though.

Sorry to hear about the bump.
These things happen, especially when tired etc.

I suppose I was wondering whether an incorrect fuel pressure would affect the auto shifting??

andyfreelandy said:

Sorry to hear about the bump.
These things happen, especially when tired etc.

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Indeed, and I was pretty tired to be honest.

andyfreelandy said:

I suppose I was wondering whether an incorrect fuel pressure would affect the auto shifting??

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I don't think so, but anything is possible.
I seriously doubt adding less than a litre of trans fluid will have cured a shift anomaly either, so maybe it was the fuel leak?