What have you done to your Freelander today

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Today I sound proofed my rear door and lubricated the window cables at the same time. Hopefully the annoying rear door rattles will now stop.
 
Yesterday I removed the side steps from my FL1 same as these (these arent mine) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-S...303460?hash=item283a26a6e4:g:kxgAAOSwg0pZY5M3 . They are in used condition and the brackets will need to be fabricated to refit as they were fairly rusted. The boards themselves are fine with some tar marks on them. Before I throw them away they might do someone on here a turn. Free to pickup only as I cant be bothered trying to package them up. I cant post in the for sale section and dont want any money for them. Might help someone out up her , I am based in Cumbernauld. :)
 
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So yesterday I went out to give it a quick wash, ended up washing it, clay bar all the paint work, polish applied and treating the plastics. Windows are still mucky though:)


Mike

The picture shows on preview/edit, but not in the thread? Eh
IMG_20170716_165623.jpg
 
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Nodge68 said:
Today I sound proofed my rear door and lubricated the window cables at the same time. Hopefully the annoying rear door rattles will now stop.
Click to expand...

Well I can confirm that the drive to work was completely free of door rattles and buzzing noises. It's amazing just how much noise one panel can make. Well worth the effort and cost of the materials used.
 
Nodge68 said:
That's what I used. Although it's actually dark grey, rather than black.

Before. (Driver's side)
View attachment 127530
After (passenger side)
View attachment 127531

It's a huge improvement on how it looked. I can't wait to get the other mirror, scuttle panel and spare wheel carrier done.
I'm also interested to see how long the stone chip finish lasts.
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The label claims it's black but you're right, it's more like dark grey but for the mirrors and spare wheel holder that's fine.

4Bee4Bee said:
The painted door mirrors look great. And so do the others I've seen using stonechip for the wheel carrier etc. Seeing the oily marks from splatted flies on my grey faded mirrors look terrible now too. So with the decent weather, I'm going to take the plunge too, and use some stonechip. Did you use any primer, of go straight on with the stonechip?

Another summer job I have got myself is retro-fitting a FBH. I managed to get the scrappy to take off the associated pipes intact, so I can upgrade mine, as there appears to be an extra valve thing in the middle of them, and of course the additional hose to the front wing. I'll have to be a bit creative though, as like Winu, I have the bumper mounted fogs that seem to eat into the space the heater usually occupies. I will post pictures of progress on this!
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I've done it both ways but didn't have the cars long enough to know how long it lasted. Just make sure you scrub it well to remove any polish or grease before starting.
 
Alibro said:
The label claims it's black but you're right, it's more like dark grey but for the mirrors and spare wheel holder that's fine.



I've done it both ways but didn't have the cars long enough to know how long it lasted. Just make sure you scrub it well to remove any polish or grease before starting.
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It is definitely dark grey, but it's fine for the mirrors, as you said.

I just gave the mirror a quick wipe over and removed the squashed insects.
I then sprayed it on and hoped for the best. I obviously missed a fly, as there's a spot in the middle that's not textured like the rest of the painted area. It looks miles better than it did though, and the stone chip has a plastic quality, much like the original finish.
20170715_150503.jpg
 
Alibro said:
The label claims it's black but you're right, it's more like dark grey but for the mirrors and spare wheel holder that's fine.
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I've always wondered why it is on some Freelanders the plastics go grey in the blink of an eye and others stay black.
Mines 15 years old, has lived outside all its life in the blazing sun of Rotherham and the plastics are quite black, even when not treated.
There are a couple of Freelanders where I work that are unloved, un-maintained and never see a wash bucket and their plastics are black. Yet one further up the estate is a facelift that is lovingly looked after and his plastic go grey within a few days after washing. Very odd.
These things keep me awake at night:oops:
Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
I've always wondered why it is on some Freelanders the plastics go grey in the blink of an eye and others stay black.
Mines 15 years old, has lived outside all its life in the blazing sun of Rotherham and the plastics are quite black, even when not treated.
There are a couple of Freelanders where I work that are unloved, un-maintained and never see a wash bucket and their plastics are black. Yet one further up the estate is a facelift that is lovingly looked after and his plastic go grey within a few days after washing. Very odd.
These things keep me awake at night:oops:
Mike
Click to expand...

Some silicone based plastic treatments can actually fade to grey (not heard that song for years), after they get wet.
 
Fitted new coolant pump, cleaned exhaust manifold plate and down pipe plate ready for reassembly. Having the head looked at tomorrow to verify if those indentations need to be 'fixed'.
 
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Alex Blyth said:
So I have to say how pleased I am with the resulting visit to Gemm 4x4 this morning. They fitted me in at short notice and were true to their word. £20 to remove the propshaft and more importantly some valuable info on what I need to do underneath the car.
It turns out the IRD could be the issue rather than the VCU. However removing the propshaft has stopped the creaking and grinding noises from the vehicle as there is no longer stress on the rear end. I have a leak from somewhere around the gearbox area so they have suggested we remove the undertray clean the whole area and run it to find the problem as there is a fair bit of residue on the undertray and surrounding area. I need a new fuel tank support but the propshaft bearing and rear diff (iirc) bearings have been replaced and are in good condition. So I now have a direction to go with my repairs. This morning was very informative and their mechanic couldnt have been more helpful. On the way home put half a tank of Shell diesel in with a bottle of Comma Diesel treatment which was only £4.87 from Halfords courtesy of the trade card (really worthwhile getting one of those).
They are even storing my propshaft all labelled up with my name for when I get another IRD. No rush as the car is driving great with the shaft removed.
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Did they say why the IRD could be the issue? It sounds strange to me. The IRD plays no part in the back axle other than providing a PTO power source that is constant - the only thing that can go wrong is that it doesn't put any power down the prop. Its only what is done with that torque that could create problems at the back. So that it primarily the VCU, diff mounts, rear CVs or suspension bushes etc.

The IRD can go wrong - eg a bad front CV can take out the support bearing in the IRD and cause further grief inside the unit - but in this type of instance the problems are "up front" not with the back axle.
 
Replaced 3 brake pipes, 1 flexi and coolant bottle.
Then new MOT!
Had to use a Vauxhall hose as I couldn't get a Freelander one.
Wasn't exactly the same and the caliper needed a wee bit fettling to allow the connection to sit in square. But it's the same length and did the job.
Also £10 quid cheaper.
 
Is 240 grit too harsh, will you need to do it again with 400 or 600? I used a nylon scrubber to clean mine up and was worried I could leave scratches so 240 grit?????.
I don't know the answer so hopefully someone else will chip in.
 
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