What have you done to your Freelander today

Nodge68 said:

I trailered another 1000Kgs of concrete making materials with the FL1 this morning. I found using Command Shift is softer on the TC clutch. I was able to hold a lower gear while climbing up to my elevated house and ease off the throttle as the TC locked. It will shudder readily in auto mode however. Investigation will start, when I've finished mixing concrete!

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My guess is the fluid will be shot when it comes out.
The shudder is concerning though. But if the gears aren't slipping constantly it should only be the fluid.
Mike

Skinny Mike said:

My guess is the fluid will be shot when it comes out.
The shudder is concerning though. But if the gears aren't slipping constantly it should only be the fluid.
Mike

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I had a similar problem with the box in my D3. I ended up putting shudder fix in, which solved the issue. It was fine for the next year until I sold it.

I'm going to change the fluid next weekend, if I get a chance.

Just done the weekly checks and my expansion tanks cracked
But it has lasted 15 years, so I can't really moan.
And I had some water in the boot, but after last week's weather I'm not surprised.
Ah well, could have been alot worse
Mike

stripped the two front door cards off and add some self adhesive 3mm sound absorbing material
over the top of original stuff and covered the back of the door cards as well as others have done
and I can confirm it does make a noticeable difference
closing the door has a quality sound to it not tinny anymore little less road noise too
will be do rear doors next soon as can get hold of two new door checks

freelandy2004 said:

stripped the two front door cards off and add some self adhesive 3mm sound absorbing material
over the top of original stuff and covered the back of the door cards as well as others have done
and I can confirm it does make a noticeable difference
closing the door has a quality sound to it not tinny anymore little less road noise too
will be do rear doors next soon as can get hold of two new door checks

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I did my front doors a couple of weeks back. It does make quite a big difference. I'm looking forward to finding the time to do the rest of the doors and rear panels.

Today I have mostly been...
Fitting reverse sensors
Sealing leaky exhaust joint
Replacing propshaft bearing.
That was a challenge because someone has had it off before and had cracked a yoke. This gave some play because a cup was able to "float ".
But was able to weld it shut.
So she is still 4wd!

Nodge68 said:

I did my front doors a couple of weeks back. It does make quite a big difference. I'm looking forward to finding the time to do the rest of the doors and rear panels. View attachment 126691 View attachment 126692

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yes it was after reading your post I thought id give it a go I covered the door as you did but may have gone ott on the door card totally covered mine

MOT today.....passed with flying colours!!

Today I replaced a knocking drop link and replaced a cheap, creaking rubber ARB bush, with a factory glass fibre lined bush. So no more creaking and no more knocking, for the moment.
I also did a gearbox fluid change. The fluid that came out was black and smelled burned. Not a good way to run a box really. It's one of those jobs, I never got round to doing. I refilled it with about 4 Ltrs of my preferred Carlube ATF-U fluid.
On the test drive, it definitely changed smoother and I didn't feel any TC shudder, which is what I was hoping for.
I'll run it for a month, before doing another change.

A reasonably uneventful morning, except for one of the front sump guard bolts shearing off. I'll leave the guard off for a bit.
I also spotted some heavy rusting on the LH chassis rail, near where the AC evaporator drain pipe is. So that's another job to do. There's anothe patch on the front cross beam, under the rad, otherwise there's not much other rust to treat, so I'm not that bothered about the general condition of the body.

Nodge68 said:

I also did a gearbox fluid change. The fluid that came out was black and smelled burned. Not a good way to run a box really. It's one of those jobs, I never got round to doing. I refilled it with about 4 Ltrs of my preferred Carlube ATF-U fluid.
On the test drive, it definitely changed smoother and I didn't feel any TC shudder, which is what I was hoping for.
I'll run it for a month, before doing another change.

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If it's black and smells burnt, it's had it. Never fails to amaze me what a bit of new ATF fluid will cure. I'd still do another change and probably put the anti shudder stuff in. I used Lucas oils stop slip on my final change of 3 last year, and that seems to have helped.
Anyway, fingers crossed.
Mike

Skinny Mike said:

Never fails to amaze me what a bit of new ATF fluid will cure.

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Do you recon I could fix my starter motor by filling it with ATF?

GrumpyGel said:

Do you recon I could fix my starter motor by filling it with ATF?

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Definitely, also a liberal coating of underseal on the contacts helps immensely
Mike

landrover scene. Can anyone help. I was driving yesterday and turned a corner heard a bang and niw when i turn a corner i hear a bang also on bumps and when i reverse i hear a grinding noise. Any advice please

Rusty1980 said:

landrover scene. Can anyone help. I was driving yesterday and turned a corner heard a bang and niw when i turn a corner i hear a bang also on bumps and when i reverse i hear a grinding noise. Any advice please

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That could be numerous things.
Shock absorber dead
Top mount dead
Drive shaft gone
Track rod end gone
Drop links/ anti roll bar
Vcu/ rear diff bearings

Unless you get under it and have a good look and pull on stuff, it's hard to say. If your not up to this, drop it into a garage and get them to check before you damage something or yourself.
Mike

Rusty1980 said:

landrover scene. Can anyone help. I was driving yesterday and turned a corner heard a bang and niw when i turn a corner i hear a bang also on bumps and when i reverse i hear a grinding noise. Any advice please

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Please start a thread on it - this thread's not for ongoing discussion of problems.

Skinny Mike said:

That could be numerous things.
Shock absorber dead
Top mount dead
Drive shaft gone
Track rod end gone
Drop links/ anti roll bar
Vcu/ rear diff bearings

Unless you get under it and have a good look and pull on stuff, it's had to say. If your not up to this, drop it into a garage and get them to ch co before you damage something or yourself.
Mike

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Thanks

Skinny Mike said:

If it's black and smells burnt, it's had it. Never fails to amaze me what a bit of new ATF fluid will cure. I'd still do another change and probably put the anti shudder stuff in. I used Lucas oils stop slip on my final change of 3 last year, and that seems to have helped.
Anyway, fingers crossed.
Mike

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The ATF was dead as a dead thing. I'm going to change it again next month.

The whine it was making has stopped to. I really should have changed it before now. I do know better than that. I assumed it was done at 70K. However looking at the condition of what came out, I suspect it's never been changed.
Hopefully there's no permanent damage and I'll get another 80K miles out of the car.

Sealed leaking exhaust.

For the third bloody time....!

Head gasket failure

That's a right 2 and 8 !