What have you done on your 90/110/130 today?

Well, it's been a full on day today, starting at 9 a.m...1. fitted two new 5ft LED light strips to the tent, wired with yellow arctic cable, 2. my good buddy and erstwhile welder finished of the drivers side bulkhead/footwell...we took a good hard look at the passenger side and decided to buy a complete/full footwell and some other metal goodies from YRM: they do have an excellent product range...these will arrive during the week for cut out and install next Saturday, 3. buzzed back the front axle and diff casing, degreased, hot gun dried and painted a healthy coating of Aquasteel: this will need a good 24hrs to dry before finishing with two coeats of extreme chassis black.

In other news, the turbo and exhaust manifold are back from Tom and Ollie at Turbo Dynamics. They've done a first rate rebuild including new actuator valve. I'm really pleased with these guys and their service, excellent communication, rebuilt within said time frame and returned in carefully package box. What do you think...





Finished at 18.30, now quenching thirst with the first bottle of Greene King IPA whilst chicken and veggies are roasting in oven

Al2O3 said:

Looks like a non resettable circuit breaker/fuse. Presumably 160amps

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OK thanks for that, so what are the benefits of having it ? and should I connect it into the battery feed to the winch when I fit it ?
Another question for you, should I also have an isolater switch in the feed ?

I would fit a stop button((which uses a solenoid) to break any power near the front by the winch.
But can fit the isolator inside as a back up

frog hopper said:

OK thanks for that, so what are the benefits of having it ? and should I connect it into the battery feed to the winch when I fit it ?
Another question for you, should I also have an isolater switch in the feed ?

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Like any fuse, it'll stop you melting or setting fire to your Landy, if things go wrong in the winch.

Got the wheels sorted out from their rusty ways:

Helped out a fellow Landy

Took off ramps after steering overhaul and then back on ramps to redo the drop arm. Been off the road for about 3 months doing welding etc so a few extra days wont matter.

Al2O3 said:

Like any fuse, it'll stop you melting or setting fire to your Landy, if things go wrong in the winch.

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Thank you Sir, so as I have it, it makes sense to fit it then. Think its' still worth having an isolator switch as well near the battery.

frog hopper said:

Thank you Sir, so as I have it, it makes sense to fit it then. Think its' still worth having an isolator switch as well near the battery.

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If @Hicap phill thinks it is, then yes. I don't have a winch on my Landy and so have not had to look in to this in any depth. I just thought your picture looked like fuses and a winch is going to need serious protecting, given the amount of current it's going to draw, so I'd expect big fuse protection. Phil will be able to advise better. HTH

I would always have some form of isolation near the front of the winch. You never know when a glove could get caught & put you in danger.
Can always put a second Isolators in the inside.

@neilly
You have a winch fitted.
Any recommendations for cable size etc?
Thanks all

Winch cable size is iirc about 50mm2, plenty of the winch places are contactable and very happy to provide information / help. Plus they normally sell the kits that fit perfectly. Ref the fuse, not sure what size they shoudl be for a winch, I do not have one fitted, but I have seen them supplied with brand new winches.

A battery Isolator iirc is a required fitment, one of the winch sellers even states it is a legal requirement. And it makes sense to fit one , on a Fender in the passenger footwell bulkhead is the normal place.

I di not have an isolator fitted, Not a bad idea .

Cheers

Well, after my recent post saying I couldn't find anything to fix, it looks like I did jinx myself. Jumped in on Sunday morning - alternator light stayed on, revs made no difference. I was on my way to something, so swapped to the car. That afternoon I tested and all was well - battery at 12.5 volts with the engine off, charging light went out instantly and the charging voltage was 14.4. A new brush and diode pack was £50 something delivered, £83 for a replacement alternator from John Richards. How do the bloody things know you are talking about them?

Hicap phill said:

I would always have some form of isolation near the front of the winch. You never know when a glove could get caught & put you in danger.
Can always put a second Isolators in the inside.

@neilly
You have a winch fitted.
Any recommendations for cable size etc?
Thanks all

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That sounds like a good idea, one of those switches with a removable key would be a good shout I think.

neilly said:

Winch cable size is iirc about 50mm2, plenty of the winch places are contactable and very happy to provide information / help. Plus they normally sell the kits that fit perfectly. Ref the fuse, not sure what size they shoudl be for a winch, I do not have one fitted, but I have seen them supplied with brand new winches.

A battery Isolator iirc is a required fitment, one of the winch sellers even states it is a legal requirement. And it makes sense to fit one , on a Fender in the passenger footwell bulkhead is the normal place.

I di not have an isolator fitted, Not a bad idea .

Cheers

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I don't have a scooby what 50mm2 cable is like size wise, I do have a long length of multi core (?) welding cable which is about 12 - 14 mm diameter. Any good?

frog hopper said:

That sounds like a good idea, one of those switches with a removable key would be a good shout I think.

I don't have a scooby what 50mm2 cable is like size wise, I do have a long length of multi core (?) welding cable which is about 12 - 14 mm diameter. Any good?

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The area of a circle = π x radius(squared)
So, for 12mm diameter cable, the area of that cable would be = 3.142 x 6mm(squared)
= 3.142 x 36
= 113 square mm
Over twice the area you need

Al2O3 said:

The area of a circle = π x radius(squared)
So, for 12mm diameter cable, the area of that cable would be = 3.142 x 6mm(squared)
= 3.142 x 36
= 113 square mm
Over twice the area you need

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Feck,!! I knew that all along, must be having an extended senior moment.
Thanks for that.

frog hopper said:

Feck,!! I knew that all along, must be having an extended senior moment.
Thanks for that.

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Pleased you're joining the club. I have loads of those!

frog hopper said:

welding cable which is about 12 - 14 mm diameter. Any good?

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Is that the actual core size? seems very thick what amperage was the welder?

Cheers

neilly said:

Is that the actual core size? seems very thick what amperage was the welder?

Cheers

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Buggered if I know, bought it at Newbury Sortout about 15 years ago, you know the crack - Oh that's going to be useful one day, at that price I'll have it.

Ordered 2 new doors, plus all the gubbins to fit them, except winder mech and glass. 2 sills. Windscreen and seal. 6 litres of olive drab green paint and a new rear step.

Gonna be looking for a trailer soon.

Took the remaining three pistons out today. Pictures of the pistons on my engine rebuild thread HERE
If anyone cares to have a look who might know why my engine is burning oil and causing carbon to build up on the pistons I'd be interested to hear your views. Cheers.