Took it in for tracking and both track rod ends were seized so todays job was to replace the track rods and ends both sides.
View attachment 245380
Hate to ask but where the steering rack arms seized? The track rod ends can be replaced leaving them in place.
View attachment 245381
View attachment 245382
Hopefully tomorrow will see tracking done and these fitted
View attachment 245383
Look after them tools Alan and they'll look after youToday I mainly finished the welding on the n/s of the red Bastid. Was worse than first thought when I removed the sill finisher had to do the inner sill, the inner bottom of the wheel arch and a bit of the outer sill. At least seam sealer and underseal were adequate as it's all hidden by the finisher and wheel arch liner. No time for photos @Mark Piercy because it started to rain and I had to clear my tools away. This is one I took before work commenced. I blame the side steps and finishers collecting mud, sheep sh1t and moisture. The o/s may be the same so more photo opportunities
Did you try a bit of heat on them?
I did guess you had a reason, from previous posts I know you are capable, wouldn't want anyone without experience to think that was how to change the track rod ends.Didn't see the point as both track rod ends were getting on a bit and one track rod was bent not worth all the messing to save one track rod.
Plus if I'm getting the tracking done and chucking £540 worth of rubber on it I may as well do a proper job
I'd just like to add that no Gaffa tape or Chinese takeaway trays were harmed in the rebuilding process @VoguetraderToday I mainly finished the welding on the n/s of the red Bastid. Was worse than first thought when I removed the sill finisher had to do the inner sill, the inner bottom of the wheel arch and a bit of the outer sill. At least seam sealer and underseal were adequate as it's all hidden by the finisher and wheel arch liner. No time for photos @Mark Piercy because it started to rain and I had to clear my tools away. This is one I took before work commenced. I blame the side steps and finishers collecting mud, sheep sh1t and moisture. The o/s may be the same so more photo opportunities
I did guess you had a reason, from previous posts I know you are capable, wouldn't want anyone without experience to think that was how to change the track rod ends.
Must admit I did that on my P38 when track rod ends U/S Angle grindered nuts off and replaced complete rod and ends in one fell swoop. Easiest way
What where you doing when you got caught? Gaffa tape and Chinese takeaway trays are the recommended repair materials by @Voguetrader
, we'll never let him live that down.
Tidy work monsieur.Today I mainly turned the car round to weld the o/s inner sill,just one more bit to do tomorrow, weather permitting. Photos for @Mark Piercy of the tank cradle repair and new exhaust.
Your welding your sills? On a 38'?Today I mainly turned the car round to weld the o/s inner sill,just one more bit to do tomorrow, weather permitting. Photos for @Mark Piercy of the tank cradle repair and new exhaust.
Yup,the Early black Bastid was in better nick,too much sheep sh1t and mud on the farm
Seems to have gone where the step mountings and end caps where. and it's señor.
Trick I learned on the Guzzi and an old Reliant. Bolting stuff up to alloy engines - torque it up. leave it over night, 1/4 turn back, torque it to the same value again. It will usually settle in that time and then afterwards seal better. The Guzzi would go from 32lb/ft torque to take another maybe 1/8 turn on the head studs. If you didn't do the overnight and torqued them at around 250 miles use they were barely over finger tight. Worth giving them another go over. I'll be doing the same with heads, manifolds and exhausts when Otto goes back together - torque, rest, re-torque.
Today I mainly turned the car round to weld the o/s inner sill,just one more bit to do tomorrow, weather permitting. Photos for @Mark Piercy of the tank cradle repair and new exhaust.
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