WURZAL THE LANDY
Active Member
- Posts
- 455
- Location
- north ayrshire
Ok off to the auto parts store see what they have in stock.
What did you do with your Range Rover today
- Thread starter Dopey
- Start date
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- Posts
- 18,967
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Probably dirt. Just scratch about with a screwdriver until clean and then try again.
Musicmaker
Active Member
- Posts
- 346
- Location
- Glasgow, Scotland
My P38a has been behaving itself, not one bit of bother these past few months. I wait with baited breath 
wil2813
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,324
fitted new crank sensor + maf on the p38 thor today both bosch (£200 the pair ) not bad imo. runs nicey nicey now .. ive binned the chin+se maf which is prob a month old & scrap unless you like using loads of fuel & permanent fault codes.
.. ive binned the chin+se maf which is prob a month old & scrap unless you like using loads of fuel & permanent fault codes.
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,659
- Location
- south east london
Nothing another 1k trouble free miles have I just doomed my self ???
Have 3 major jobs to do this summer:
1. Stop spare wheel well filling with water.
2. Replace disks / pads and flexible hoses. Have all the parts ready for this.
3. Replace valley gasket because of oil leak.
Won't know if job 1 was a success yet as we have had no rain for a few days. Even after stripping out most of the interior in the load space I could not find a definitive reason for the water getting in. Sat in the back of the car during a thunderstorm with a torch looking for the leak. No joy.
Likely it's from the seal which was new just over a year ago so followed TB0011 to the letter. Also removed and refitted tail lights sealing them with silicone at the same time. Cleaned and repainted the wheel well as it was looking grubby. Adjusted the tailgate so it makes better contact with the seal. Sunroof drain tubes all checked etc.
Planning a few little jobs too like scuttle foam pad replacement, HEVAC bulbs, general servicing. Think the AC compressor clutch is duff now as got the book symbol the one and only time I tried to use the AC this year. Faultmate confirmed the error code to be compressor clutch. Bit more checking and I can see the clutch engage briefly then drop out. Cannot find just a replacement clutch so assume it's time for new compressor. That will have to wait till jobs 2 and 3 are complete.
1. Stop spare wheel well filling with water.
2. Replace disks / pads and flexible hoses. Have all the parts ready for this.
3. Replace valley gasket because of oil leak.
Won't know if job 1 was a success yet as we have had no rain for a few days. Even after stripping out most of the interior in the load space I could not find a definitive reason for the water getting in. Sat in the back of the car during a thunderstorm with a torch looking for the leak. No joy.
Likely it's from the seal which was new just over a year ago so followed TB0011 to the letter. Also removed and refitted tail lights sealing them with silicone at the same time. Cleaned and repainted the wheel well as it was looking grubby. Adjusted the tailgate so it makes better contact with the seal. Sunroof drain tubes all checked etc.
Planning a few little jobs too like scuttle foam pad replacement, HEVAC bulbs, general servicing. Think the AC compressor clutch is duff now as got the book symbol the one and only time I tried to use the AC this year. Faultmate confirmed the error code to be compressor clutch. Bit more checking and I can see the clutch engage briefly then drop out. Cannot find just a replacement clutch so assume it's time for new compressor. That will have to wait till jobs 2 and 3 are complete.
tarphenry
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,522
- Location
- bury lancs
Changed key fob,this afternoon,about 30 mins.(can stop sweating now)
- Posts
- 18,967
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
If you take a live trace of your EAS with the Nanocom I'll have a look. Checked mine over the weekend and all working well as far as I can see.
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,659
- Location
- south east london
Job 1 easy sunroof drains have blocked or come apart behind the B pillar
Job 2 nice and easybas you have the parts
Job 3 fairly straight forward but a lot to remove to do it but worth it in the end
Good luck with it iv had a leak free engine since doing mine
I have air going into the pump now, but when I put my finger over the intake, it is only a small amount (I think) I think wam said it should be really noticeable, and should really suck on your finger hard? well its not like that at all
- Posts
- 18,967
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Only ever tested the output. The output isn't that hard to stop but does require squeezing.
The tank was totally empty when I started, but once it filled up, it didn't take long to get to the ride height, and then to the top, so I think its ok? and it turned off when it was done, and then on again and off when level, so its doing what it should, I dont know how to test it anyway,
- Posts
- 18,967
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Sounds like it is probably working fine.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
No there should be a small suction, if there is none at all there is a problem. It however should blow past your finger from the outlet.
- Posts
- 18,967
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Probably the teflon seal on the piston. They do have brushes at the top. Tends to be the thermal switch that goes though. Can be replaced with a little soldering. Eventually the magents in the case wear down and then it is done for.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 18,611
- Location
- wirral and triquivijate
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 18,611
- Location
- wirral and triquivijate
