What did you do with your Range Rover today

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oil n filter change 10 min job

rear washer pump 20 mins trying to remove the fog light dont bother that last screw up there in the right hand corner is a pig so put the other 3 screws back in and reached up behind the fog lamo and gave the old pump a tug 30 second job, take the new pump out the box completly different refit old pump refill washer bottle fire off email to seller on ebay with a complaint correct pump ordered from different seller
 
This will give you an idea of what is inside the sensor.

Before cleaning up:-
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after cleaning up showing worn track on RH side:-
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This will give you an idea of what is inside the sensor.

Thanks. Helpful. Guaranteed to wear out/crack/decompose.

Like so many other systems on this beast it's just the wrong technology.
The correct technology would have been non-contact - Hall effect or LVDT/RVDT - which in quantity would have been either cheaper or comparable in price.

[RANT]Using resistance was just plain bloody lazy or ignorant. Probably both, given the state of the UK industry when it was designed.....[/RANT]
 
Wife left the lights on all night.

Removed flattened battery, charged battery, reconnected charged battery, waited 30 minutes for Key Code Lockout, entered EKA, set windows, set sunroof, sync'd both keys, started car, drove off.

I wasn't expecting that!

I love it when a plan comes together.
 
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Thanks. Helpful. Guaranteed to wear out/crack/decompose.

Like so many other systems on this beast it's just the wrong technology.
The correct technology would have been non-contact - Hall effect or LVDT/RVDT - which in quantity would have been either cheaper or comparable in price.

[RANT]Using resistance was just plain bloody lazy or ignorant. Probably both, given the state of the UK industry when it was designed.....[/RANT]
My preference would be solid state piezo strain gauge technology.
 
My preference would be solid state piezo strain gauge technology.

Several downsides that I can think of:-
Moisture sensitivity; probably ok if fully encapsulated but this can fail due to element flexure.
Charge amplifier needed - at least on the Kistler ones I've used. Set zero and zero drift can be an issue. Linearity can be an issue.
The piezo element by definition measures force applied upon it without deforming - so mechanical element can change characteristic over time.

All kinds of issues - I've done serious battle with most of these technologies when testing oil drilling tech..
Piezo's great for ultra high speed/high resolution (with suitable DAQ), and can be sensitive enough to detect a breath from ten metres away (tried it - amazed) - insane turndown ratios possible, but none of the examples I have met would survive a Landyzone users tender ministrations for too long. Things may well have changed of course in the seventeen years (arg) since I was doing this in anger!

LVDT & Hall effect have the advantage of no physical connection necessary between the static and the live element.

I'm seriously thinking (!) of creating a DIY LVDT (hand-wound, built with pipe and nails) and 4x PID loop (Cheap off ebay) replacement EAS controller - this would be less difficult than you might think....

I'm sane, honest......
 
Several downsides that I can think of:-
Moisture sensitivity; probably ok if fully encapsulated but this can fail due to element flexure.
Charge amplifier needed - at least on the Kistler ones I've used. Set zero and zero drift can be an issue. Linearity can be an issue.
The piezo element by definition measures force applied upon it without deforming - so mechanical element can change characteristic over time.

All kinds of issues - I've done serious battle with most of these technologies when testing oil drilling tech..
Piezo's great for ultra high speed/high resolution (with suitable DAQ), and can be sensitive enough to detect a breath from ten metres away (tried it - amazed) - insane turndown ratios possible, but none of the examples I have met would survive a Landyzone users tender ministrations for too long. Things may well have changed of course in the seventeen years (arg) since I was doing this in anger!

LVDT & Hall effect have the advantage of no physical connection necessary between the static and the live element.

I'm seriously thinking (!) of creating a DIY LVDT (hand-wound, built with pipe and nails) and 4x PID loop (Cheap off ebay) replacement EAS controller - this would be less difficult than you might think....

I'm sane, honest......
Can you repeat this post in English please.:confused::)
 
Several downsides that I can think of:-
Moisture sensitivity; probably ok if fully encapsulated but this can fail due to element flexure.
Charge amplifier needed - at least on the Kistler ones I've used. Set zero and zero drift can be an issue. Linearity can be an issue.
The piezo element by definition measures force applied upon it without deforming - so mechanical element can change characteristic over time.

All kinds of issues - I've done serious battle with most of these technologies when testing oil drilling tech..
Piezo's great for ultra high speed/high resolution (with suitable DAQ), and can be sensitive enough to detect a breath from ten metres away (tried it - amazed) - insane turndown ratios possible, but none of the examples I have met would survive a Landyzone users tender ministrations for too long. Things may well have changed of course in the seventeen years (arg) since I was doing this in anger!

LVDT & Hall effect have the advantage of no physical connection necessary between the static and the live element.

I'm seriously thinking (!) of creating a DIY LVDT (hand-wound, built with pipe and nails) and 4x PID loop (Cheap off ebay) replacement EAS controller - this would be less difficult than you might think....

I'm sane, honest......
I suspect, like a replacement HEVAC, that you would find creating a replacement EAS ECU difficult. The things you overlook may only become apparent when on the road.
The EAS ECU is very reliable, the height sensors are good for 100K miles, so I can't see the problem. The driver pack is another matter.
 
I suspect, like a replacement HEVAC, that you would find creating a replacement EAS ECU difficult.The things you overlook may only become apparent when on the road.

<from an inverted P38 in a ditch> "well I *thought* it worked like that.....

The EAS ECU is very reliable, the height sensors are good for 100K miles, so I can't see the problem.

I like re-engineering things for entertainment. I can't help it. OCD probably. Besides, it looks like my sensors are reaching end of life, and that's going to cost real money to fix. If I can do it with some tubes, a few nails and some op-amps that I already have, why not eh?

The driver pack is another matter.

Is that the set of solenoid driver transistors? That could be ruggedised I'm sure.... Do they fail a lot?
 
<from an inverted P38 in a ditch> "well I *thought* it worked like that.....



I like re-engineering things for entertainment. I can't help it. OCD probably. Besides, it looks like my sensors are reaching end of life, and that's going to cost real money to fix. If I can do it with some tubes, a few nails and some op-amps that I already have, why not eh?

I like to keep my P38 original.


Is that the set of solenoid driver transistors? That could be ruggedised I'm sure.... Do they fail a lot?

Bit more complicated than that, pick & hold for fast response. Easy enough to re-engineer. I'll do it when I have time with more up to date components.
They don't fail a lot but when they do it's a PITA. I've repaired 2, both on test at the moment.
 
They don't fail a lot but when they do it's a PITA.

Indeed. For me the issue is whether I can fix things in the field. I intend to keep this shed - and it's intended use is as a mobile beekeeping shed - and so I want to make things as simple as possible. Mayhaps removing the E from EAS will prove to be the solution in time....
I'll rarely be going more than a couple of miles, so ABS & TC are optional....

And so on.

I should have just bought a Series..... unbreakable.....
 
Indeed. For me the issue is whether I can fix things in the field. I intend to keep this shed - and it's intended use is as a mobile beekeeping shed - and so I want to make things as simple as possible. Mayhaps removing the E from EAS will prove to be the solution in time....
I'll rarely be going more than a couple of miles, so ABS & TC are optional....

And so on.

I should have just bought a Series..... unbreakable.....
:(Another P38 about to be ruined.:mad:
 
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