What did you do with your Range Rover today

rich28uk said:

Lovely disco 2, leather interior? Had one myself “landmark” edition/ spec, was a nice motor, mine had decent chassis but last 6 inches of outer sills had corroded so farther in law welded them. Decent engine to the td5. Not too bad to work on. Think it’s corrosion that kills them as mechanicals are decent and not hard to fix.

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No mate cloth. Its a proper base model, 5 seats from factory, no aircon i fùcking love it for it tho had a few tasteful mods - cruise control, folding mirrors, black headlining, the tints and alloys powdercoated. Its got a nice JVC head unit with reverse camera and proper Alko hitch. I might convert to 13pin as well

Compared to an l322 its soooo much easier to work on and having had a D2 and td5 110 I feel much more confident round it. And yeah, corrosion but thats much like anything else really and this one is solid i know my way around them as well so feel really confident I checked it over properly

I'll do a thread in for sale section and give forum members a chance to pilfer the best bits before I advertise elsewhere. Need to get axle stands back off me pal tho, we used a couple on his van in that pic of D2. Alternator and rad pack **** themselves but its done 300k so can be forgiven

1988smithy said:

Good insight, bit of a shame its got some good recent bits on it. Front air springs, hpfp, subframe bushes etc all done 2016/17. It'll make a good parts car to keep better ones going at least

Cheers man, you're good for morale must be a good one cuz the missus loves it as well!

Not too pained about the monetary loss tbh, I won't give a fùck when I'm in the ground so why let it get to me now!

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There is quite the market for 2nd hand l322 parts, my old employer parted a TD6 a few months ago and people were going at it like vultures, got a fair few quid I believe.

Good thing about D2's is the main gripe is rust and luckily its usually quite easy to repair.

Having had mine for 4yrs i'd check the area under the brake servo, a good light helps, just for rust in that area, very easily missed as the foam tends to hide it.




Gotta cut it out and weld it, one day!!

Sounds a good one, may not have plenty of toys but easier to work on and less to go wrong. Had mine a good while and biggest job I had to do was two door latches, seem a very common failure- quite pricey too. Oh and injector seals, but after that nothing but services.
Also had the most cup holders of any car, think it was two pop out, two in centre cubby lid, two in rear centre arm rear and two in boot for the other seats which did eat in to boot space.

Henry_b said:

There is quite the market for 2nd hand l322 parts, my old employer parted a TD6 a few months ago and people were going at it like vultures, got a fair few quid I believe.

Good thing about D2's is the main gripe is rust and luckily its usually quite easy to repair.

Having had mine for 4yrs i'd check the area under the brake servo, a good light helps, just for rust in that area, very easily missed.....

Gotta cut it out and weld it, one day!!

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I'll have a shufti cheers theres very light surface rust, almost just a bit of dust, on the inner arches under the bonnet, already got the rust converter and paint bit awkward on the abs side.

My old one was starting to go there and rear arches. Checked mot on it the other day and chassis is starting to corrode, it was really good when I had it 5 years ago so looks like it's been neglected a bit

Sorry, starting to become a discovery thread!

rich28uk said:

Sounds a good one, may not have plenty of toys but easier to work on and less to go wrong. Had mine a good while and biggest job I had to do was two door latches, seem a very common failure- quite pricey too. Oh and injector seals, but after that nothing but services.
Also had the most cup holders of any car, think it was two pop out, two in centre cubby lid, two in rear centre arm rear and two in boot for the other seats which did eat in to boot space.

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I've got one rear door opens from inside but not out! Did 3 of the door latches in my old one minor thing tho. Injector seals on the 110...

Yep, the p.o replaced the dash bit for the slidey cup holders, got none on the console but have got the armrest ones. Rear seat doesn't even have the fold down armrest and obvs no jump seats but not even the storage bins either, proper bargain basement. Its like a posh defender tbh! Toying with searching for the boot storage bins but they're all proper ropey and silly money

1988smithy said:

I'll have a shufti cheers theres very light surface rust, almost just a bit of dust, on the inner arches under the bonnet, already got the rust converter and paint bit awkward on the abs side.

My old one was starting to go there and rear arches. Checked mot on it the other day and chassis is starting to corrode, it was really good when I had it 5 years ago so looks like it's been neglected a bit

Sorry, starting to become a discovery thread!

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Oh yes slight surface around the arches is near enough a guarantee on the D2, shame about your old motor.

Neglect a Disco and its a world of pain, good thing about your new one is the mint chassis.

Jut dunk the old girl in a bath of Dinitrol and you'll be alright

Henry_b said:

Oh yes slight surface around the arches is near enough a guarantee on the D2, shame about your old motor.

Neglect a Disco and its a world of pain, good thing about your new one is the mint chassis.

Jut dunk the old girl in a bath of Dinitrol and you'll be alright

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I'm gonna keep the bilt hamber treatment up easier to maintain than fix!

Thanks for support lads, appreciate it

1988smithy said:

Thanks for support lads, appreciate it

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Fellow Landy sufferers, gotta keep the morale up

Flossie said:

Scary clatter for a few seconds though which I've never had before.

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Be sure to prime the oil filter before bolting cap back on (fill it up). May take few seconds for red oil light to go out but no clattering.

RangeRoller dt said:

Be sure to prime the oil filter before bolting cap back on (fill it up). May take few seconds for red oil light to go out but no clattering.

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This is her 4th filter change, never had clatter before. The only differance is I always do a hot engine drain and refill and I don't get the high idle cold start, the engine was stone cold on this occasion so the revs were much higher.
I shall fill the housing up in future though! The rattle wasn't pleasant even though it was only 2 or 3 secs.

Personally, I always fill the housing.

really need to do something about the icy cold coming out of the centre console rear vents

not sure where to start, any ideas? not sure if its the temperature dial thats broken, if i press the override button (under the TC button) then the rear vents start to blow warm. on another press, the vents stay warm and dont go back to icy cold

I'm confused

kermit_rr said:

really need to do something about the icy cold coming out of the centre console rear vents

not sure where to start, any ideas? not sure if its the temperature dial thats broken, if i press the override button (under the TC button) then the rear vents start to blow warm. on another press, the vents stay warm and dont go back to icy cold

I'm confused

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Sounds like the override button fixes it just drive it kermy! It could be a lot worse trust me

1988smithy said:

Sounds like the override button fixes it just drive it kermy! It could be a lot worse trust me

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it just failed MOT.. on emissions.. what a surprise given no DPF...
I'm livid, to say the least

kermit_rr said:

it just failed MOT.. on emissions.. what a surprise given no DPF...
I'm livid, to say the least

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Ffs, whats the plan? Any recourse with dealer you had it off? They've sold you an illegal car surely

kermit_rr said:

it just failed MOT.. on emissions.. what a surprise given no DPF...
I'm livid, to say the least

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Thats just crap. Did it have a fresh 12 MOT when you brought it?
If it did I would be looking at legal stuff, trading standards or the like. But I guess the first phone call should be to the dealer/seller.
Its difficult to prove you didnt do it, but then why would you if the car ran fine .

I really have no other suggestion.

J

marjon said:

Thats just crap. Did it have a fresh 12 MOT when you brought it?
If it did I would be looking at legal stuff, trading standards or the like. But I guess the first phone call should be to the dealer/seller.
Its difficult to prove you didnt do it, but then why would you if the car ran fine .

I really have no other suggestion.

J

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@kermit_rr didn't you take it back for dpf work at one point?

1988smithy said:

Ffs, whats the plan? Any recourse with dealer you had it off? They've sold you an illegal car surely

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marjon said:

Thats just crap. Did it have a fresh 12 MOT when you brought it?
If it did I would be looking at legal stuff, trading standards or the like. But I guess the first phone call should be to the dealer/seller.
Its difficult to prove you didnt do it, but then why would you if the car ran fine .

I really have no other suggestion.

J

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plate value is 0.54, my MOT;
accel. 1 - 2.33, 2 - 0.84, 3 - 0.81, 4 - 0.76, 5 - 0.77, 6 - 0.75 with mean value 0.75 and 0.01 drift

tester says put some cleaner thru and rag it, see if it passes if i take it in straight after a run

yes, they've sold an illegal car, but prove it? legal route is something i 'should' do, but i expect it will end up costing me a lot of money. more than the cost of a second hand, or even new DPF?

1988smithy said:

@kermit_rr didn't you take it back for dpf work at one point?

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no, i tried to take it back because the tensioner pulley was knackered