What did you do with your Range Rover today

mutsnutz said:

its staying on while at tickover and running

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Correct oil and level ?must be level cold car
If ok wire to oil pressure switch loose from vibrations or corroded

Oil pressure switch

Oil pump pressure test

Crank bearings

You choose

In that order

Grit Valve said:

Correct oil and level ?must be level cold car
If ok wire to oil pressure switch loose from vibrations or corroded

Oil pressure switch

Oil pump pressure test

Crank bearings

You choose

In that order

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would any of them make the tickover be as high as it is ??? just trying to tie faults together

mutsnutz said:

would any of them make the tickover be as high as it is ??? just trying to tie faults together

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Unless the tickover is so erratic that's its almost stalling it could make the light flicker but unless you get it running constant
Its going to be hard to establish pressures so tick over and as said
GL

Grit Valve said:

Unless the tickover is so erratic that's its almost stalling it could make the light flicker but unless you get it running constant
Its going to be hard to establish pressures so tick over and as said
GL

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Think this is the guy who had the crank pulley bolt come loose. Not tightening that properly is fatal as the oil pump drive is nipped to crank by pulley and sprocket. You can't run with that loose you have no oil pressure. Looks like he has done some terminal damage.

wammers said:

Think this is the guy who had the crank pulley bolt come loose. Not tightening that properly is fatal as the oil pump drive is nipped to crank by pulley and sprocket. You can't run with that loose you have no oil pressure. Looks like he has done some terminal damage.

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Oooooo Dear

Hi warmers I mean wammers

Still mooching I see

Love ya x

Grit Valve said:

Oooooo Dear

Hi warmers I mean wammers

Still mooching I see

Love ya x

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Are you taking over from Landygirl?

wammers said:

Are you taking over from Landygirl?

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???
But yes we shouldn't chat any where if that's what you mean !

wammers said:

Are you taking over from Landygirl?

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I think he's coming out wammers

It's me I am the one it's seems that the crank sensor has been chewed up the and timing seems out when the cam is at Tdc the timing pin is not locking in place it seems sloppy it goes in and hits something tinny

Took she for an MOT and came back with a pass, no advises. Happy days

replaced the alternator.. 40mins start to finish... with swearing.

P38 passed its MoT today, can't believe how happy I feel after the stress of waiting for the result

ukadamwest said:

replaced the alternator.. 40mins start to finish... with swearing.

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Why was the brew you had for twenty minutes cold.

Just put two new front shock absorbers on, easy peesy.

Why was the brew you had for twenty minutes cold.

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Cheeky Git !

The failed one was a pattern part so the connectors were at a different position so couldn't lift and turn the alternator to get a 10mm on the back, hence the effing and blinding and contortions. The replacement was oem part and went in without problem..

Didnt take the fan off either. no need.

Stuck it on the drive till she comes out of her hissy fit and started work on the slitty motor

Put new rear shock absorbers on, new ARB drop links and bushes and got crap in my eye doing it.:mooning:

Put fuel in. £102 later I pull off the forecourt.

Hairy said:

Put new rear shock absorbers on, new ARB drop links and bushes and got crap in my eye doing it.:mooning:

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You really should wear trousers when working on the car

Bix said:

Put fuel in. £102 later I pull off the forecourt.

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Hm, yeah. I've got an orange light appearing every few days and I have to do the same.