What did you do with your Range Rover today

Threw some water at mine yesterday to get some dirt off it but after driving through what seemed like a cloud burst this morning returning from shopping I might as well not bothered it`s nearly as bad again !

kds said:

Friend of mine has one with the 8 speed and unless your right foot is on the floor you will hardly notice the box change.

Click to expand...

I certainly notice the first couple of changes, more so if I'm light on the throttle

kermit_rr said:

Never really noticed, but it's the torque converter on the 8 speed only used while stationary?
It's occurred to me I've never seen the revs'flare' as you would with an old fashioned auto box
Ie driving along at say 30 mph.. accelerate it decelerate and the revs match speed, like a manual box.
Is that how it's supposed to be?

Click to expand...

Like the p38 has a torque converter lockup on 3rd and 4th the later ones it's lockup is on every gear. If you like..

kermit_rr said:

Never really noticed, but it's the torque converter on the 8 speed only used while stationary?
It's occurred to me I've never seen the revs'flare' as you would with an old fashioned auto box
Ie driving along at say 30 mph.. accelerate it decelerate and the revs match speed, like a manual box.
Is that how it's supposed to be?

Click to expand...

Gearbox software has improved a lot over the years and so have the mechanicals, although they look so complex now you need to be a gearbox guru to understand it all. Plus, the TDV8 has so much insane torque the engine barely notices the load.

Grrrrrr said:

Gearbox software has improved a lot over the years and so have the mechanicals, although they look so complex now you need to be a gearbox guru to understand it all. Plus, the TDV8 has so much insane torque the engine barely notices the load.

Click to expand...

The other day i tried to drive it hard, give it a blast so to speak.. it barely lifted a brow

Mark Piercy said:

Like the p38 has a torque converter lockup on 3rd and 4th the later ones it's lockup is on every gear. If you like..

Click to expand...

Thinking i need to do an oil change sooner than later.. if it's a diy job on the drive..

kermit_rr said:

Thinking i need to do an oil change sooner than later.. if it's a diy job on the drive..

Click to expand...

I'd have a look under the pan, I'm not sure if there is Cross member to remove.

kermit_rr said:

Thinking i need to do an oil change sooner than later.. if it's a diy job on the drive..

Click to expand...

You talking gearbox? did they not do it when you brought it? thought you said they were going to service it.

J

kermit_rr said:

Thinking i need to do an oil change sooner than later.. if it's a diy job on the drive..

Click to expand...

Looks DIYable on the drive to me. Look out for the special LR tools required though, also the need to discard this and that? maybe they are plastic plugs, or they don't trust LR mech these days to change an O ring

Temp seems important, but doesn't seem to need engine running for final level check.
Make sure you use the right oil, It wont be cheap.

J

marjon said:

You talking gearbox? did they not do it when you brought it? thought you said they were going to service it.

J

Click to expand...

I got a refund. Don't trust them to shear a bolt properly never mind use the wrong fluid

Was having a play with the nanocom and there was a code for the purge valve circuit open so had a look under the bonnet and sure enough found it was unplugged, plugged it back in cleared the code and it stayed off.

In the short bit of use it seems to run smoother I would say. Only had a small drive though not been able to open up the taps so to speak.

Seems to have mostly sorted the smoking too. I reckon it must have been overfueling with it disconnected as rave seems to states that it could affect the fuel map like that if the valve itself was stuck.

Might explain that strong fuel smell I was talking about a while back too. Though that had pretty much eased off after about a week in fairness

Managed 26.9mpg over 400 miles brim to brim! 90 percent motorway this time.
Compoota sed 29.something!! Lying tart

Fixed the rear washer - eventually extracted the sprayer from the tailgate, the nozzle came out of the tube much easier. Flow was excellent without that in so used a dental tool to pop the ball out and thoroughly clean the fittings. Loads of crud trapped. All back together and working perfectly.
Checked the auto box level while jacking him to extended, so I could then do a patch on the worst blow on the middle box. Nice wad of foil and gun gum laminate (8 layers I think) under the wrap to try to keep the noise level down while waiting for the new exhaust parts.
Couldn't find anything major with the cruise control - certainly not finding any leaks across to the dump on the brake pedal. But there were some slight cracks and looseness on the hose at one joint so I have taped over it solidly to see if it makes a difference. Time will tell.

I finally completed the top-side works for my little refresh project on my 1999 4l V8 p38. Car has been off the road for a couple of years and don't have any history on it past 2015. I replaced rocker cover seals and sealed off where an LPG system was fitted. In the process I also replaced:

• Inlet gaskets except for valley gasket
• Plugs
• HT leads
• Injector o-rings
• Aux drive belt
• Left washer jet on bonnet

Today I tightened up the last bits and prepared engine for the next steps. Next I'll fill it up with coolant, let it run with an engine flush and drain the oil. Then I'll tackle the sump gasket.

kermit_rr said:

Managed 26.9mpg over 400 miles brim to brim! 90 percent motorway this time.
Compoota sed 29.something!! Lying tart

Click to expand...

It could have said NO!

Khemitude said:

Was having a play with the nanocom and there was a code for the purge valve circuit open so had a look under the bonnet and sure enough found it was unplugged, plugged it back in cleared the code and it stayed off.

In the short bit of use it seems to run smoother I would say. Only had a small drive though not been able to open up the taps so to speak.

Seems to have mostly sorted the smoking too. I reckon it must have been overfueling with it disconnected as rave seems to states that it could affect the fuel map like that if the valve itself was stuck.

Might explain that strong fuel smell I was talking about a while back too. Though that had pretty much eased off after about a week in fairness

Click to expand...

PO has clearly been tinkering.

There's a canister that collects vapour from the tank and then opens during running and burns it. I assume there's a vent to air should it fail which is probably what you were smelling.

Grrrrrr said:

PO has clearly been tinkering.

There's a canister that collects vapour from the tank and then opens during running and burns it. I assume there's a vent to air should it fail which is probably what you were smelling.

Click to expand...

Yes very likely! I wouldn't have left that disconnected though, at least not intentionally

Thinking of checking the autobox level today.

Am I correct in thinking, it should be done with the engine running and moving it through the gears, I assume both high and low range? Then crack off the filler plug and if its at the right level it should flow out? I assume you keep it running while checking too so its not running it through the gears and then engine off and then check.

Yes keep it running, go through all the gears, it should just weep from the fill plug

kermit_rr said:

Yes keep it running, go through all the gears, it should just weep from the fill plug

Click to expand...

Thanks, assuming it is low I guess its top up till it dribbles then move it through the gears again and check its still dribbling and if not add some more?