What are the best mods/upgrades/changes that you have made to your Defender?

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Dash leds
Snorkel
Zu Alloys
Bullbar
Home made centre console (raptor eat ya heart out )
LightBar
Dog guard.
Twin battery setup with separate 15way fuse box for aux battery.
GRP Bonnet
100% brighter headlamp bulbs.
HD sumo steering bar. (forgot about that.)
600Watt invertor
FT7800 2m/70cm ham Radio
Changed sides for ones with windows in. Now I can see when emerging from a junction.
Swingaway Rear Wheel carrier
Storage shelf across vehicle fitted above the Dog guard.
CB.
Cubby Box.
Window Guards to back door & rear side windows.
 
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Blue LED bulbs for the dash, sound proofing the seat box/bulkhead, Silent Coat 4mm and then 6mm closed cell foam with the Wright Offroad matting on top, plus SC and foam in the doors too, can actually speak normally to my pax now! At some point I'll do the floors but wanted to check it's at least reasonably watertight after making a few adjustments! Took the tools off the bonnet, I was never going to use them, checker-plated the holes up:
















 
Gwyn Lewis's full suspension/heavy duty prop shafts
Pressbrake rear crossmember
ARB winch bumper with Warn winch
Mach 5 wheels
BFG MT K2's
Soft top
Zeibart
Hi lift jack
Straight thru exhaust
Awl Grip boat paint

Safari snorkel and wading kits to be installed.
 
Blue LED bulbs for the dash, sound proofing the seat box/bulkhead, Silent Coat 4mm and then 6mm closed cell foam with the Wright Offroad matting on top, plus SC and foam in the doors too, can actually speak normally to my pax now! At some point I'll do the floors but wanted to check it's at least reasonably watertight after making a few adjustments! Took the tools off the bonnet, I was never going to use them, checker-plated






How did the sound proofing go? I am thinking of similar for my series.
 
In order of my preference:
1.TD5 alive stage 1 remap
2. 1.2:1 ratio transfer box (Disco spec)
3. soundproofing
4. Rear speakers and mounting trim
5. Silicone wiper blades
6. egr bypass
7. homemade access hatch in floor for fuel pump

Things I've done and since undone!
1. straight through eggsause... sounded awesome, but undid all my work on soundproofing!... tried cherry bomb - still too loud inside.
2. 265/75R16 tyres... buggers to balance, and pull too much when you hit a deep puddle on the road...look the business, but wish I had waited until tyre shop had 235's in stock....anyone want to swop!... currently on my original 205's

If/when I can afford
1. Pressbrake rear crossmember
2. larger intercooler... worth it... better fuel economy???
3. ECU extension loom
 
In order of my preference:


If/when I can afford
1. Pressbrake rear crossmember
2. larger intercooler... worth it... better fuel economy???
3. ECU extension loom


Better get the Pressbrake crossmember really soon! few more weeks and you wont be able to.


BTW, Larger intercooler,
whats the better one and is it a direct replacement without any mods.?

Thanks
 
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Better get the Pressbrake crossmember really soon! few more weeks and you wont be able to.


BTW, Larger intercooler,
whats the better one and is it a direct replacement without any mods.?

Thanks

Hopefully 'Pressbrake' will remain in the game for a while longer...

Intercoolers seem to be a fairly straightforward job... certainly on the TD5 where it is already in front of the radiator... upgrades just seem bigger to fill the space available - I've not done one, so stand to be corrected... The TD5 Alive kit has impressed me....
 
How did the sound proofing go? I am thinking of similar for my series.

It turned out really nicely, I think that the silent coat and the foam were well worth the effort. Test fitting the WOR matting without them it was a little loose, now it fits snugly and doesn't 'flap' at all. I got them from Car Audio Direct, their ebay store has slightly cheaper prices and free shipping when compared to their website. I used Silent Coat Extra (4mm) and Silent Coat Noise Isolator (6mm), anything more and the matting probably won't fit. The one exception is the floor sections, which I've yet to do, but plan on using the 10mm Noise Isolator, having a look at how the matting sits over the floor panels at the moment it should fit nicely.

Noise wise it's made a massive difference. Beforehand I only had plastic door panels which meant 97dB at 60mph on the motorway! Now it's down to 81dB, so still loud but nowhere near as deafening and given the logarithmic scale quite a large reduction in energy. I made those readings with a cheap phone app so can't say whether it's accurate but the perceived difference is massive. All the top and middle clatter has gone and I'm left with the lower diesel sounds, rather how the old black cabs sounded from the back seat! Around town I can speak at a normal level to passengers with no problems. I haven't done behind the dashboard, the floors or around the rear bulkhead yet either, let alone the rear tub, hopefully there'll be some dry days this summer so I can finish the job with a Schultz spray in the wheel arches too.

As everyone else who has soundproofed their defender will attest, it will never be like a modern car, but as there isn't much soundproofing in there to start with, you can make a big difference. My approach was to use the silent coat to increase the panel mass to take their resonant frequency below human hearing and also to reduce direct transmission. Then I used the foam to reduce the airborne transmission, it also had the effect of stopping various squeaks and rattles. The WOR matting then gives it another barrier as well as being a good looking and hard wearing cover for the foam which can be a little delicate on corners. It took me three days to do the silent coat, foam and matting including removing, repainting and refitting the seats frames. I didn't test the matting by itself but it's a fairly comprehensive kit and really joins together nicely. If you were just looking to do that then I'm sure you'd notice the difference. I'm aiming to do some expeditions in the future so wanted to go the whole hog to reduce fatigue and to be able to hear the stereo I'll eventually install.

I used lots of Stanley blades to cut the matting, the silent coat and the foam (which was gloriously easy after cutting the other two!) and also a drill with various bits for the seat bolts and slave socket etc. I did try a Dremel but it seemed to just melt the matting.

All in all, definitely worth it and although it's a lot of work, you're rewarded with a tangible difference. Just make sure you have some beers in the fridge for each evening, makes it all the more enjoyable!
 
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