Well the k seal didnt work...

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Chrisrp

New Member
Posts
7
Got the range rover back from gretton motors, he put some k seal in it cuz he thinks the block is porus (although seems very vague on what the problem is and what to do about it)

Drove it around steadily for abour 48hours then pop. I was at the traffic lights temp gauge bang in the middle then whoosh pop steam. I opened the bonnet and there is water everywhere I think the radiator is now fooked also because when I try and refill it it just drips out the bottom!! :mad:

So I need a new engine. How much am I looking for labour costs ball park? Obviously I'd like the cheapest soloution but on the flip side I dont want to be arsing around with this again so it needs to last the life of the car within reason.

Is it hard to take the engine out, when you've only changed brake pads on a mk2 astra before.....:rolleyes:?
 
the 3.5 is different in a few subtle ways i think.

ideally you need a new block, either a good one from the new ones that were produced such as the ones from rpi

or, reliner your block this type of thing.


or secon hand block or engine!!

there are others on this ebay search

this fella often has engines in and other parts, i have used him and he is honest and genuine!

again there are others!

the best method in my opinion is flanged liners.as technically the liners cannot slip once clamped between the block and head! the only way water can get past the liner is into the crank case, and if this happens i would hope irontite would seal this leak. every option involves varying cost and work.

the work is easy enough if you dont mind getting stuck in! i have a early 4.0 block ready to go on ebay but it needs new piston rings at 15 quid a piston, it was burning excessive oil so would only be sold for spares or repair and as a defective part needing overhaul and not guarenteed!. i only want £80 to cover what i paid for it. but you have a knackered block already!!!

i did mone a few times and its discussed in this thread! its a bit of a monster ramble but i'm told a few people read it a bit like a docu-soap and found it usefull to some degree, once again thats not an exhaustive list, there are other threads on the subject and a raft of info on google

good luck

gav!
 
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i dunno if you can see the holes, get the engine number, and post it, x out the last two digits, and i should be able to tell you!
 
so can I use the block you have gav? with the rest of the bits off my knackered engine?
Whats this engine on the pallet like? thanks
 
i wouldnt recomend my block mate cos you will have to re-ring it, the two blocks i have are really only fit for a good overhaul, mainly of use to kit car owners etc!!

the engine on a pallet, i have no idea what condition its in so couldnt verify that, but if the engine is good then its an option.

as said above, the only sure fire way to get a good one is new or flanged!!!

it all depends on how much you want to spend and how long your gonna keep the car. mines turned into a labour of love as you can imagine but i have no intention of selling it so dont need to make a profut. therefore its a money pit!!! lol!!!

for flenged liners look at around 100 quid per pot!!!

turner eng. have em, i would plump for the flanged type! or at that price you can buy several second hand engines and run em till they break!!!
 
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When supplies of the 2138cc Triu mph four-cylinder engine dried up in the late 60s, Morgan were left without a high-performance engine for their flagship Plus 4 model. Help was on the horizon, however, in the form of Rover's all-alloy 3.5-litre V-eight derived from a discarded Buick design of the early 60s and recently introduced in the big P5B saloon and coupe.

so, is it the 3.5, 3.9 or 4.0?

The real differences are:

- The 3.9 has the provisions like the 4.0/4.6 litre for the crossbolts but they have not been drilled.

- The 3.9 has the smaller main journals from the 3.5 while the 4.0 version has the same journals as the 4.6 litre.

- The 4.0 crank has a longer nose.

- The 3.9 has the concentric oil pump but coupled with standard distributor the 4.0 has a distributorless system and thus no hole for a distributor.

- The 4.0 uses longer rods, lighter and shorter pistons.

- The 3.9 had the 14CUX 'hotwire' fuel injection. The 4.0 has the Lucas 'GEMS' engine management system

- Because of the way the fueling and ignition is set up, the 4.0 has knock sensors and the 3.9 does not.

- the 4.0 puts out 186.4 bhp and the 3.9 puts out 190.4 bhp.

differences between 3.9 and 4.0/4.6


1. The 4.0/4.6 crankshafts are also longer to drive the new oil pump
2. A new connecting rod design was used for the 4.0/4.6. They are made from forged steel and now have balance pads on both the small and big ends; the screw-in bolts retaining the caps are of a more robust design and are manufactured to extremely fine tolerances. The 4.0-litre engine uses a rod 1 55.2 mm in length, and the 4.6-litre is 149.7 mm with a55.5 mm big end bearing diameter, the older version having a 50.8 mm big end bearing. The increase in length was done to reduce the angularity of the rods in the engine, thus reducing vibration. The small end size has been increased from 22.2 mm to 24mm.
3. The pistons are also new and are a common design between the 4.0 and 4.6-litre engines. The capacity of the bowl in the piston crown varies slightly between the two engines (4.0-litre, 13.23 ccl4.
6-litre, 22.29 cc) to determine the compression ratio. To maintain equality of material thickness on the piston crown they are different castings. Having said that, the compression ratios are the same for both engines --9.35:1 although lower 8.2:1 compression pistons are available. The original 3.5/3.9-litre engines have pistons 80.9 mm long overall, with a compression height (or crown height) of 49.5 mm, while the longer stroke 4.2-litre engine uses a piston 72.85 mm long with a compression height of 45 mm.
4. The 4.0/4.6-litre engines have a shorter piston of 66.6 mm, with a compression height of only 35.9 mm.
5. The 4.04.6 gudgeon (or wrist) pin diameters have been increased and they also have a gudgeon pin offset. The 4.2-litre engine was the first production Rover V8 to use this feature, but on the 4.0/4 6
litre engines it has been increased from the 0.55 mm of the 4.2-litre to 0.60 mm. The reason for this offset is to produce a slight side loading on the piston at TDC, thus eliminating piston slap all part of the infinite attention to design detail by the Rover engineers in their quest for refinement.
6. The 4.0/4.6 cylinder blocks have been made significantly stronger by the addition of stiffening ribs (taken from the Sd1 Vitesse) in key areas (along the block sides near the main bearing webs, for instance) and, more importantly, both 4.0 and 4.6 litre blocks now have cross-bolted main bearing caps. Of course Rover have produced cross-bolted blocks before, but they were special items and expensive, one of the reasons being that the main caps had to be individually ground to match the block. The new blocks have this feature productionised, although they are now a press fit in the block. The cap material has also been upgraded from grey to SG iron.
7. The interior profile of the 4.0/4.6 block has been altered to make room for the redesigned crankshaft with its bigger bearings and bigger counterweights. The cylinder liners are 5 mm shorter and the oil
pick-up from the sump no longer fits into the block casting, from where the oil made its way to the pump via a drilled gallery; the pick-up on the new engine.
8. There are two new crankshafts, one of 71 mm stroke for the 4.0-litre and one of 82 mm for the 4.6-litre version.
9. The main bearing size has gone up from 58.4 mm to 63.5 mm and the counterweights are larger, although of the same number as before. These new crankshafts will not fit into older engines because there is insufficient room for the bigger counterweight to rotate inside the block. The stroke of the 4.0-litre crank is identical to the old 3.9-litre, as is the cylinder bore of 94 mm, so the capacity of
these two engines is the same.

the b usually describes the fuel system on these engines although i'm not sure on the morgan lumps!


have that ya bastid!!!:D:D:D
 
the 3.5 is different in a few subtle ways i think.

ideally you need a new block, either a good one from the new ones that were produced such as the ones from rpi

or, reliner your block this type of thing.


or secon hand block or engine!!

there are others on this ebay search

this fella often has engines in and other parts, i have used him and he is honest and genuine!

again there are others!

the best method in my opinion is flanged liners.as technically the liners cannot slip once clamped between the block and head! the only way water can get past the liner is into the crank case, and if this happens i would hope irontite would seal this leak. every option involves varying cost and work.

the work is easy enough if you dont mind getting stuck in! i have a early 4.0 block ready to go on ebay but it needs new piston rings at 15 quid a piston, it was burning excessive oil so would only be sold for spares or repair and as a defective part needing overhaul and not guarenteed!. i only want £80 to cover what i paid for it. but you have a knackered block already!!!

i did mone a few times and its discussed in this thread! its a bit of a monster ramble but i'm told a few people read it a bit like a docu-soap and found it usefull to some degree, once again thats not an exhaustive list, there are other threads on the subject and a raft of info on google

good luck

gav!

ere gav,you nickin my contacts now eh.:D:D
 
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